BOSS BEST IN SHOW SYSYEM
- Thread starter Bull6791
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MisterSnoop
Member
The G9 is a good beginner machine. That's what I started with. Switching to a 5" backing plate is something that a lot of people do. If you have a lot of curvy areas to polish as well, you may want to get the G8 too.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Bull8791- Griot's has a number of different kits...which of their combos are you looking at?
As noted, the G9 is a good unit, especially with a 5" plate. Unless you're planning to do a big correction (aggressive polishing to remove scratches/swirls/etc.) I'd recommend you try an All-In-One product as the "polish" and then something durable for the "waxing" (often referred to as "LSP"ing as in "Last Step Product"). Getting more involved that that would be a whole 'nother discussion!
As noted, the G9 is a good unit, especially with a 5" plate. Unless you're planning to do a big correction (aggressive polishing to remove scratches/swirls/etc.) I'd recommend you try an All-In-One product as the "polish" and then something durable for the "waxing" (often referred to as "LSP"ing as in "Last Step Product"). Getting more involved that that would be a whole 'nother discussion!
MisterSnoop
Member
The BOSS creams are great as well. They make it easy to match up pads to the creams with the color coding. You're free to use whatever polishes or compounds you want with the Griot's machines.
Accumulator
Well-known member
What about doing a one-step with one of Griot's All-in-One ("AIO") products? With that approach, once you've finished with the "polishing step" you can quit because the AIO will leave some protection behind. Then you could add something more durable after the next regular wash.
I would not underestimate how big a job the first time can be. The GG Ceramic AIO is, IME, very user-friendly but I'd still allocate a full day minimum to doing that first-time job.
Keeping things simple and manageable will help ensure that it doesn't change from a "new interesting, maybe even fun, experience in car ownership" to a "grueling chore you can't wait to finish".
I would not underestimate how big a job the first time can be. The GG Ceramic AIO is, IME, very user-friendly but I'd still allocate a full day minimum to doing that first-time job.
Keeping things simple and manageable will help ensure that it doesn't change from a "new interesting, maybe even fun, experience in car ownership" to a "grueling chore you can't wait to finish".
Accumulator
Well-known member
Bull6791- It's pretty inconceivable that you'd do any damage with something like Griot's Ceramic AIO 
But I sincerely commend you for thinking along those lines, you're smart to take it easy and not "polish away too much clearcoat", a danger that some people don't take seriously.
If anything, you'll wish the GG CAIO were more aggressive, so it'd do more correction faster. That's quite common when people first start doing correction, but when the concern is doing damage you'll be very safe.
A G9, with the orange Griot's Correcting pads and CAIO strikes me as a great way to get started with this stuff and I'm quite confident that you wouldn't regret going that route.
You didn't mention what kind of vehicle you'll be working on...some have very hard/soft clearcoats, but unless you're bound and determined to achieve absolute perfection, that shouldn't really be an issue. E.g., BMW's Jet Black is always inexplicably soft...*VERY* soft (enough so that it's a genuine factor to consider), while some white vehicles are very, *VERY* hard (which just means it's harder to get scratches out, but white looks good when it's polished even with some residual marring).
But I sincerely commend you for thinking along those lines, you're smart to take it easy and not "polish away too much clearcoat", a danger that some people don't take seriously.If anything, you'll wish the GG CAIO were more aggressive, so it'd do more correction faster. That's quite common when people first start doing correction, but when the concern is doing damage you'll be very safe.
A G9, with the orange Griot's Correcting pads and CAIO strikes me as a great way to get started with this stuff and I'm quite confident that you wouldn't regret going that route.
You didn't mention what kind of vehicle you'll be working on...some have very hard/soft clearcoats, but unless you're bound and determined to achieve absolute perfection, that shouldn't really be an issue. E.g., BMW's Jet Black is always inexplicably soft...*VERY* soft (enough so that it's a genuine factor to consider), while some white vehicles are very, *VERY* hard (which just means it's harder to get scratches out, but white looks good when it's polished even with some residual marring).
Sizzle Chest
Well-known member
Really like their BOSS creams. Machine is good too!
This is just my own opinion: being a beginner and having never done paint correction or machine polishing before I think the things to focus on would be
Getting to know manufacturers paint: which is soft or hard
Knowing how to assess the area: to know what pad/product combination to use. Also not to go to deep and wreck clear coat.
