Blueprints for new garage

Dean said:
No garage drains. Unfortunately, they in violation of local building codes in my area. Darn those laws!



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I am not a stalker or anything but in what Area do you live>? Mabe you could "add" them later **hinT** hint**
 
You can have them, or yourself, run the 4" PVC pipe under the gravel base and cap off where the drain would be located. You can then come back later and chip out the thin concrete over the drain cap and install grate. I am in the middle of a garage/house addition and that's what we are doing to get around the codes. The drain pipe is going through a 6" sleeve in the foundation wall and will be run under ground and tied in with the gutter down spouts that daylight around 60' from the house.



There are other ways to get around the codes, but don't try to tiy them in to the sewer system. That's where they get really picky so you can't dump oil or gas in the sewer.



Nice layout by the way!!!
 
Dean,



Thanks for posting photos continuously. It makes for a really cool thread...



I found out my neighbor is a concrete contractor and I spoke with him about doing stained concrete. He offered to do my floors at wholesale!



Do you know what color and look your floors will have. I have already made some improvements to my humble 2 car garage but the staining will take it to another level.
 
SteveL said:


There are other ways to get around the codes, but don't try to tiy them in to the sewer system. That's where they get really picky so you can't dump oil or gas in the sewer.
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Ummm...around here, we refer to it as sanitary sewer and storm drain. The roof gutters would be tied into the storm drain, the sanitary is all the stuff from inside the house. One way to get in REAL TROUBLE here, is to put oil or gas in the STORM drain, which goes into the rivers without any treatment. Not that you are really supposed to put any of that in the sanitary either, but at least that is going to a treatment plant. Not sure what you meant, maybe that it would be hard to catch you in the storm drain, while they might track you back from the treatment plant if they find a lot of stuff there (highly unlikely you could generate enough at your home to raise any flags).



Sorry to be picky, but we once had a visit at work from the Sewer Authority, and we were afraid to wash our oily hands after that...and yes, they put an automated monitor in the sewer line, and no, they were after someone else.
 
Silver Lexus,



Here's the color selection chart for the Increte acid-etching system. I think that I'll go for a conservative gray tone, although my wife thinks that it looks too close to natural concrete.



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Dean
 
August 6, 2004 Update:



Finally, the concrete slab for the garages has been poured. There has been so much rain here in North Carolina that I thought we'd never get it done.



The slab has a nice gray patina to it. Now for the framing!



Dean



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Dean,



Thank you for the color chart. I think a red or dark brown might look good also although I can see advantages from going with a lighter color also. On second thought, pewter, sun grey, and grey would be my top three choices.



Teh foundation and slabs looks impressive. I think you have a good contractor at the helm. I can't wait to see the next round of pictures.
 
UPDATE: August 11, 2004



Framing has begun. I'm only now realizing how enormous the 4 car garage section is going to be. Compared to my 8ft ceilings in my current garage, the 11 ft ceiling is going to look like a cathedral! It should be plenty tall for a 4-post car lift. :)



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Holy crap, that garage alone is probably bigger than my house! Very nice looking house when its done.



I just don't want to think of the payments though...........:confused:
 
Nice garage! Oh, the house looks good too. ;)





I met a car collector who really built a garage with attached house. He built it on top of a hill, with the garage going underneath into the hill. There were only three doors, but it spread out inside such that he had (can't remember) 4-5 rows of cars, each row able to fit 4-5 cars. It was insane. I need to go see if he still lives there so I can take some pictures.
 
Dean said:
Compared to my 8ft ceilings in my current garage, the 11 ft ceiling is going to look like a cathedral! It should be plenty tall for a 4-post car lift.
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I'm in the process of building and am going to put a 2 post Rotary lift in. The two posters apparently require a little more. I need a minimum of 12' 6" overhead clearance.
 
Lookin great Dean... I think your going to be very happy with it!







RCG lookin to take a road trip to see this one in the flesh... ;)
 
Your garage setup is similar to mine. I wanted significant garage space without the significant garage presence from the curb. We started our custom build job around June of 2001 and finally moved in November of 2002. While everything is fresh on the mind, I'll offer my $0.02.



