Black 2010 GTI sealant question

regina_sk_vw

New member
Hey guys,



First off love the site. I've learned a ton in the 2 days that i found this place.



Now on to my question.



In about a months time I will be taking delivery of a new factory ordered 2010 GTI. Now the the dealer has tried to up sell me a "diamond kote lifetime paint" package, but with the info I've found here and online it seams to be a scam.:hmph:



Now the car I ordered is a "deep black pearl" so I wanna do thing proper right from the start.



The 2 products tha have caught my eye are.



1. Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze



2.Ultima Paint Guard Plus



When my car arrives I told the dealer to not touch it at all other than taking the "car wrap" stuff off.



When I take it home I will wash it good. Should I clay bar it before I use these products?? Will a clay bar micro marr new paint??



I know you can layer these sealants as much as you want. If I do say like 3 coats of either product can I apply a wax over top?



Can I put the sealant over the wax in A month down the line ,or is it once you put wax over this stuff that it, wax only.?



Any other new car owners use these sealants, and do you like them?



Thanks!!
 
Welcome neighbor.



First things first. Learn to wash properly, as most marring will occur from this step.



Sealant Glaze and UPGP are good products, but you now have Autoglym wax at Can Tire, also on sale this week.



Topping sealants with a no-cleaner wax works, but many sealants now a days look very good on their own.



Sealants generally don't bond to waxes.



Try the Autoglym wax and just reapply every month or what ever suits you.



Yes to clay. If you have never clayed before, start slow and check for marring before you complete the whole car.
 
salty said:
Welcome neighbor.



First things first. Learn to wash properly, as most marring will occur from this step.



Sealant Glaze and UPGP are good products, but you now have Autoglym wax at Can Tire, also on sale this week.



Topping sealants with a no-cleaner wax works, but many sealants now a days look very good on their own.



Sealants generally don't bond to waxes.



Try the Autoglym wax and just reapply every month or what ever suits you.



Yes to clay. If you have never clayed before, start slow and check for marring before you complete the whole car.



Thanks man, love the avy. What claybar do you recommend using. I don't think CT has much to offer, or are they all pretty much the same quality?
 
Eshine.ca has some of the best clay. Not sure if C.D.Mac (Regina) will sell to you but they did have various clays. Can Tire has two different kits but they are like $30, never used them so can't comment.



If you order from Eshine, Opti-Seal is an awesome wax topper.
 
regina_sk_vw said:
...In about a months time I will be taking delivery of a new factory ordered 2010 GTI. ...When my car arrives I told the dealer to not touch it at all other than taking the "car wrap" stuff off.



When I take it home I will wash it good. Should I clay bar it before I use these products?? Will a clay bar micro marr new paint??



Welcome to Autopia!



Not knowing where you're located...mabye instead of claying you'd rather do a "Decontamination System" which is basically just a series of washes with specialty products.



Clay *can* mar paint. IF you use the right clay, and proper technique, you can usually avoid that. But the Decon. stuff will do the same job without that particular worry.



Costs a bit though. Check out http://www.autoint.com (their stuff is called "ABC" and I use it on all my new vehicles) and FinishKare (sorry, no current link handy).



Hope the dealer doesn't mar the paint while taking off the transit film. Last time I let a dealer do that they scratched a few places so deeply I couldn't (safely) fix it...the marks are still there, eight years later they're about the worst flaws on the vehicle.



IF you decide to clay instead, I'd go with a *very* gentle clay (I like Sonus green Ultra Fine clay). It might not decontaminate as well as a harsher clay, but it's less likely to mar and on your color I don't think you'll have any downside.



As Salty said, the #1 thing is to learn how to wash without marring ("swirling"/etc.) the paint. Harder than it sounds.
 
Accumulator said:
Welcome to Autopia!



Not knowing where you're located...mabye instead of claying you'd rather do a "Decontamination System" which is basically just a series of washes with specialty products.



Clay *can* mar paint. IF you use the right clay, and proper technique, you can usually avoid that. But the Decon. stuff will do the same job without that particular worry.



Costs a bit though. Check out http://www.autoint.com (their stuff is called "ABC" and I use it on all my new vehicles) and FinishKare (sorry, no current link handy).



Hope the dealer doesn't mar the paint while taking off the transit film. Last time I let a dealer do that they scratched a few places so deeply I couldn't (safely) fix it...the marks are still there, eight years later they're about the worst flaws on the vehicle.



IF you decide to clay instead, I'd go with a *very* gentle clay (I like Sonus green Ultra Fine clay). It might not decontaminate as well as a harsher clay, but it's less likely to mar and on your color I don't think you'll have any downside.



As Salty said, the #1 thing is to learn how to wash without marring ("swirling"/etc.) the paint. Harder than it sounds.



Thanks for the info. I think I found a package that's on sale that I will give a try.



http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/autopia_2097_18245611



In this kit they have a product called "Elastrofoam Paint Cleaning System" Not a clay, but does the same thing, just less abrasives? Have you used this?



Also ya I've heard some bad stories of people picking up new cars with 'dealer damage'... I will have my fine tooth comb out looking for any hit of paint damage. If I see any, I will not sign for the car.
 
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