For me to be able to look at scratches or swirls or what ever you call them and to automatically know what kind of paint it is, how deep the problem is and what pad/product combination I am going to use. I know it takes time, but as a beginner that stuff is the most important to me and that is what I am working on. Learning the machine is secondary and that to will come the more you use the machine.
Getting to know manufacturers paint: which is soft or hard
Knowing how to assess the area: to know what pad/product combination to use. Also not to go to deep and wreck clear coat.
For me to be able to look at scratches or swirls or what ever you call them and to automatically know what kind of paint it is, how deep the problem is and what pad/product combination I am going to use. I know it takes time, but as a beginner that stuff is the most important to me and that is what I am working on. Learning the machine is secondary and that to will come the more you use the machine.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
As Accumulator noted (sort of), just polishing may be a great result for you, even if you don't remove all the swirls and scratches.
How old is your Corolla? Do you have any pictures of the condition of the paint? If you're concerned about where to start as far as pad/product combination, age and/or pictures may help us to guide you.
How old is your Corolla? Do you have any pictures of the condition of the paint? If you're concerned about where to start as far as pad/product combination, age and/or pictures may help us to guide you.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Sizzle Chest- I hope I share your opinion of the GG creams as I plan to use them next time I have to do a major correction (well, in addition to M101).
Bull6791- IIRC, Toyotas are still on the "somewhat soft normal" range with regard to hardness. Griot's used a black Toyota for their video demo of the CAIO and the suggested product/pad combo seemed good for that paint (and I bet they had that in mind when they chose that for the demo).
How long can the car be off the road/kept clean and dry while you do this? Keep in mind that first you wash it, do any decontamination that's required, and *then* start work with the polisher.
Bull6791- IIRC, Toyotas are still on the "somewhat soft normal" range with regard to hardness. Griot's used a black Toyota for their video demo of the CAIO and the suggested product/pad combo seemed good for that paint (and I bet they had that in mind when they chose that for the demo).
How long can the car be off the road/kept clean and dry while you do this? Keep in mind that first you wash it, do any decontamination that's required, and *then* start work with the polisher.
You've received some great info here. I would add the following, and I hope this doesn't make things sound worse or overwhelming. These are all just best practices and learn from my mistakes kinds of pointers.
1. Agree with starting with an All-in-One. The Griot's Ceramic All-In-One is excellent. Just remember it's an all-in-one... that means it is a compromise both in terms of correcting ability and all out protection durability. You will not get as much correction as a dedicated polish and you won't get as much protection as a dedicated sealant or coating. That's okay-- this will still make your paint look much better.
2. Don't skimp on the decontamination step(s) if they're needed, and I suspect they will be in this case. Wash thoroughly (pay special attention to things you might not normally such as cracks and crevices. You want to flush the paint and seams of as much dirt and grime as possible so it doesn't come back to haunt you when you're polishing. A soft brush helps a lot here.
2. Since you're new to machine polishing, I'll tell you something that took me longer than it should have to understand. That is, don't try to do too much polishing with too few pads. In other words, buy several pads (even though they're expensive) and change them out after every few panels. As you polish, the pads will pick up dead paint (and other things) and that embedded contamination will reduce the cutting ability of your pad (or worse, scour your paint as you polish). This is called residue control. Alternatively, you can buy a special pad cleaning brush, or better yet use compressed air to blow your pad out frequently if you'd rather not buy several pads.
3. Use LED lights to examine your work as you go. While this may seem tedious, it's better to do this and uncover mistakes/trouble spots as you go rather than have to come back and hit them again IMO.
4. Make sure your back plate continues to spin as you polish. If it does not, you are not getting much work done and are probably putting too much pressure on the machine. A mark with a Sharpie on the backing plate can be an easy visual cue that your pad is still spinning (not just jiggling).
5. Never turn the machine on without the pad flat on the surface, and never lift the machine off the surface while the pad is still spinning. These will lead to you slinging product all over and making a mess.
1. Agree with starting with an All-in-One. The Griot's Ceramic All-In-One is excellent. Just remember it's an all-in-one... that means it is a compromise both in terms of correcting ability and all out protection durability. You will not get as much correction as a dedicated polish and you won't get as much protection as a dedicated sealant or coating. That's okay-- this will still make your paint look much better.
