Blending in Panels

P

pingable

New member
I don't even have the slightest clue....



I know what's involved in full panel repaints....



How is blending acheived.

It's it literally just that - not a sharp line, but tapered primer, paint and then a tapered coat of clearcoat.



I just can't quite *picture* it on how they would blend when doing bodyshop work...
 
Blending of vehicles with clearcoats is not a recommended repair process.

Reason being that in a few months, on average, the "blend" line will show as a cloudy area due to lack of paint film build and sufficent UV blockers present in that area of blend.
 
So any body shop working on any modern car will always be spraying a entire panel ?



Just curious. Or when they say *blend* they mean they are spraying the adjacent panel as well so it is not as contrast to the eyes..
 
They may do a blend if they are not following recommended processes and are a shabby shop.

The refinish should be done to a "break", like a seam or such.

I am sure Charlie and a couple of others who also do some automotive painting will chime in shortly.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
They may do a blend if they are not following recommended processes and are a shabby shop.

The refinish should be done to a "break", like a seam or such.

I am sure Charlie and a couple of others who also do some automotive painting will chime in shortly.
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No need, Ron, you've got it covered. :2thumbs:



Only thing I would add is to say that while a clearcoat blend is not recommended, a basecoat (color coat) blend is common practice in collision repair settings where the entire vehicle isn't being painted. Most often this is done to create a smooth "transition" or fade to mask any minor difference in the shade of the color, or flop of the micas/etc. in metallics so they aren't as obvious to an untrained eye. Once the desired fade/blend is achieved (and it may reach across a panel break depending on the damage being repaired) the entire affected panels should then be clear coated.
 
Yup!

If I ever get over to pick up the other Ranchero and fix the small rust perforation behind the rear wheels, I will "blend" the repair.

Can do as it is not a true clearcoat and I will use the new "sort of lacquer" paint. I had to do the same on some damage years ago on one of my LTDII's, works out quite well.

Sure wouldn't try it with a more modern clearcoat, would have to reshoot 80% of the old beast.
 
A few used car dealers I used to work with have the base and clear both blended to save money over a whole panel respray. Then the blend fails a month or so later and starts fading or peeling, usually after the car is already sold. Shady to say the least. The painters that take the jobs, at least from what I've seen in this circle of dealers I used to do work for, are the worst out there and probably take the work because they can't get "legit" work. I couldn't believe some of the shoddy work I saw when I was working with these guys, but all they cared about was it was just good enough to sell the car and that's it. Any good painter will spray the clear edge to edge.
 
chefwong said:
Just googled this....

Not sure how accurate the video is.

Curiosity struck me on blending. Granted the only spraying I've ever done is using a HVLP on wrought iron work and just good 'ole Rustoleoum Cans on various outdoor power equipment.



Can't fathom/see how blending will be not noticable or even *felt* due to varying buildups..



How to Blend Car Paint (Spot Repair) - YouTube
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Yeah, that video is cringe-worthy to say the least. This one from the same guy is even worse:






I called him out on it in the comments and his response was "nothing a bit of wax wont hide for a few weeks."
 
I've had fine results with blends...including blended clear. Some such repairs on my Audis are over a decade old now, and are still 100%. But that's me and as Ron's pointed out, I'm not, uhm...typical (to put it nicely :chuckle: ).



BUT...with today's paints it's a different story. Even the painters who've blended stuff for me in the past will *NOW* always clear the entire panel. Just had a little rust area done on the beater-Audi, and while they blended the basecoats (it's a pearl), they recleared the whole fender. In the past they would've blended the clear *for me* but not these days.
 
I've never realled looked into the *guts* of how bodywork is done. Just always cared about the results....



This is more of a learning session for me. When they respray clear onto of clear, how much scuffing is done on the old clear when they just *reclear* right over.
 
chefwong said:
I've never realled looked into the *guts* of how bodywork is done. Just always cared about the results....



This is more of a learning session for me. When they respray clear onto of clear, how much scuffing is done on the old clear when they just *reclear* right over.
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Depends on the clear; usually 800-1000 grit is sufficient when it's just a reapplication of clear, but I've seen some call for 600 grit as well. There are also red and grey scotch-brite pads that sometimes are useful for getting into body line recesses and other tight spots. It's absolutely critical that every single part of a panel or component be scuffed or there will be adhesion issues with the fresh material.
 
You blend your base color, not your clear. When you blend (burn) clear, you greatly increase the chances for clear coat failure. Refinishing of clear is to go from edge to edge. This is the standard that the body shops live by.
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
Yeah, that video is cringe-worthy to say the least. This one from the same guy is even worse:






I called him out on it in the comments and his response was "nothing a bit of wax wont hide for a few weeks."
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Charles. It's funny about the internet. Such a huge free untapped Marketing Tool....

I see a well respected forum member make a contribution/recommendations of another detailer.....



One, whom I would easily call it out as a hack.

Going back to the the wetsand blind thread, this so called called Pro, wetsands just to remove OP....blind.

I can easily imagine a weekend warrior doing it - just because, but as a Pro, IMO, one should make a decisive decision on what is better....the wetsand *marketing* post, or the diminishing layer of topcoat.



I dunno. I thought that regular *enthusiasts* may not see the errors in the ways....just sorta surprised a fellow pro doesn't and I see it bright as day..
 
chefwong said:
Charles. It's funny about the internet. Such a huge free untapped Marketing Tool....

I see a well respected forum member make a contribution/recommendations of another detailer.....



One, whom I would easily call it out as a hack.

Going back to the the wetsand blind thread, this so called called Pro, wetsands just to remove OP....blind.

I can easily imagine a weekend warrior doing it - just because, but as a Pro, IMO, one should make a decisive decision on what is better....the wetsand *marketing* post, or the diminishing layer of topcoat.



I dunno. I thought that regular *enthusiasts* may not see the errors in the ways....just sorta surprised a fellow pro doesn't and I see it bright as day..
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:nixweiss:think:
 
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