Black Nissan with 3500 miles

IME, if 105 is worked properly (on most paints) the finish is just slighly/evenly hazed--mainly on the curves/body lines. Once the paint is at this point a *quick* buzz over with 205 and you are golden. I mean like half the hood with no pressure for about 30 seconds--pretty quick!



We spend a lot of time on the M105 stage making sure that the pads are fresh, clean, etc. Also making sure that the defects are gone and that the finish is as good as the 105 can leave it.



I find that both M105 AND M205 *can* hide--just have to make sure that you are choosing the right product for the paint corretion at hand.
 
AZ Ferrari Man said:
And one more thing, that dressing on the tires looks great! Have you had any issues with slinging? I am trying to contact a local Malco dist.



So many variables--smooth sidewall, ribbed, etc. I find that this product has *slight* sling when it is allowed to collect in ribs, swipes, tread blocks, etc. Only tire dressing that never slings IME is one that has zero shine, been wiped off completely, or is applied to the perfect tire with care.
 
ebpcivicsi said:
IME, if 105 is worked properly (on most paints) the finish is just slighly/evenly hazed--mainly on the curves/body lines. Once the paint is at this point a *quick* buzz over with 205 and you are golden. I mean like half the hood with no pressure for about 30 seconds--pretty quick!



We spend a lot of time on the M105 stage making sure that the pads are fresh, clean, etc. Also making sure that the defects are gone and that the finish is as good as the 105 can leave it.



I couldn't agree more, M105 seems to be finishing down so well on my S4 when finishing with lighter passes etc.



This makes the M205 a very quick ordeal.



Perhaps it just likes the S4's/GTR's harder clear or something? Or maybe 105/205 is THAT good! :p



By the way, great job on the GTR, it just looks SOO good.
 
ebpcivicsi said:
..

Oh, Accumulator, I should have also noted that I *have* applied the UPP over the M205 without issue. ..--guess it has enough carrier-solvents to clean a little 205 oils. :nixweiss



Thanks for adding that.



I'm still using UPP over my old 1Z Pro MP, but I'd wondered about the M205's oils, with which I have kinda a love/hate relationship.




IME, if 105 is worked properly (on most paints) the finish is just slighly/evenly hazed--mainly on the curves/body lines. Once the paint is at this point a *quick* buzz over with 205 and you are golden. I mean like half the hood with no pressure for about 30 seconds--



I'm still doing the M205/Griot's orange pad after M105, seems to work better for me. When I just use M205/finishing I sometimes still have *very* faint micromarring from the M105 (only visible under the SunGun in an otherwise dark room). No matter what I do (including #34 spritzes when I buff off the M105 residue), I always seem to get that almost-invisible hazing (drove me nuts on the YukonXL, as you can probably appreciate ;) ) and the M205 seems to need something more than a finishing pad to fix it quickly/without a lot of work.



No, I don't think anybody would see this hazing without the SunGun, I can *sometimes* spot it in natural sunlight, but it's sure not the same. Mike Phillips and I were discussing this and he agrees that the SunGun is somehow even more demanding than sunlight in this way.



Heh heh, I kinda have a love/hate relationship with that SunGun too!
 
ebpcivicsi said:
That;s for sure! We have really had a run of "fun" paint lately. :D



bigal, it's really a cool car IMO. We have done two and though I haven't had any seat-time with the car, my initial impressions of the car are favorable.



NRZ, I buy them locally, but they are the same as any green pad that you can buy at any retailer/sponsor--no real difference that I detect.... We used the 6" version which is not for beginners IMO, but it can be done.



Thanks again everyone.



Oh, Accumulator, I should have also noted that I *have* applied the UPP over the M205 without issue. Durability *might* have been affected, but I really don't know. You know, the vehciles that we monitor get weekly OCW treatments. :D I didn't get any wierd "cloudy" issues with the UPP over the 205--guess it has enough carrier-solvents to clean a little 205 oils. :nixweiss



Could you explain how you used the green pad? I may be a beginnner (only three years just scratching the surface) but I want to learn which is why I scan the threads by all you great professionals.



So, by looking online its looks like the green is a pad right in the middle of an orange and white, but what makes it harder or not for a beginner?
 
Accumulator said:
Thanks for adding that.



I'm still using UPP over my old 1Z Pro MP, but I'd wondered about the M205's oils, with which I have kinda a love/hate relationship.








