Best solution for new Jet Black BMW Z4

GScott

New member
My new Z4 will arrive next month and I'm trying to determine the best way to keep my black car black. After 2 days worth of searching multiple BMW and auto forums I think I have a workable solution. My plan is to get the "Perfect Shine" detailing kit from Autopia and use the Klasse products. Here is what I'm planning:



Twice a year (Spring and Fall) do a full detail. This would include:

1.) Wash using Dawn

2.) Clay as needed

3.) One coat of Klasse AIO

4.) 1-2 coats of the Klasse SG

5.) P21S carnauba



(Of course I will do the tires, wheels, conv top and interior as well.)



Then I thought I would was the car once a week and use a good detailer like the Sonüs High Gloss Acrylic Spritz included in the kit. The description for the kit says the Spritz works great on top of the P21s carnauba. Anyone have experience with this?



Is this a good solution?



Also, can I wax my Z4 between the full details using the P21S after only a wash? Or to put another way...can I layer the P21S on top of the Klasse SG between full details?



Oh, I almost forgot. How long do I have to wait after the car is delivered before I can do the first detail?



Thanks,

Gary
 
Gary,

Welcome to the wonderful world of BMW ownership! You will be thrilled!

Your routine is sound. Keep in mind that AIO/SC is a synthetic which you are planning to "top" with a carnauba (P21S). For a QD on top of P21S, I personally recommend Pinnacle Crystal Mist, which is a carnauba-based QD.

Your AIO/SC will last several (3-6) months depending on conditions, while your P21S "topper" should be reapplied each month, which is no problem on top of your AIO/SC. Sounds like a lot of work to wax after each wash, but once you try the P21S, you'll see it's so easy to use! The Pinnacle Crystal Mist works great as a QD in combination with the P21S.

What are you planning to use as a wash each time? I have had great experiences with both Zymol Clear and P21S Bodywork Shampoo.

You probably won't need to clay very often, certainly not for the first several months if your experience is like mine; I keep my car so immaculate that when I recently clayed after 1.5 years of ownership, there was hardly any inbedded debris for the clay to pluck out.

Be sure to buy some quality MF Towels, I personally like PakShak towels.

Welcome, and good luck!

If you want to see pics of my black BMW, take a look in the gallery, or do a search under my username...
 
Hi and welcome. I have a brand new M3 Cabriolet and lurked for a while here and now have the Plan. First go to jimwh's link on Klasse. http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12590



This will give you a good understanding of what to do and what not to do. What I did was and this is important and your dealer will bxitch. DO NOT LET THEM WAX YOUR CAR. I don;t think that you can get around them washing it. They will put swirls in it, guaranteed. Since you car is being shipped from Spartenburg you have to worry about rail dust so Clay and use plenty of lube. A good clay is either Clay Magic or Pinnacle. I prefer the clay magic because it is a little softer and easier to use. Again, Plenty of Lube. You can make it by putting a half ounce of your favorite autowash in a spray bottle and filling with water. Cheaper than buying the premade stuff.



Time for the AIO, but on 2 coats so you make sure that you don;t miss anything. No need to wipe it off between coats and the less of the Klasse stuff the better. Now it's time for the sealant. USE VERY LITTLE ON A DRY MF APPLICATOR OR TERRY APPLICATOR. You should hardly see it. Use a good MF towel, waffle weave makes it easier to get off though it isn;t hard to do. Let cure for 24 hours and do again. Wash if you have driven it. A trick here is to use a Quick Detailer without wax or silicone sprayed on your MF towel to remove. Put on a third coat within the week. Use either a PS21 top coat or indulge yourself and get a jar of Pinnacle Souveran and put over the Sealant. The more coats of Souveran or PS21 you use the deeper the shine.



Now sit back and be prepared to be WOWED! Have a great time with your new baby.



Bob

\
 
Welcome to the family of BMW Z owners. I have a 2001 Z3.

I have to share and warn you about the cloth top problem I have had. My Z3 has spots of excessive wear and tear from having the top down. It happens where the ridged top support bars rub against the cloth top when it is down. I go topless 95% of the time I drive. Pay attention to the cloth. I wash mine with lyxol(sp??). So I know I remove the grit and grim. But still the wear and tear. If you want you can put a soft cloth over your rear window and have the cloth large enough to buffer the car top in the spots that might wear. Just a word of my problems to help you avoid happened to me.



Fred
 
Did a 96 (actually 5/95) silver Z3 yesterday. 32,000 miles. Not a garage queen, but in marvelous shape (after cleaning). Only used the PC on three small areas for minor scuff removal. Clayed the horizontal surfaces... acrylic polymer sealant. Bingo! Great paint!



