Best Products on White and Silver Cars

[Dan]

Thanks for the great feedback; so is Swirlx comparable UNO?



I actually had a dual-action polisher a couple of years ago and always found it more of a hassle than it was worth. Not sure if I always ended up using more product than I should have, but it always seems to end up everywhere, all over the car i places I didn't want it to.



Going to Walmart this evening to pick up some Swirlx if they have it and will report back. If that seems to make a noticeable improvement, I guess what I am still trying to understand is it best just to wash and using something like Swirlx regularly or is Swirlx always best followed with a wax? Then after you wax would you come back a week or so later and repeat the same process?

I wouldn't compare SwirlX to UNO, but SwirlX is something you can grab locally and see if you like. The other products you listed weren't true polishes so that explains why you might not have gotten the results you expected. The SwirlX will give you something to start with, you'll either notice a big difference (meaning you could probably move down to something stronger for quicker results) or notice a slight difference or just mark it all as a waste of time. Just stick to a very small aread, 1x1'.



You won't need to use any polish on a regular basis, maybe once a year or after claying.

 

[SmoothAsGlass]

So after applying the polish to the whole car (if needed based on how you indicated) you would then follow it with a wax or sealant and then just use that on a regular basis?



Check out the pic above I included to give you a better idea of the finish.

I wouldn't compare SwirlX to UNO, but SwirlX is something you can grab locally and see if you like. The other products you listed weren't true polishes so that explains why you might not have gotten the results you expected. The SwirlX will give you something to start with, you'll either notice a big difference (meaning you could probably move down to something stronger for quicker results) or notice a slight difference or just mark it all as a waste of time. Just stick to a very small aread, 1x1'.



You won't need to use any polish on a regular basis, maybe once a year or after claying.

 

[Dan]

So after applying the polish to the whole car (if needed based on how you indicated) you would then follow it with a wax or sealant and then just use that on a regular basis?



Check out the pic above I included to give you a better idea of the finish.

You don't apply a polish like a wax. You work the polish until you obtain the results you want, which is why I recommend starting with a very small area to guage the amount of work required.. The finish looks fine in the picture, however you can't see the true condition of paint on a picture, certainly not with that lighting.

 

[AlexRuiz]

If you are going to use locally available products, this is a MUCH better combo than the already suggested OTC ones:



- Turtle wax PREMIUM rubbing compound (green bottle. DO NOT get the regular one in the white can or you will regret it...)

- Mothers FX synwax (paste preferably over liquid, bottle in liquid version sucks...)



This combo will give your silver/white car a look that rivals the best of the boutique stuff. Yes, I know, my suggestion of the TWPRC might get me banned for bringing shame to autopia by suggesting a turtle wax product, but this specific shelled reptile is better than any Megs OTC polish. Long working time, decent cutting power, no dust and a finish that is LSP ready in white and silver make it a solid back up polish to have in hand.



For the second part, the LSP, mothers FX needs no introduction... every bit as reflective as the best product out there

Grab a terry cloth applicator for the polish, foam applicator for the wax.



However, I would still think a combo of HD UNO, HD Poxy with an UNO pad would be best

 

[imported_Bence]

smoothasglass, please keep in mind that we, as the old farts at Autopia have different standards than the average weekend waxer.



That's why everyone is jumping on you, suggesting chemicals, combos. While we know the exact behavior of the mentioned products, a newbie like you may feel overwhelmed by the sheer momentum of the infos. Of course I see that you're a "veteran" too, but still... so don't take my explanation as a *smarta$$y* thing...



You posted a picture, yes. That pic is completely useless for us, because the car is in a shaded area and therefore it won't show a single bit of potential paint damage. Trust me, when you are not absolutely anal about correct washing techniques, your car has millions of swirls, scratches - just the white color won't show that so easily. So pull the car out to the full sun and make a picture where the sun's reflection shoots right into the eye of the camera. You can use a high-powered LED and/or Xenon flashlight for that purpose too. You will see the nice circular imperfections which hinder the finish to sparkle.



First, put your hand into a very thin, soft plastic baggie, or into a plastic (not rubber!) glove ladies wear when giving you sliced sausages etc. in the mall. Caress the finish with the plastic-covered hand. You'll feel that the paint is rough, especially on the horizontal surfaces, and behind the wheels on the lower panels. That means that your paint has bonded contamination on it. Totally pointless to wax over this, as you don't want to lock the #&@ß$ onto the surface. So, grab a piece of detailing clay, and clay the car thoroughly (easy). Inspect the finish, repeat the baggie/glove test. The surface must feel glass smooth. Then you can dig out the dual action polisher (NOT the huge jiggling-plate thingies sold as DA "polishers") and start to apply a nice polish which finishes down really nicely. You'll see that the reflections become clearer and the circular swirls are disappearing. When you finished this step, your paint has reached its optical high, so you can lock that condition in with a tough LSP. Because LSPs are not color specific you can choose what you want or what you have, because it will look 1000 times better than the highest-end LSP on an unpolished surface.



But when I have to recommend something, well, I'd go with Megs 16, FK 1000P, Colli 845, Opti-Seal, Optimum Car Wax or Mothers FX/Reflections...