I'm still doing the M205/Griot's orange pad after M105, seems to work better for me. When I just use M205/finishing I sometimes still have *very* faint micromarring from the M105 (only visible under the SunGun in an otherwise dark room). No matter what I do (including #34 spritzes when I buff off the M105 residue), I always seem to get that almost-invisible hazing (drove me nuts on the YukonXL, as you can probably appreciate ;) ) and the M205 seems to need something more than a finishing pad to fix it quickly/without a lot of work.



No, I don't think anybody would see this hazing without the SunGun, I can *sometimes* spot it in natural sunlight, but it's sure not the same. Mike Phillips and I were discussing this and he agrees that the SunGun is somehow even more demanding than sunlight in this way.



Heh heh, I kinda have a love/hate relationship with that SunGun too!





I can certainly appreciate that! :D



Have you tried to remove the left over M105 haze with a Meguiars finishing pad(the black one)? It seems to work really well for us too. I would use these pads exclusively, but I can buy two flat red pads locally for the price of one of the Meguiars pads. I do keep a few of the meg's black finishing pads around for when I need a litle more cut for finishing up. I guess that's what makes polishing paint so cool (and so frustrating at times), just soooo many variables! :D



I can't remember--where does the griots orange pad fall in repsect to say a LC flat orange pad? I remember you saying that they differ in cut, but can't remember which way.
 
Superior__Shine said:
Isn't that the self healing paint? Awesome work but...... if it is THE SELF HEALING PAINT I am all the more impressed.



This car did not have the self-healing paint as far as I know. I asked the owner, said that he did not pay the premium for it. I could not find the window sticker to confirm.



Have you worked on any of the self-healing paint? I would have to guess that it's a little different when polishing. We had another GTR in the shop for paint protection film that had the self-healing paint--it had marring all over it(very faint) that I guess it couldn't heal. :D
 
NRZ said:
Could you explain how you used the green pad? I may be a beginnner (only three years just scratching the surface) but I want to learn which is why I scan the threads by all you great professionals.



So, by looking online its looks like the green is a pad right in the middle of an orange and white, but what makes it harder or not for a beginner?



Sorry, should have been more specific--I only say that becasue of the size of the pad and using it on the flex. I would say that as a beginner you would want to use a 6.5" pad on the flex in order to avoid accidents with the backing plate. The larger pads will give you a bit more room for error. The grade of the pad had nothing to do with the "warning."



I use the green pad just as you would any pad--apply polish, make enough passes to complete correction, and stop.



Hope this helps.





Thanks guys!
 
ebpcivicsi said:
Have you tried to remove the left over M105 haze with a Meguiars finishing pad(the black one)?



No, I haven't. I got one as a freebie with an AutoGeek order, but I didn't want to use something that I only had one of (if that makes any sense). I'll give it a try sometime though, everything that works well for you seems to do well for me too.



I can't remember--where does the griots orange pad fall in repsect to say a LC flat orange pad? I remember you saying that they differ in cut, but can't remember which way.



The Griot's is more gentle than other orange pads. More cut than a regular polishing pad. I'd say it's sorta like some of the various green pads...hard for me to keep all those different green ones straight :think: But it finishes out *VERY* well. If I could only have *one* pad for everything (compounding to waxing), this would be it.
 
ebpcivicsi said:
Sorry, should have been more specific--I only say that becasue of the size of the pad and using it on the flex. I would say that as a beginner you would want to use a 6.5" pad on the flex in order to avoid accidents with the backing plate. The larger pads will give you a bit more room for error. The grade of the pad had nothing to do with the "warning."



I use the green pad just as you would any pad--apply polish, make enough passes to complete correction, and stop.



Hope this helps.





Thanks guys!



Got it, thank you for clearing that up. I use an orange pad in 6 inch sometimes and I actually find that I am more careful with it to avoid damage.
 
ebpcivicsi said:
We had another GTR in the shop for paint protection film that had the self-healing paint--it had marring all over it(very faint) that I guess it couldn't heal. :D





Great work as usual. Add this one to the pile of crappy GTR paint. Total fail on the part of Nissan IMHO.
 
love the job done with this gtr. i'm new to this kind of auto detailing and if someone can recommend a PC and other neccessary materials that i can easily purchase at an autozone or kragen, it would be greatly appreciated. Or what kind of products to avoid.
 
joker74 said:
love the job done with this gtr. i'm new to this kind of auto detailing and if someone can recommend a PC and other neccessary materials that i can easily purchase at an autozone or kragen, it would be greatly appreciated. Or what kind of products to avoid.



Um.... this isn't the question to ask here. Try a search. Also, things to avoid, pretty much autozone and Kragen.
 
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