Owner (50ish exec) actually said: "That sucker looks better than when I first bought it."



Some days this job is fun.
 
GScott, your plan sounds great. Your car is absolutely going to "pop" when your done. That combination should work great.



For me, how often you wash the car is a function of how it is used and where it is parked. If it is your daily driver, you will want to wash it when it starts to lose that "sparkle". (You probably won't be able to help yourself, I know, I can't.) On the other hand, my wife's BMW is a garage queen, so I don't wash it every week. California Car Dusting a couple of times a week and a little QD, and it just keeps looking great. YMMV.



By the way, welcome to the wonderful world of keeping your BMW wheels clean.:scared I use Eagle One A to Z.



BOB
 
Thanks for all the great advice guys. This place is great :)



The Z4 will be my daily car but it will be garaged at night and at work I have access to covered parking. It also doesn't hurt that I only drive about 1.5 miles to work.



F150BOB,



I'm already very familiar with the BMW breakdust:) I currently have a 2000 328ci and my driving style seems to create more breakdust. I'm hoping that using the Klasse on my Z4's wheels will help in removing the breakdust.



Thanks again for all the great advice.



Gary
 
Hi Gary, welcome to Autopia and BMW roadster ownership!



Jet Black is a <S>bi</S><S>tch</S> PITA to keep really nice! You’ve been given a lot of good advice so far, but being a fellow Jet Black roadster owner I’ve just gotta chime in.



The first important step is to make sure that your dealer does not do any exterior prep on your new Z4! Talk to at least the following: your salesperson, the new car manager, the sales manager. Try to get in writing a statement that if they prep the paint you have the option of refusing the car or getting the swirls removed at an independent paint or detailing shop. If the dealership preps the paint you’re guaranteed to have swirl marks installed on you beautiful new paint! Make yourself a PITA over this. Call and remind them about ten days before delivery, again at five days before delivery, and finally the day before delivery. When you make your acceptance check, be sure to do it in the direct sun. If there are any swirls, then do your negotiating on the spot. If you drive off of the lot the swirls are going to be your problem, not theirs. Do you think that dealer installed freebie swirls are one of my hot buttons? You’re right!



I’m an old fart (getting real close to 70), so I’ve bought a lot of new cars in my life. Every time I’ve gotten home with a new baby I’ve wanted to�take care of it� in the worst way! Baby the new baby by cleaning the interior and the wheels - don’t touch the paint. If you just have to play with your new toy, then go out and drive it with the top down. Push it hard in some “twisties� and learn how it feels - but watch the break-in redline! If it gets dusty, don’t wash or wipe it! Try not to drive it in wet weather if you can avoid it. Don’t park near lawn sprinklers. Do not part under trees that may drip sap, and do not park under spots where birds may perch! If an incontinent bird does choose your Z4 as a target, then you do have the one thing that must be dealt with immediately. Fold some toilet paper or Kleenex into 6-8 layers, get it good an wet and lay in on the offending splotch. Don’t wipe or rub. If it starts to dry, then add a little more water. After 5-10 minutes lift off as much of the poop as you can without rubbing the paint. Repeat as needed. Use a mild solution of car shampoo and water if necessary. When the poop is gone, then dry the area with a soft cotton towel or T-shirt by blotting, not wiping! If you get tree sap on the paint, don’t touch it - run to your computer and post an emergency call for help here on Autopia. Other than dealing with poop and sap, don’t touch your paint! Dry dirt on the new paint will not hurt it!



Get and read David’s Autopia eBook. Engage your brain. Focus on the washing phase. Think! What causes scratches, swirls, and other micro-marring? Here’s the one and only answer: rubbing abrasive materials over your paint causes marring! Focus on learning the best methods and techniques for washing. As you read posts on this and other detailing forums you’ll see a lot of discussion about which wash mitt is best, which shampoo is best, which whatever is best. Ignore that and focus on method and technique. If you haven’t already place an order for a good quality waffle weave microfiber drying towel. Don’t even think about using that brand new chamois you just spent big buck for! Throw it away, or give it to your worst friend, but don’t use it or a bath towel to dry your Jet Black paint. Buy two wash buckets and whatever wash mitt or pad suits you. Buy a bottle of whatever car shampoo suits you - just don’t buy one that makes any claims to add wax to the wash process. Mothers and Meguiar’s are probably available at your local AutoZone or whatever. S100 is available at the local Harley Davidson dealer. Any of these is fine. When you have your materials and have read the eBook’s washing section at least twice, then it’s time to do a mental dry run of what you’re going to do. Two buckets, one with the shampoo/water solution, one with clean water for rinsing your mitt or pad. A hose, preferably with on on/off nozzle, not one that can generate a high pressure spray. One WW MF drying towel. Now you’re ready for the first big (and risky) step - the first wash. You may have washed a lot of cars in the past, but this time your going to do it differently! We’re not even going to do the wheels and tires - that’s a separate task and needs separate tools! Put the top and windows up. If the top is only dusty, then do not get it wet - only vacuum it, both with a wand and a brush. If it is dirty, still don’t get it wet. You’ll need to buy some cloth top specified wash concentrate and protectant.