 

[SmoothAsGlass]

Well, I did the test. And the results, it was minor if any of a difference, I clayed the area again so it was smoother/slicker and the polish made it shine nicely, but didn't really stand out much differently than the rest of the car. Also, applied it by hand and didn't have any problem. Do you still recommend going with a Porter Cable?



So any suggestions where to go from here?

Even though you think your finish is perfect, it is probably not, that is where the polish comes in. A true polish is an abrasive compound that will smoothen the finish and add shine. There are lots of products that are called polishes but they aren't, some companies use the term for a wax or LSP. Washing, claying, and regular day to day use all mar the finish reducing its shine. KAIO will remove oxidation, but it is not a real polish. If you really want extreme shine, you'll end up polishing twice a year for a daily driver. Certainly not every time you wax.



If you like simple, UNO is great. It has some good correction power and finishes down nicely as well. If you like Werkstat, Prime Strong wouldn't be a bad choice for an All-In-One (polish and LSP). I'm also a huge fan of Zaino AIO. If you have a Wal-Mart around or a decent auto parts store, grabbing a bottle of SwirlX wouldn't be a bad start either. I guess I'm not really helping by offering so many choices, but there are lots of products that work well.



And it sounds like you are going to be doing all of this by hand, which is a LOT of work. After some though, I'd really go grab some SwirlX, do a small 1x1' area and decide if:



a. you notice a big enough difference

b. want to rethink if you are going to do this by hand



You'll end up spending $8 and you'll have a direction to head towards.

 

[SmoothAsGlass]

No need to explain. I myself have a different standard than the average weekend waxer and want different results, which is why I came here for feedback. :xyxthumbs



Good news is the finish of my car is slick. Clay is one thing I discovered a while ago and have loved it ever since. When I clay I not only feel the finish as I go, but listen to the clay until there is no sound coming from it...then the finish is all smooth and clear of contaminants.



I had a dual action polisher in the past, but never found it helpful. Maybe I always used too much product, but always seemed to have it splatter and go to places on the car I didn't want. Instead, I have always enjoyed doing it by hand and although it is much harder to do, I haven't mind it.



Might try the dual action polisher again. Any suggestions on a specific dual action polisher and correspond polish and wax pads?

smoothasglass, please keep in mind that we, as the old farts at Autopia have different standards than the average weekend waxer.



That's why everyone is jumping on you, suggesting chemicals, combos. While we know the exact behavior of the mentioned products, a newbie like you may feel overwhelmed by the sheer momentum of the infos. Of course I see that you're a "veteran" too, but still... so don't take my explanation as a *smarta$$y* thing...



You posted a picture, yes. That pic is completely useless for us, because the car is in a shaded area and therefore it won't show a single bit of potential paint damage. Trust me, when you are not absolutely anal about correct washing techniques, your car has millions of swirls, scratches - just the white color won't show that so easily. So pull the car out to the full sun and make a picture where the sun's reflection shoots right into the eye of the camera. You can use a high-powered LED and/or Xenon flashlight for that purpose too. You will see the nice circular imperfections which hinder the finish to sparkle.



First, put your hand into a very thin, soft plastic baggie, or into a plastic (not rubber!) glove ladies wear when giving you sliced sausages etc. in the mall. Caress the finish with the plastic-covered hand. You'll feel that the paint is rough, especially on the horizontal surfaces, and behind the wheels on the lower panels. That means that your paint has bonded contamination on it. Totally pointless to wax over this, as you don't want to lock the #&@ß$ onto the surface. So, grab a piece of detailing clay, and clay the car thoroughly (easy). Inspect the finish, repeat the baggie/glove test. The surface must feel glass smooth. Then you can dig out the dual action polisher (NOT the huge jiggling-plate thingies sold as DA "polishers") and start to apply a nice polish which finishes down really nicely. You'll see that the reflections become clearer and the circular swirls are disappearing. When you finished this step, your paint has reached its optical high, so you can lock that condition in with a tough LSP. Because LSPs are not color specific you can choose what you want or what you have, because it will look 1000 times better than the highest-end LSP on an unpolished surface.



But when I have to recommend something, well, I'd go with Megs 16, FK 1000P, Colli 845, Opti-Seal, Optimum Car Wax or Mothers FX/Reflections...

 

[Scottwax]

Best all around with good value, some level of durability and easy to use and great looks. How does the Optimum line compare to #16, Uno and Poxy, or Pinnacle Liquid Souverän?

Can't beat the ease of use of either OCW or OS, both have decent durability, OS has great resistance to bird bomb damage and make any color look very wet. Collinite 476 is as easy to use as #16 and has a wetter look.

 

[imported_Bence]

No need to explain. I myself have a different standard than the average weekend waxer and want different results, which is why I came here for feedback. :xyxthumbs



Good news is the finish of my car is slick. Clay is one thing I discovered a while ago and have loved it ever since. When I clay I not only feel the finish as I go, but listen to the clay until there is no sound coming from it...then the finish is all smooth and clear of contaminants.