2. Don't skimp on the decontamination step(s) if they're needed, and I suspect they will be in this case. Wash thoroughly (pay special attention to things you might not normally such as cracks and crevices. You want to flush the paint and seams of as much dirt and grime as possible so it doesn't come back to haunt you when you're polishing. A soft brush helps a lot here.
2. Since you're new to machine polishing, I'll tell you something that took me longer than it should have to understand. That is, don't try to do too much polishing with too few pads. In other words, buy several pads (even though they're expensive) and change them out after every few panels. As you polish, the pads will pick up dead paint (and other things) and that embedded contamination will reduce the cutting ability of your pad (or worse, scour your paint as you polish). This is called residue control. Alternatively, you can buy a special pad cleaning brush, or better yet use compressed air to blow your pad out frequently if you'd rather not buy several pads.
3. Use LED lights to examine your work as you go. While this may seem tedious, it's better to do this and uncover mistakes/trouble spots as you go rather than have to come back and hit them again IMO.
4. Make sure your back plate continues to spin as you polish. If it does not, you are not getting much work done and are probably putting too much pressure on the machine. A mark with a Sharpie on the backing plate can be an easy visual cue that your pad is still spinning (not just jiggling).
5. Never turn the machine on without the pad flat on the surface, and never lift the machine off the surface while the pad is still spinning. These will lead to you slinging product all over and making a mess.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Bull6791- As with TGates' advice (excellent per usual!), the info you'd heard about number/cleaning pads was pretty good.
My short answer about the number of pads is always "a lot more than you'd ever imagine!" and that's not really facetious. OK, I'm pretty fanatical about this topic, but you sure won't go wrong if you err on the side of "more pads".
Cleaning them after each section pass can be as easy as wiping with a white cotton towel, though many of us prefer blowing the pads clean with an air compressor if you have one available.
If you want to boost the durability of the Griot's CAIO, you can give it a quick spritz of their Ceramin 3-in-One LSP ("Last Step Product" in Autopian). It's about as easy as products get, just spray/wipe some on and then buff it off. You'll have good protection from just the CAIO, so you could do that LSP "topper" after a subsequent wash.
Oh, and I'd be cautious/gentle about the Decontamination step. I would *NOT* use a "decontamination towel" or similar due to the risk of instilling new/additional marring that might challenge the corrective abilities of the CAIO. I really like Chemical Decontamination, and IMO it's better than just using Decontamination Clay (which can also mar if you're not careful).
The Deontamination step is one topic where TGates and I just might have somewhat differing takes....I seldom find it as essential as the conventional wisdom would have it (but maybe that's just my specific situations?!?). I see it as a case-by-case thing, and when I've skipped that step it's very seldom bitten me. If it needs doing, do it! But I wouldn't look for extra work if it's not really needed. The CAIO does a good job of cleaning paint all by itself if things aren't very bad.
My short answer about the number of pads is always "a lot more than you'd ever imagine!" and that's not really facetious. OK, I'm pretty fanatical about this topic, but you sure won't go wrong if you err on the side of "more pads".
Cleaning them after each section pass can be as easy as wiping with a white cotton towel, though many of us prefer blowing the pads clean with an air compressor if you have one available.
If you want to boost the durability of the Griot's CAIO, you can give it a quick spritz of their Ceramin 3-in-One LSP ("Last Step Product" in Autopian). It's about as easy as products get, just spray/wipe some on and then buff it off. You'll have good protection from just the CAIO, so you could do that LSP "topper" after a subsequent wash.
Oh, and I'd be cautious/gentle about the Decontamination step. I would *NOT* use a "decontamination towel" or similar due to the risk of instilling new/additional marring that might challenge the corrective abilities of the CAIO. I really like Chemical Decontamination, and IMO it's better than just using Decontamination Clay (which can also mar if you're not careful).
The Deontamination step is one topic where TGates and I just might have somewhat differing takes....I seldom find it as essential as the conventional wisdom would have it (but maybe that's just my specific situations?!?). I see it as a case-by-case thing, and when I've skipped that step it's very seldom bitten me. If it needs doing, do it! But I wouldn't look for extra work if it's not really needed. The CAIO does a good job of cleaning paint all by itself if things aren't very bad.
We are definitely on the same page here, Accumulator. Don't clay just for the sake of claying. Make sure it needs it. It's also easy to get lazy and skip the clay step, then when you polish you risk the change of dislodging some of that junk and scouring the paint with it! Then you're chasing your tail.