Best Wax, Sealant or Coating for Protection Durability and Shedding

R

Raz5219

New member
I'm a novice detailer and just picked up a Brilliant Black Crystal Pearl Grand Cherokee as a daily driver. I'm going to give it a clay and polish but not sure what to use as a LSP? My priority is durability, protection, and ability to shed dirt and not attract dust. I live in NY so I get a wide range of temperature and weather conditions. I'm not picky about looks such as depth and reflectivity. I believe that most products out there will provide satisfactory results in that department. I'm also not bias on it being a wax, sealant or coating. From my research, I've come across products like FK1000P, Sonax Polymer net shield, Opti-Gloss and Collinite 476S. Can you guys give me your opinion on what you think will be best (whether from my list or otherwise)?
 
To a point, you can have yer cake and eat it too when it comes to shine and durability. But you need a super clean and polished surface first. Now on the waxes, sealants and coatings (oh my). Most (carnuba) waxes produce the most shine but typically fail the long term durability test (although this is usually not an issue for a near OCD Autopian detailer!). Collinite and FK1000P seem to be exceptions lasting much longer than most waxes.
Polymer sealants offer more protection and most will typically last 6-8 months (or more if topped with a spray 'wax'). Coatings last the longest at up to a year or more. Of course they're more expensive and are best meticulously applied in a dust free garage and allowed to cure properly.

My (sealant) choice right now is 1 coat of Duragloss #105 topped with 2 coats of DG #111, both mixed with DG #601 Bonding Agent. I then sometimes top with DG Aquawax after washes.

But again, a really good shine and durability depends on a super clean (and polished) surface! Prep is most important for both shine AND LSP bonding.
 
You cannot go wrong with Duragloss or Collinite. Like MiVor, I top 105 (sometimes 101) with 111 and use AW every other wash.
 
Regulars here know that my short-answer is FK1000P.

If you can't stand the sealanty-look then Collinite 476S. IF you want to do the trim at the same time then Collinite 845.

I've never tried it, but everybody who uses Sonax seems to like it. Ive never tried Collinite 915 but it obviously has its fans too.

Use either a spray-wax or a leaves-stuff-behind product (I'm gradually switching from my QDs to IUJD) as a drying aid and to provide a slight sacrificial layer.

Then there are coatings....
 
I've tried a couple of products recently both from BlackFire. I cannot tell you how long these might last. I've used both the Crystal Coat and the Crystal Seal, both are relatively easy to apply. The looks are very similar as is the slick feel. I will say that when it comes to ease of application it doesn't get much easier than Crystal Seal. Spray, spread and walk away. Takes 20 to 30 minutes to do an average sized car, plastic and moldings included. I have no doubt the coating will last longer but given the easy appication of the sealant, it wouldn't be a deal breaker for me if it only lasted 3 or 4 months. I've used quite a few different sealants over the years including DP, Meguiars, PoorBoys and DuraGloss (all nice products) but I think I prefer the BF to these. The looks in my opinion are top shelf.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. FK1000, PNS and Opti-gloss are def on my short list. I wasn't aware that Duragloss made good sealant/coatings. I'll have to add these to my list as well.

Accumulator, I have a 6-7 year old can of never used FK1000. The Wax is yellow in color and seems pretty hard. Is this still of to use, or should I get a fresh can if I go this route?
 
Raz5219 said:
Accumulator, I have a 6-7 year old can of never used FK1000. The Wax is yellow in color and seems pretty hard. Is this still of to use, or should I get a fresh can if I go this route?
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Probably just depends on your frustration threshold and/or tolerance for struggling with your products ;) The hard stuff I used was just awful looking and anybody else would've said it was no good. It was very difficult to use to say the least. But it worked OK and sparked my great enthusiasm for the product.

You can soften it up a bit with FK425 QD.

But if you don't mind spending the money on a fresh can that'd sure make your life easier ;)

First though, I'd try agitating what you have now. Really *WORK* an applicator into it (applying soem FK425 if you have that). See if it's hard/dried-up all the way through (like mine was).

I can't help but wonder how great FK1000P on top of Duragloss's AIO would be.
 
Accumulator said:
Probably just depends on your frustration threshold and/or tolerance for struggling with your products ;) The hard stuff I used was just awful looking and anybody else would've said it was no good. It was very difficult to use to say the least. But it worked OK and sparked my great enthusiasm for the product.

You can soften it up a bit with FK425 QD.

But if you don't mind spending the money on a fresh can that'd sure make your life easier ;)

First though, I'd try agitating what you have now. Really *WORK* an applicator into it (applying soem FK425 if you have that). See if it's hard/dried-up all the way through (like mine was).

I can't help but wonder how great FK1000P on top of Duragloss's AIO would be.
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Unfortunately I'm out of FK425 as well so I minus well just order both the FK1000 and 425 at the same time. The 425 was one of my favorite spray waxes. The anti-static properties really do work.

Question: will FK425 degrade 1000P if used after washes or increase it's lasting ability?
 
Raz5219 said:
The 425 was one of my favorite spray waxes. The anti-static properties really do work...
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For some reason it never really did the anti-static thing for me :( Somebody here teased me that I must be putting the FK425 on backwards :D

Question: will FK425 degrade 1000P if used after washes or increase it's lasting ability?
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It sure doesn't degrade it any, and might boost it *a LITTLE bit* if only because it adds a (very light) sacrificial layer of FK-stuff. But FWIW, I'm finding that IUDJ works about as well and between using it as a final-pass wash and/or a drying aid it's rapidly replacing the FK425 for me. But#2 the IUDJ probably doesn't have any of those anti-static properties I keep hearing about, so since the FK425 does that for you I guess you oughta just stick with it.
 
Accumulator said:
For some reason it never really did the anti-static thing for me :( Somebody here teased me that I must be putting the FK425 on backwards :D



It sure doesn't degrade it any, and might boost it *a LITTLE bit* if only because it adds a (very light) sacrificial layer of FK-stuff. But FWIW, I'm finding that IUDJ works about as well and between using it as a final-pass wash and/or a drying aid it's rapidly replacing the FK425 for me. But#2 the IUDJ probably doesn't have any of those anti-static properties I keep hearing about, so since the FK425 does that for you I guess you oughta just stick with it.
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Thanks for the confirmation. What is IUDJ?
 
Unless you mix it up nice and strong the way I do, the IUDJ is priced somewhat competitively once you factor in the recommended dilution rates. Eh, I'd gladly pay through the nose for the stuff, I like it *that* much. Gee, who woulda thunk that Accumulator would be a big fan of some rinseless wash!?!

Note that I *DO NOT* use it straight/undiluted as a dressing the way Garry advocates..my enthusiasm for the stuff doesn't go *that far ;)

Now you wanna talk *PRICEY*...check out his Juice Boost! One of these days I'm gonna spring for some of that and I bet I'll love it.
 
So I just recently 'inherited' an unused tin of FK1000P and it too is yellow and hard??? This is 'normal'? Can it be used like this?

This doesn't 'say' FK1000P anywhere on it, but rather #BWM 101 ???
 
GearHead_1 said:
Looks like layering Poly Wax may rival sealants and coatings.
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It seems to me you could make nearly the same claim when layering ANY product.
I'm thinking back to when I used Klasse - KAIO/KSG with 3 or more layers of KSG. Now I use Duragloss - a layer of 105/601 and two layers of 111/601 topped with Aquawax* after washes (*in good weather, not winter). Additional layers (to a point) provides additional durability. Jerry at DG tells me no more than 3 layers or you start removing polish (sealant).
And then there's topping a sealant with a pure wax (like collinite or FK1000P) ?
 
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