Best wax for single stage paint, and should I use a sealant?

V

Volvonaut

New member
I'm going to do a full detail on my '65 Volvo. It'll get clearcoat soon, but until then... what I have on hand is Trade Secret, Natty's Red, and Tropi-Care paste waxes. Should I go with one of these, or is there an awesome brand I'd be remiss not to try on single stage, and should I use a sealant at all? Any other products, like Klasse AIO?



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(from before I bought it)
 
Beautiful car, why put clearcoat on it? Gonna put a FI V8 in it too? Maybe DVD's in the headrests? Subwoofer in each wheel?



On old paint, nothing works as well as the older Meg's stuff like #83, #80 followed by #7 and on that color, #16 would look amazing.



Anway, awesome car, I love it.
 
Volvonaut- Yeah, I too would definitely prefer to have that car in single stage as opposed to b/c. I'd go to pretty extreme lengths to avoid having to repaint that in b/c. I'd have my painter searching for matching old-stock single stage, just in case it needs some paint/body work.



And I'd lean towards the Meguiar's approach too, though I'd probably use something more user-friendly than the #7 (either #5 or #3). I never did like #83, so I'd use something else for the aggressive work (if it's necessary and the paint can withstand it). But yeah, #80 oughta give the right look.



If the paint is *REALLY* thin and/or fragile, I might even just do it with #9! Perfect correction wouldn't be a priority for me on that car.



I'd also consider using Collinite wax on it instead of the #16, much as I do like, and use, the latter. That's *consider using*, I'd have to think about it and make up my mind when doing it. The only one of your waxes I've used is Trade Secret, and I'd want something longer lasting and better protecting than that.



But no, I wouldn't use a sealant on it. And I wouldn't try to get the paint 100% perfect or even all *that* glossy. IMO it'd be the wrong look for that car; I'd prefer the way #80 finishes out over, say....something like Menzerna or even M205. I'd be aiming for a "period-correct" look on that car. Just *IMO*, but it shouldn't look as high-gloss reflective as, say, a brand new Lexus. It's a '65 Volvo, and that's simply different.
 
Thanks for the advice, compliments, and input. I'll look into Meguiar's as I have been meaning to get to know them better. I understand the appeal of a single stage for this car, but this is noticeably different from the oft misinterpreted factory color, has it's own brand of orange peel, and there is trunk cancer and bodywork that must be dealt with soon. I've had a lot of practice and am close to being able to spray the perfect coat and sand it down to maybe 2% orange peel. Other than a detail oriented clearcoat sure to disappoint purists, the car is to be restored to stubborn original specs, overhauled mechanically, and driven daily!



I still don't fully understand opti-seal. It's some kind of super sealant? I do get the feeling something about sealant might not mesh with single stage so well, but wish someone could elaborate.



If anyone has advice for using the Flex with some medium to light grade Menzerna, or if you think I'd better avoid it, this will be my first attempt doing so sans clearcoat.
 
Are you applying your products by hand or machine?



For old single stage paint, if you need something with a little bite then use M80

Speed Glaze by hand or with a a DA Polisher, follow this with either M16 or M26



If the paint doesn't need any oxidation removal at all, hand rub with #7 or #3 and then apply one of the above waxes.



Nice old car. A friend of mine drove one of those in High School only it was bright Canary Yellow or Chrome Yellow. You don't see them on the road very often. Kine of resemble some of the old Ford and Chevy sedans in the late 1940's





:)
 
I used to have an old VW with single stage paint. Nothing looked better than #7 followed by #26, but it didn't last that long. That was daily driven, though. One thing to consider is #16 and #7 have been around forever. They were designed for SS paint. Zymol is also good for SS, but of course much more $.
 
I once did a red Benz that was single stage. Naturally I started with Meg's, but soon switched to SIP from Menzerna. It turned out to be superior.
 
The older, single stage paint on older Benz are genuinely proper paint jobs. Just the paint used to spray an older average sized Benz weighs over fifty pounds.



Of course, the making, transportation, and the usage of such paint probably killed a lot of polar bears.



My guess is that M16 would be the safest bet on a single stage paint job. M16 was designed in the era of single stage paint technology. The highly reflective characteristic of M16 also makes me believe that it would create reflectivity on paint without clear coat.
 
the_invisible said:
The older, single stage paint on older Benz are genuinely proper paint jobs. Just the paint used to spray an older average sized Benz weighs over fifty pounds.



Of course, the making, transportation, and the usage of such paint probably killed a lot of polar bears.



My guess is that M16 would be the safest bet on a single stage paint job. M16 was designed in the era of single stage paint technology. The highly reflective characteristic of M16 also makes me believe that it would create reflectivity on paint without clear coat.
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Wasnt That old. :)



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I am debating between the Meguiars M80 (sounds very logical) or just trying SIP. May have to give that M16 a try! I'll post the results when I'm finished. Any recommendations on bringing cloudy to downright ruined chrome back? Up front we have a runaway case of greenish-tan spots. I was thinking it might be worth harassing with a Dremel+polishing tip or some kind of machine.
 
Volvonaut said:
Any recommendations on bringing cloudy to downright ruined chrome back? Up front we have a runaway case of greenish-tan spots. I was thinking it might be worth harassing with a Dremel+polishing tip or some kind of machine.
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Since it's wrecked (compromised/corroded down to the underlying metal), sure, I'd go ahead and get as aggressive as you can short of flaking too much of the undoubtedly messed up chromium layer off. But I would take a bit of care to avoid that happening, so don't go crazy.
 
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