I had a dual action polisher in the past, but never found it helpful. Maybe I always used too much product, but always seemed to have it splatter and go to places on the car I didn't want. Instead, I have always enjoyed doing it by hand and although it is much harder to do, I haven't mind it.



Might try the dual action polisher again. Any suggestions on a specific dual action polisher and correspond polish and wax pads?

Good to hear that you are a true Autopian!



Basically any dual action sander is good for the purpose - you decide the price level.



Generally, the machine has to offer at least 400 watts of power, 3-4 mm of pad throw and most importantly, good ergonomics.

 

[SmoothAsGlass]

Think I have narrowed it to the following:



3D HD Uno Auto Polish followed by 3D HD- Poxy



OR



Meg Polish (not sure if there is a particular one to go with) followed with Meg #16

Good to hear that you are a true Autopian!



Basically any dual action sander is good for the purpose - you decide the price level.



Generally, the machine has to offer at least 400 watts of power, 3-4 mm of pad throw and most importantly, good ergonomics.

 

[Dan]

Well, I did the test. And the results, it was minor if any of a difference, I clayed the area again so it was smoother/slicker and the polish made it shine nicely, but didn't really stand out much differently than the rest of the car.

Well, if it made a difference by hand, you definitely have room for improvement. As far as standing out, you are dealing with two things. First white and silver cars just don't pop as much as other (darker) colors when polished well. Second, this is totally a case of diminishing returns. I bet your car looks amazing to most people, but some of us crazy folk would look at it and see opportunity for improvement. I'm sure if you polished the whole car and took a step back, you'd see the difference. I think you should do lots more reading here and learn to use your DA to its full potential, that is if you want to take it to the next level.

 

[SmoothAsGlass]

Keep in mind, "made a difference" borderlined on "no real noticeable difference".



Had donated my previous DA, but thinking of picking up the Meguiar's G110v2 Professional Dual Action Polisher.



Looking at combining either M205, SwirlX, or Ultimate Polish with Collinite 845IW. Seems the UP would be the least abrasive.

Well, if it made a difference by hand, you definitely have room for improvement. As far as standing out, you are dealing with two things. First white and silver cars just don't pop as much as other (darker) colors when polished well. Second, this is totally a case of diminishing returns. I bet your car looks amazing to most people, but some of us crazy folk would look at it and see opportunity for improvement. I'm sure if you polished the whole car and took a step back, you'd see the difference. I think you should do lots more reading here and learn to use your DA to its full potential, that is if you want to take it to the next level.

 

[Dan]

Keep in mind, "made a difference" borderlined on "no real noticeable difference".

If you are happy with the looks of your car, don't take our word for it, leave it alone. It would be foolish to spend a weekend polishing to not notice a difference.

 

[SmoothAsGlass]

Have been happy with the looks of it, but always welcome ways to improve on it.

 

[De WALTER]

HD Uno and the Poxy are great products. Been extremely happy with the way they work for me and i get a great amout of refferals from customers.

 

[TedFred]

I would try Ultimate polish with 845. In my opinion on my white BMW the polishing step is what makes the difference. I have tried many waxes on this car and I can barely tell the difference if at all. The thing that I noticed is the polishing made the car look like glass

 

[Jhony505]

If your car is in great shape and you only want to add shine and protection, go with Poxy, #16, or Souveran. If you want to remove scratches, oxidation, or swirls, go with a polish such as Uno and finish up with one of the waxes you mentioned.

In my vehicle I saw couple of scratches and I like to try this.

 

[Jesstzn]

Myself I think its fruitless to polish by hand no matter what you use and you rish lack of uniformity in pressure and passes resulting un possible spot hazing.





When needed I clay them polish mine out with the PC using the proper pad/polish combination then either Klasse AIO or Optimum PolySeal to clean it up and prep it for a sealant. I use a base of Klasse SG ( used to use Zaino but as I ran out Iwasn't prepared to buy all the "required" stuff again ) followed by 4* UPP. I tried #16 over it and it did add a little warmth but not worth the effort.



I tried the 845 and wasn't impressed at all on white and it didn't even outlast Duragloss #105 on my winter car.

 

[Accumulator]

Some sorta-random thoughts follow, from somebody who's owned a lot of white and silver vehicles (currently have six in those colors):



-Removing/reducing the marring can matter almost as much on those colors as on anything else; clearcoat is clearcoat, and light is either reflecting or refracting

-Getting the inspection lighting and technique sorted out is a huge part of the challenge

-Which LSP looks "best" is strictly a personal preference no matter what the color of the paint; I use different stuff on our two identical-paint silver Audis and they look subtley different- somebody will prefer one over the other and somebody else will disagree and somebody else won't see a diff at all

-You *CAN* do correction by hand, that's how I remove fingernail scratches from behind Audi (very hard clear) door handles and how I sometimes do spot repairs on large panels. Just takes time and effort (but you gotta do it right)

 

[hplaceap]

Asking a question like that always gets a list of everyones favorite products. :chuckle:



I have 2 white vehicles. I use BFWD on both and the white really pops - in addition to protection longevity and a nice shine.



One can't go far wrong with most of the product advice in this posting thread.