Black M3 BMW

D

dneedsmuscles

New member
A friend wanted to seal his paint for the fall and winter. Also buffed a few scratches out for him using sonus white pad and OP,HC.



-wash

-clayed (blue magic clay-megs QD)horizontal surfaces

-sealed w/AIO

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Looks very nice!



May I make a suggestion though. AIO, is a great oxidation remover, cleaner and light polish, but I wouldn't go as far as saying it's great for sealing paint. Perhaps you're reffering to SG? Either way, I wouldn't just leave AIO as an LSP, as that's not what it is intented for. If you're a Klasse lover, then you can follow up with their actual sealent (SG) or use one of the many other sealents available (EX-P, FMJ, etc). AIO definitly isn't going to give you the protection that you're expecting.
 
Thanks for the advice. Perhaps I should've added that we are going to be doing a followup in October. We didn't have enough daylight for SG. I wanted to make sure we had enough light to be able to remove the sg if we appplied it.



I will have to disagree with your opinions on AIO though. I think it is a great product for sealing. I also agree with "properautocare.com" opinion on it as well(listed below). However, I do appreciate the advice!



(I’ve seen people at concours events cover the labels on this product so no one would know what they were using!

Klasse All-In-One polishes away oxidation and leaves a deep acrylic shine that can last for 6 months or more. All-In-One is not a wax, silicone or polymer but an acrylic formula. It really is different. All-In-One bonds to the surface like a regular car wax but doesn’t penetrate or change the paint in any way. It matches the depth and clarity of a high quality carnauba wax but lasts much longer. Two applications a year (maybe just one) will keep your car looking great.







All-In-One contains a real polish. It removes surface films, old wax, minor swirls, and oxidation. It’s a true one-step product. It cleans, polishes and protects in one easy step.



Use Klasse All-In-One on all one stage and clear coat paints, gelcoat and painted fiberglass, convertible windows, all clear plastic, finished wood furniture, porcelain, tile, marble, glass, chrome, aluminum, stainless steel and all metals.



Klasse is famous for its mirror-like shine!



Specifically, Klasse All-In-One:

Produces a great shine with excellent depth and clarity.

Is economical, requiring about one ounce to shine and protect a car.

Is very easy to use. Simply wipe on and wipe off. No drying time is needed.

Doesn’t haze or streak if there are water droplets on the surface.

Contains no abrasives or silicones.

Does not stain plastic, vinyl or rubber trim.

Maintains its shine wash after wash.

Lasts longer than wax.

Can be used on any non-porous surface.

Approved for marine and aviation use )
 
hey, great job on the car.

Did you use a PC or a Rotary? I was working on a 05 m3 a blue/purple color (indigo?) and i couldn't get the scratches/marring to budge at all. I used 3 different polish, FPII and got rid of some of the very light ones, Menzerna IP, and that didn't touch the other ones at all, and then SSR 2.5, and it seemed like i needed 3-4 passes with the orange pad to get it to correct right. I didn't want to finish it off so i just told him that i'll finish it next time when i have a rotary. Those BMW paint are so hard! How did HC work out for you? I'm about to go with the same step.
 
artikxscout said:
hey, great job on the car.

Did you use a PC or a Rotary? I was working on a 05 m3 a blue/purple color (indigo?) and i couldn't get the scratches/marring to budge at all. I used 3 different polish, FPII and got rid of some of the very light ones, Menzerna IP, and that didn't touch the other ones at all, and then SSR 2.5, and it seemed like i needed 3-4 passes with the orange pad to get it to correct right. I didn't want to finish it off so i just told him that i'll finish it next time when i have a rotary. Those BMW paint are so hard! How did HC work out for you? I'm about to go with the same step.
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I used a PC with a low cut pad. The HC was needed with the hard paint and the soft pad that I was using. My medium cut pads needed to be cleaned or else I would've used a yellow sonus pad and maybe a compound with less cut than HC like maybe OC. It was my first BMW, and I only did alil spot buffing so it's hard to say what would've worked all the way around the car. I'm assuming a medium cut pad with OC and OP would work fine. Then if you wanted to get more depth go with Menzerna FPII and a finishing pad. Just your preference!
 
dneedsmuscles said:
I used a PC with a low cut pad. The HC was needed with the hard paint and the soft pad that I was using. My medium cut pads needed to be cleaned or else I would've used a yellow sonus pad and maybe a compound with less cut than HC like maybe OC. It was my first BMW, and I only did alil spot buffing so it's hard to say what would've worked all the way around the car. I'm assuming a medium cut pad with OC and OP would work fine. Then if you wanted to get more depth go with Menzerna FPII and a finishing pad. Just your preference!
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the car wasn't that swirled up i guess. the person that i did the car for took it to a swirl master once... and bam saw the swirls 3 days later, vouched to never to do it again.
 
the0ne said:
how did u apply the aio? I cant seem to make it look good on my car without doing it by hand
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I always apply the AIO by hand using a rectangular MF applicator. I submerge it completely into filtered water until it's soaked. I then give the applicator a few good squeezes until no more water drips from it. Next I add a line of AIO and then apply evenly over the surface with back and forth motions enabling the AIO to clean and apply evenly. Since this BMW was a free job, I had my friend(the owner) follow after me and remove the leftover residue. I hope this answers your question...
 
artikxscout said:
the car wasn't that swirled up i guess. the person that i did the car for took it to a swirl master once... and bam saw the swirls 3 days later, vouched to never to do it again.
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hmmm.....very interesting!
 
I'm pretty much new to this stuff, as far as applying by hand, you can go from left to right? I've always used a circular motion with some pressure with all wax and polishes...



Thanks,

Chris
 
cchiu1026 said:
I'm pretty much new to this stuff, as far as applying by hand, you can go from left to right? I've always used a circular motion with some pressure with all wax and polishes...



Thanks,

Chris
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With waxes I use an oval-type of movement to make sure it applys evenly. But with the rectangular MF applicator is makes it real easy to apply a 'sealant' evenly with left to right movements. By applying it left to right I know that the product is even throughout the entire surface. You can get some real good advice in the 'LEARN!' section of this site. David goes over how he likes to use the back and forth movement rather than cirlces because he feels the circle movements put the swirls back into the paint. How much of that is true, I don't know. But it makes pretty good sense to me!
 
artikxscout said:
how many passes did you have to go through with the HC?
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The areas that I buffed were maybe 3 inches long. I did not use HC for the entire car. I only used it to spot treat a few deeper scratches/paint transfers. But I would say I worked the HC in for maybe 15-20 seconds. So however many slow passes you can make in that short about of time!
 
dneedsmuscles said:
I always apply the AIO by hand using a rectangular MF applicator. I submerge it completely into filtered water until it's soaked. I then give the applicator a few good squeezes until no more water drips from it. Next I add a line of AIO and then apply evenly over the surface with back and forth motions enabling the AIO to clean and apply evenly. Since this BMW was a free job, I had my friend(the owner) follow after me and remove the leftover residue. I hope this answers your question...
Click to expand...





ah thats for the tip! good method!
 
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