Best way to clean door jambs???

airjames

New member
Today is give my Ranger the once over day, not the whole shabang but a thorough wash and general clean up. This consits of washing, debug, detar, deanything that's on it besides wax:p I've always had a hard time cleaning my door jambs thoroughly. I don't want rust to show it's ugly face anywhere on my Ranger for at least a couple more years down the road, so I am trying to do the best I can. What I usually do is take an older cotton terry cloth I got from Autozone and whatever wash water is left from the regular washing and do that. I first very gently rinse down the door jamb with minimal pressure on the hose nozzle and then wash the jamb. My problem is the area where the hinges are and so forth I have trouble keeping clean. I am thinking of using an APC cleaner for this task. Am I on track here or is there a better way for this???? Tks a mill,,,,,,91
 
I use a soft brush with soapy water left over and brush around the hinges, jam and door itself. Then take an old cotton towel dry everything off and use Wurth Rubber Care on all the, well, Rubber. Oh yeah, I use LPS spray teflon oil on all moving parts. The steps above I do once a month. Every week I use an old rag and wipe down the visible stuff after washing.
 
F-150_91 - I'd do whatever you have to (solvents, degreasers, APC, etc.) to get them good and clean one time, then do them with a good, long-lasting sealant. THEN, just KEEP 'em nice. Tips:



Be VERY careful lubing the hinges/latches. Use a pinpoint oiler or something similar and only (lightly) lube the parts that really NEED to be lubricated. Lube holds dirt, dirt holds moisture- bad.



Use a small boar's hair brush (Griot's sells a good set with 3 of them in it) to clean the jambs each time you wash the car. I just use the wash solution and rinse by directing water at the door edges. If you do this every time you wash it should work out just fine. No need to pre-rinse or to THOROUGHLY rinse afterwards (plenty of water gets in there anyhow). If you accidentally (or intentionally) clean the lube off, just reapply (only takes a second since you're only using a tiny bit). I give them a quick drying with an old towel.
 
Accumulator, what lube do you recommend? I hit them with a little spritz of WD40, but feel that isn't the appropriate use for it.



Thanks.
 
Spilchy said:
Accumulator, what lube do you recommend? I hit them with a little spritz of WD40, but feel that isn't the appropriate use for it.



Thanks.



I use different stuff depending on the car/mood I'm in/position of the stars :p .



In the pinpoint oilers (one is an old thing that looks like an oversized hypodermic) you can use most any lubricating oil (*I* use lubes made for firearms). Yeah, WD40 is VERY thin and *I* think of it more as a cleaner than a lube. BUT..after giving it some thought...



A much more normal and longer lasting lube is Wurth's HHS 2000. Aerosol, gotta be careful you don't get it all over the place (it DOES come with a long nozzle-tube and you CAN apply it neatly). I'd probably recommend this as the best for the application. VERY good, stays where you put it. Yeah, that's the one *I* recommend.
 
I agree that Wurth's HHS 2000 is excellent for lubricating door hinges. It spray as a liquid but dry to semi-liquid as it slowly lubricates. It's resistant to heat, water and pressure. Much better and cleaner than normal grease. Only thing is i find the 1cm nozzle a bit short as my can doesn't come with a extension tube.
 
Sci-Fi said:
I like to use Boeshield T-9 lube. It's not exactly cheap, but works great, at least for me, and not messy. Use it almost everywhere, hinges, cables, chains, guns, etc. Can order direct: http://boeshield.com/index.htm



Yeah, thanks for jogging my memory. T-9 is another good one. As I recall, it doesn't dry quite as "thick" viscosity-wise as the HHS 2000, so some will like it better/not as well. IMO, it pays to have plenty of different lubes on hand.



Also, I'm not sure if it's available nationally, but a multi-purpose product, originally for firearms, called Clenzoil (SIC, it was invented by a VERY cool old guy I knew named Ellis Lenz) is what EVERY locksmith I know recommends for lock cylinders.



myauto- Maybe I swiped the extension nozzle from another can! Now and then I see catalogs with a BUNCH of extension nozzles for a few bucks. I try to note who/where/how much next time.
 
edschwab1 said:
Accumulator,

Which brush from Griot's are you referring to? Eric



Their set of 3 "detail brushes", pn 15520. And the round one also works great for exposed lug nuts and other wheel/wheelwell detailing tasks.



Oh, and thanks for posting the link to the Clenzoil website :xyxthumbs
 
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