Everything’s ready, so let’s start! flood the hood with low pressure water. If there are bugs on the front, then flood them some more. Put the mitt in the soapy water - don’t put your hand in the mitt - lay the soaking mitt on the centerline of the hood near the windshield. Push it with no press forward toward the roundel - no pressure on the mitt - just the weight of the water! Flip the mitt over and do another pass parallel to the first one. Squeeze out the mitt (not in the wash bucket and not over the car), then rinse it in the rinse bucket. Inspect it for debris before loading it with more shampoo solution. Now you’ve got the idea! Continue until the hood is finished. Be careful to not get dirt from the wheel wells on the mitt! When the hood is finished thoroughly flood it again with the hose to get rid of any shampoo residue. Continue around the car with the same procedure. Longitudinal strokes on the horizontal surfaces and vertical strokes on the vertical surfaces. Ah, I can hear you asking, “WTF, why should I do it that way? My hand wants to go in circles the way I’ve always done it before!� Here’s my answer: No matter how careful you are about cleanliness of your tools, and how careful you are about using light pressure, you are going to introduce some very minor micro-marring on your Jet Black paint. Straight line marring only reflects light from one angle, Circular marring reflects light from all angles.



As you progress be sure to keep adding water to the already washed areas - do not let them air dry! Removing water spots involves rubbing and you want to avoid rubbing your paint except when polishing. Now come the drying. Don’t even think about using a chamois or cotton towel dragged across the surface! Blot with a waffle weave microfiber towel. I highly recommend the Big Blue and Little Blue drying towels from CMA. The Big Blue is absorbent enough to do your whole car, and the Little Blue is great for touch up. Open the hood, deck, and doors. Dry the areas that are dripping. Watch for drips from the rear view mirrors.



Now go drive the clean Z4 and enjoy! No need for wax yet. You clear coat can live for a long time with no protectant. Read the eBook again, this time focus on waxing. After the next wash, you can put a light coat of wax on it. It doesn’t make any difference what wax you use, just don’t use a cleaner wax.



If you just have to play with “taking care� of your new toy, then the wheels are a safe place to start. Wash the wheels with whatever you’ve got - using a soft brush if needed. Sitting on a creeper or skateboard saves a lot of back aches! When you have one wheel really clean, then rub in one coat of AIO. Top with on coat of SG. The next day wipe the brake dust off of that wheel and add another layer of SG. 3-4 layers is probably best. The Klasse will make it easy to wipe off the brake dust every few days - a spritz of shampoo/water and a quick wipe and they’re clean. There is no carnauba that can compete with a good synthetic such as Klasse or Zaino for making wheel cleaning easy.



Keep in mind that every minor scratch that you add during your climb up the learning curve will need to be dealt with later! When you’re ready to do a full detailing your five item list looks pretty good - P21S on top of the reflectivity of Klasse will really add a lot of depth! Most likely it will be necessary to add a polishing step between the claying and the AIO. AIO isn’t aggressive enough to deal with any but the smallest of swirls.



Good luck, have fun, and enjoy your new roadster!





<CENTER>Never drive with the top up! If it’s cold, wear more clothes! If it’s raining, drive faster! Always wave at other roadsters!</CENTER>
 
GScott said:


Oh, I almost forgot. How long do I have to wait after the car is delivered before I can do the first detail?



Thanks,

Gary



Welcome aboard and congrats Gary.



I waited 3 months before I applied the first wax. Upto that point I washed it regularly. But a lot of people here will tell you that you do not need to wait at all. I waited just in case.
 
Let me add a little to what JetBlack said about waiting. In the olden days waiting was necessary to allow the solvents to evaporate - usually about 90 days was recommended. Topping the new paint with wax would block this evaporation and cause problems. Hence the urban rumor that paint needs to “breathe.� At Spartanburg the paint was baked at some un-godly temperature and your paint will be ready for wax the day you take delivery. If you crunch a fender, a body shop will not be able to duplicate the high temps, so a waiting period is needed for non-factory new paint - usually 30-60 days, depending on the paint an the heat used.



