BF renewal time. What procedures should I follow?

I

imported_Intel486

New member
I bought some Eagle One Scratch Remover and tried it out on my truck. I figured it probably wouldn't take the scratches out that I could feel with my fingernail but it doesn't even take the ones out that I can't feel.



What am I doing wrong? or what is something else I should get?
 
i'm in the same boat with you...



washed, clayed, washed, PI-2 Rubbing Compound and then SMR'd my mom's Caddy yesterday. Even though the paint is super smooth, I can still notice the same scratches as before. If you're using a PC like me, I'm thinking of maybe trying the wool pad instead of the yellow... but am waiting to see what others suggest.



Good luck to you... I'm quickly learning the most important part in detailing is patience! ;)
 
I BlackFired my Salsa Red XK drop top months ago: Used (1) BF Gloss Shampoo. (2) BF Gloss Enhancing Polish. (3) BF Diamond All-Finish Protection. (4) Two coats of BF Midnight Sun Carnuba. I have maintained the finish with BF Gloss Shampoo and Conditoner, and BF Deep Gloss Spray. The original process took several days, but the results were amazing.

After umpteen washes, my Jag's finish is beginning to show a few very minor swirls, and the appearance is obviously not as "wet" as it was following the multi-step "transformation". I would like to renew the "wet shine" look, but do I strip the surface with Dawn, or another detergent, before applying BF? What do I start over with? What would be the best procedures for getting the optimum shine/reflection back? Want the Dazzle.

Me Growler lives in a very hot, dry, dusty desert environment, but it spends much of its pampered life in a (dusty) garage, usually covered. Thanks....:Car smiley:
 
RedSledXK said:
I BlackFired my Salsa Red XK drop top months ago: Used (1) BF Gloss Shampoo. (2) BF Gloss Enhancing Polish. (3) BF Diamond All-Finish Protection. (4) Two coats of BF Midnight Sun Carnuba. I have maintained the finish with BF Gloss Shampoo and Conditoner, and BF Deep Gloss Spray. The original process took several days, but the results were amazing.

After umpteen washes, my Jag's finish is beginning to show a few very minor swirls, and the appearance is obviously not as "wet" as it was following the multi-step "transformation". I would like to renew the "wet shine" look, but do I strip the surface with Dawn, or another detergent, before applying BF? What do I start over with? What would be the best procedures for getting the optimum shine/reflection back? Want the Dazzle.

Me Growler lives in a very hot, dry, dusty desert environment, but it spends much of its pampered life in a (dusty) garage, usually covered. Thanks....:Car smiley:
Click to expand...

If you can "live" with the minor swirls (as in it doesn't drive you nuts), leave them until spring.

I would stirp it down (Dawn and/or Optimum Power Clean) as there probably isn't much there. Consider an IPA wipe down after the wash (50/50 or 75/25 distilled water and 70% alchohol should do). The BF Gloss Enhancing Polish would work, too, if you have some left.

I would use two coats of BF Wet Diamond (I love that stuff) then top with two coats BF Midnight Sun Carnuba - a killer combo. Finish up with 1Z Gummi on the rubber seals and Megs UP on any black plastic trim.

What do you use on the wheels?

Regards,
GEWB
 
Thanks..to both, for well explained comments, and back up, Barry. GEWB, ..why should I wait for spring to address the swirl marks? We are finally living at temperatures that I can stand playing with RedSled. I would rather be driving droptop though. "Life" is otherwise busy too, but I can spare some time to let Jag shine.

Are there minimum temps, at which you should not be applying the polishes,..other products? I have been pleased with the ease of handling BF products... easy to apply, and easy to remove by hand (I only use hand applications/buffing on my fun car).

I should address rubber seals and the minor black plastic trim, but basically have not done so.

Living in a high UV, arid clime, all of these things are constantly under attack. When "undocked", Growler has done a couple looong (2K) SW trips. I am always concerned about the barrage of UV, and fall plagues of grasshoppers. Thanks, for offering specific products. (I hate Hoards of Locusts!)

I have only maintained me wheels by cleaning with BF Gel Wheel and Tire Cleaner, topped off with a couple applications of Wheel Wax. I am prone to brake dust (quit cornering like a slalom competitor?), ...but not as bad as a friend's Beemer. The Wheel Wax does seem to help slow the accumulation of "black" on me wheels.
 
RedSledXK said:
Thanks..to both, for well explained comments, and back up, Barry. GEWB, ..why should I wait for spring to address the swirl marks? We are finally living at temperatures that I can stand playing with RedSled. I would rather be driving droptop though. "Life" is otherwise busy too, but I can spare some time to let Jag shine.

Are there minimum temps, at which you should not be applying the polishes,..other products? I have been pleased with the ease of handling BF products... easy to apply, and easy to remove by hand (I only use hand applications/buffing on my fun car).

I should address rubber seals and the minor black plastic trim, but basically have not done so.

Living in a high UV, arid clime, all of these things are constantly under attack. When "undocked", Growler has done a couple looong (2K) SW trips. I am always concerned about the barrage of UV, and fall plagues of grasshoppers. Thanks, for offering specific products. (I hate Hoards of Locusts!)

I have only maintained me wheels by cleaning with BF Gel Wheel and Tire Cleaner, topped off with a couple applications of Wheel Wax. I am prone to brake dust (quit cornering like a slalom competitor?), ...but not as bad as a friend's Beemer. The Wheel Wax does seem to help slow the accumulation of "black" on me wheels.
Click to expand...

No "need" to wait on a polish - if you have the time, go for it! (Reminds me of the old Miller beer jingle...) I falsely got the impression that you may not have wanted to invest the time to polish; sorry, my error.

As to temps for polish and wax, it depends on the products and your comfort level. I'll wash in the mid 30s F, polish above 50 F, sealant/wax from the mid 40s F. Others in the forum will work in colder conditions.

I live in Denver so I can relate to your comment re: "Living in a high UV, arid clime..." Some day you and I should write up a post about working with products when the humidity is below 25% (and sometimes single digits) - it can be a challenge.

Specifically because of the low humidity you do need to keep all of the rubber seals conditioned. The increased UV is the reason to keep the plastic trim treated.

Sounds like you're on top of the wheels!

Regards,
GEWB
 
Thanks for your further recommendations, GEWB. I agree that living in high-altitude Denver, and the NM low desert (we live at a mere 4 thousand-plus feet in elevation) may certainly cause problems due to low humidity levels and high UV exposure. The extreme sun levels here tend to destroy a lot of things, except for rabbits, that eat everything (keep the car in the garage?). Appreciate your input for protecting seals, trim.

There are many cars around here with yellowed headlight lens hoods, and faded-to-grey black trim.
 
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