Black car madness

I too have a black car and have a depth, gloss and pop of the flake that I'm very nearly entirely satisfied with :-) Mine is very nearly marr free, but to get it there, used the below products.



If extra prep is required :

PB SSR 2.5 on a polishing pad

Menzerna PO85RD on a finishing Pad





Planned normal regime :



Klasse AIO

Clearkote RMG on finishing pad

PB EX-P on finishing pad

PB Natty's blue by hand.
 
Darren F said:
I have 2 black cars and I use Jeff Werkstatts Prime Acrylic which is an all in one with added protection and then top it with Acrylic Jett Trigger which is a spray on sealant...After a wash but in between a full detail I use Poorboys Spray and Gloss to get rid of the water spots then some OCW....To keep it clean in between washes, I use FK1-425....
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Spot on, I do prefer prima slick and acrylic glos on my primed and AJ'd car but that is a killer protection system listed above.



There is no way that I will ever finish with Menzerna PO85RD or 106FF on any black or blue car



You may think that it is perfect after a finishing pad with a rotary but it is not perfect yet

Pink moose with edge blue pad or other brands alternative and then prime acrylic by PC with any super soft finish pad like edge white.



Prima swirl I find gets more marks out than menzerna and provides the ultimate colour enhancement that no other polish I have tested can beat.



The obsidian black STI that I did recently with Menz RD's and pink moose looked perfect at the indoor car show or so I thought but I think I will call the owner up and ask if I can apply some prime to it.
 
03DubU R EX said:
Question: how long should I leave the Collinite on before taking it off?



Thanks again.
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Many say that the Collinite should be taken off before it's dry (476). However, Accumulator once commented that if you apply the paste thinly, you can leave it on longer, without making the removal process. Letting it dry will improve durability somewhat. I tried this on my Acura, it it was no problem to remove. Also, there was no more hazing that would present if I wiped it off before it dried. In general, I would say leave it on for 10-20 minutes before buffing it off. If you plan on doing multiple layers (I would do 2-3 total layers), make sure you wait at least 1-2 hours for the Collinite to cure.
 
mikebai1990 said:
Many say that the Collinite should be taken off before it's dry (476). However, Accumulator once commented that if you apply the paste thinly, you can leave it on longer, without making the removal process. Letting it dry will improve durability somewhat. I tried this on my Acura, it it was no problem to remove. Also, there was no more hazing that would present if I wiped it off before it dried. In general, I would say leave it on for 10-20 minutes before buffing it off. If you plan on doing multiple layers (I would do 2-3 total layers), make sure you wait at least 1-2 hours for the Collinite to cure.
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Thanks, exactly the info I was looking for.



Man I am jealous of you guys with the PCs!



OK another question: Is it alright to not wash again after claying the car? Can I just proceed to applying the SSR2.5 right after claying is complete?



This is the process that I am thinking of doing:

Wash

Clay

SSR2.5

Optimum polish

Collinite (2 coats)
 
For claying, I use regular car soap to clay, and I hose the surface clean after I'm done. However, if you plan on using a QD, I would personally wash it just to clean off the dirty, dried, residue left by the contaminants that the clay picks up. It's up to you.



On the contrary to my earlier post, I just did some research on Collinite, and found that, as with all carnaubas, Collinite cure time is more like 2 days, not 2 hours. 2 hours is too short for the wax to cure, and as a result, you won't be able to acheive the maximum durability and look. Wait a day or two before layering. I'd probably wash it before putting on the second layer. Sorry for my incorrect advice.



The time before wiping off is still 10-20 minutes, can't go wrong with that. Make sure it's thin, though. :)
 
Don't be afraid of the Zaino line. There is no more work with Zaino than any other line. I am not a Zaino is best guy, since I have little experience. But Z5 pro on my friends black mustang looked great. The stuff you do before zaino: clay, polish, AIO and then LSP are the same for all product lines. What I would get first now; having spent a bunch of money on stuff I don't use is. Mother's Clay OTC, Optimum Polish, JW Prime Strong, a PC with Edge2000 double sided pads (2 finishing, 2 polishing, 2 medium cut), Z5 Pro, Z6 and Z8. You would be just fine with that for a while and your car would look great. Tons of MF clothes too. When you think you have enough, double the order.
 
mikebai1990 said:
For claying, I use regular car soap to clay, and I hose the surface clean after I'm done. However, if you plan on using a QD, I would personally wash it just to clean off the dirty, dried, residue left by the contaminants that the clay picks up. It's up to you.



On the contrary to my earlier post, I just did some research on Collinite, and found that, as with all carnaubas, Collinite cure time is more like 2 days, not 2 hours. 2 hours is too short for the wax to cure, and as a result, you won't be able to acheive the maximum durability and look. Wait a day or two before layering. I'd probably wash it before putting on the second layer. Sorry for my incorrect advice.



The time before wiping off is still 10-20 minutes, can't go wrong with that. Make sure it's thin, though. :)
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Not a problem, thanks for checking back with the update.
 
johnhoefer said:
Don't be afraid of the Zaino line. There is no more work with Zaino than any other line. I am not a Zaino is best guy, since I have little experience. But Z5 pro on my friends black mustang looked great. The stuff you do before zaino: clay, polish, AIO and then LSP are the same for all product lines. What I would get first now; having spent a bunch of money on stuff I don't use is. Mother's Clay OTC, Optimum Polish, JW Prime Strong, a PC with Edge2000 double sided pads (2 finishing, 2 polishing, 2 medium cut), Z5 Pro, Z6 and Z8. You would be just fine with that for a while and your car would look great. Tons of MF clothes too. When you think you have enough, double the order.
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I'll for sure be trying out the Zaino line, as I've heard very good things about it. I think all the products in the Zaino line is a little confusing, when to use what and when etc. Right now I'm just trying out some new stuff, building my arsenal. Although I wont see the kind of results I want to see without the PC.
 
03DubU R EX said:
OK another question: Is it alright to not wash again after claying the car? Can I just proceed to applying the SSR2.5 right after claying is complete?
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Sure, you can just wipe off the residue left from claying with a mf. But if the residue has dried on the paint it can tend to stick a bit, then it might be easier to wash the car. Either way is fine, you just have to find what works best for you.
 
Zet said:
Sure, you can just wipe off the residue left from claying with a mf. But if the residue has dried on the paint it can tend to stick a bit, then it might be easier to wash the car. Either way is fine, you just have to find what works best for you.
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Thanks



OK last question on claying I promise!

After I wash, should I dry the car and then clay or go ahead and clay while the car is still wet (after the wash has been rinsed off)?
 
Well I went ahead and did a detail with the products I purchased



Wash - GC

Clay - Sonus

Wash

SSR2.5

Collinite



All by hand



I noticed after applying the SSR2.5 and buffing off, there was what appeared to be a haze or something. Not quite sure what it could be. Possibly the light in my garage reflecting off of the swrils? Do I need to use something like Optimum Polish or a pre-wax cleaner after applying the SSR?



The Collinite looks very nice on the car though. Surprised at how easy it was to use. :woot2:



I'm thinking that I probably will need to have a professional detail to get most of the swirls and scratches out that I cant get to by hand.
 
Hmm, well I don't have much experience polishing by hand, but I did some reading on a few old threads and found that Meg's #80 Speed Glaze works by hand, with some filling properties.
 
Bigpoppa3346 said:
Hmm, well I don't have much experience polishing by hand, but I did some reading on a few old threads and found that Meg's #80 Speed Glaze works by hand, with some filling properties.
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Thanks! I'll have to try that out next time.
 
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