I recommended that you wait, not to let the paint cure, but to let you get over the “new owner’s rush� before tackling something as delicate as BMW’s Jet Black paint. Why am I so adamant about this? Because after owning my Jet Black roadster for over a year, I’m still dealing with dealer installed and self-induced micro-marring. If I’d known to keep the dealer from prepping the paint, and if I could have resisted the urge to “baby� my new toy, I could now be spending more time learning how to get the perfect combination of reflectivity and depth instead of polishing out those {oops!] scratches!



Walk through a parking lot on a bright sunny day. Get within a foot or two of the very shiniest black cars. You’ll be amazed at the swirls that you’ll see! Do you want your new Z4 to look like that? I certainly don’t was my Z3 to look like it had been wiped by somebody doing the “wax on, wax off� routine of the Karate Kid!
 
Nick T. said:


... before tackling something as delicate as BMW’s Jet Black paint.



So true, BMW make great engines and have great deal of experience in chassis design but the paint work is not as though as say VW or Audi. I'd listen to What Nick is saying here. Do not let anybody wash or do any kind of detailing on your car, and especially the dealers. I have not taken my car for a service yet but when I do I am going to put a big sign in the car saying "DO NOT WASH OR DETAIL THIS CAR (unless you have a death wish) "
 
You’re right about the signs! I have three sheets of 8.5x11 in my trunk and a roll of Scotch tape.



<CENTER><font size=6 color=red>DO NOT WASH

OR CLEAN

THIS CAR!
</font></CENTER>



They're printed on both sides. One for each side window and one for the windshield! In San Jose maybe they should also be in Spanish!
 
Some a little while back showed a pic of a new M3 sitting at the dealers where the salesman actually soaped the window of the car saying DO NOT DETAIL.
 
Thanks again for all the help. Does it make a difference if my BMW dealer has a dedicated detail shop?



Just to be safe I sent my salesman an email requesting that my car not be detailed. I'm not due to take delivery until early July so I have time to make sure it doesn't get touched.



My fiance will be taking delivery of her Orient Blue 325ci in June. Would it be a good practice car (more forgiving than black)?



Gary
 
No, it does not make a difference. All BMW dealers have a detail shop but it's your call whether or not you can trust it. Just have them wash it. They will gripe about the not detail but do not be deterred. I don;t think that you can get away with them not washing it. And yes the orient blue is metallic right? Much more forgiving than Black.

Bob
 
Gary - - I’ve never heard a report of a BMW dealer that does a careful job of paint preparation. IMO the delivery center at Spartanburg is the only place to be trusted with black paint! Of course, you can always use your fiance’s car as a guinea pig.



Washing and drying is where the most paint damage is done. A few months ago I spent half an hour watching and chatting with the guys at my dealer while they were doing some new MINI Coopers. They were nice guys and appeared to be trying to do a good job, but were adding a lot of marring to the darker cars. They were all young (under 22 or so) and working for close to minimum wage. It was easy to see how the marring was being caused - if there was an area that didn’t clean up easily they just rubbed harder with their somewhat dirty towels. They were working in the shade so you couldn’t easily see the marring until the cars were moved out into the sun light.



They most certainly can deliver the car without washing! I’ve seen several posts from people that have had their Bimmers delivered with the protective plastic unremoved. If your dealer gives you any static, just make a phone call to BMW’s customer relations.
 
Thanks again guys.



One last question....Are metallic paints better at hiding swirl marks and small scratches? I also liked the Sapphire Black metallic and can still my order if it would be easier.



Gary
 
Very slightly better at hiding swirls, but much harder to get a good paint match when repairing a major scratch or paint chip.



IMO metallic black diminishes the classic appearance of the BMW roadsters! I wouldn’t trade my Jet Black for any other color - except at times I kinda wish that I’d gotten silver.



<CENTER>Never drive with the top up! If it’s cold, wear more clothes! If it’s raining, drive faster! Always wave at other roadsters!</CENTER>
 
Thanks Nick.



My current 328ci is Ti Silver so I wanted something different. The Ti Silver is a nice color.



An interesting dilema has just come up. I spoke with my salesman and he didn't have any problem with them not detailing the car but he did bring up a potential issue. I'm having a rear spoiler installed and he indicated it would be difficult to match the paint if the car was dirty. Should I have them go ahead and wash it but do nothing else?



I assume that I shouldn't wax the spoiler for about 90 days correct?



Thanks.

Gary
 
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