Garage considerations:

Where are the beams that hold up the second story? What impact will they have on your available "clear" height and your ability to properly mount a GDO so as not to affect your "clear" height?



Make certain that your garage door tracks raise all the way to the ceiling and then turn at the ceiling. An 11' high ceiling in the garage is no good with a garage door that cuts in at 8' high. I have two garage door openings at 18' x 8' and 16' x 8', each with two extra dunage sections to allow the GDO to work properly. With the mass of the dunage sections, the physical doors are nearly 18' x 11' and 16' x 11'. I probably should have gone with commercial openers, but installed the 3/4 HP Craftsman GDO's instead. IIRC, my upgraded insulated doors and extra work to get this done were nearly $5,000 alone.



I'm sure you've thought of power requirements. I have 400 amp service with 2 200 amp Square D QO panels. Every circuit in my garage is 20 amp. I have numerous outlets in the ceiling for ceiling mounted cord reels as well as drop work lights on reels. There's a fair share of low voltage as well for shop TV's, phone, network, etc.



Also, with dual garages at a 90 degree angle from each other, be sure to plan for vehicle approach. We did a large sweeping "hammerhead" that works well.



That's my $0.02. If you want another dime or so on whole house construction and custom home builds, I'll throw it out there for you.



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TLdot said:
Your garage setup is similar to mine. I wanted significant garage space without the significant garage presence from the curb. We started our custom build job around June of 2001 and finally moved in November of 2002. While everything is fresh on the mind, I'll offer my $0.02.



Garage considerations:

Where are the beams that hold up the second story? What impact will they have on your available "clear" height and your ability to properly mount a GDO so as not to affect your "clear" height?



Make certain that your garage door tracks raise all the way to the ceiling and then turn at the ceiling. An 11' high ceiling in the garage is no good with a garage door that cuts in at 8' high. I have two garage door openings at 18' x 8' and 16' x 8', each with two extra dunage sections to allow the GDO to work properly. With the mass of the dunage sections, the physical doors are nearly 18' x 11' and 16' x 11'. I probably should have gone with commercial openers, but installed the 3/4 HP Craftsman GDO's instead. IIRC, my upgraded insulated doors and extra work to get this done were nearly $5,000 alone.



I'm sure you've thought of power requirements. I have 400 amp service with 2 200 amp Square D QO panels. Every circuit in my garage is 20 amp. I have numerous outlets in the ceiling for ceiling mounted cord reels as well as drop work lights on reels. There's a fair share of low voltage as well for shop TV's, phone, network, etc.



Also, with dual garages at a 90 degree angle from each other, be sure to plan for vehicle approach. We did a large sweeping "hammerhead" that works well.



That's my $0.02. If you want another dime or so on whole house construction and custom home builds, I'll throw it out there for you.
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More pictures? :wavey
 
Thanks for the continued replies and encouraging comments. I'll try to answer some of the questions:



1) "Where are the beams that hold up the second story?" Well, there isn't a "second story" per se. The finished room over the 2 car garage and the storage area over the 4 car garage will have several support posts. Look at the concrete "footings" where the posts will be:



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2) "Make certain that your garage door tracks raise all the way to the ceiling." Yes, they will but this point is really moot. I'm not crazy enough to put 4 lifts in the 4-car garage. Imagine 8 cars in that section of the garage? :) Only the innermost or "deeper" 2 car bays will have lifts. They'll be deep into the garage, so the door height is irrelevent.



3) A "minimum of 12 feet for a 4post car lift? That's a little generous, unless you're talking about a truck/SUV. The cars going up on my lifts include a 2001 Acura Integra Type R and a 2000 BMW Coupe. I think 11 feet is plenty.



In fact, when I look at the developing framing around the 4 car garage, I'm pretty shocked how high it's really going to be!



(By the way, please ignore the blue surgical boot covers on my very pregnant wife's shoes. I didn't want to get mud in my Subaru! )



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