Best products for swirl mark removal by hand?

Accumulator said:
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Gotta be careful about that seemingly safe and obvious approach! The vast majority of autopainters I've known (and that's quite a few) didn't really know much about this, many not even being familiar with the paint manfacturers' (current) potition on the topic. Just because they can run a paintgun really well that doesn't mean they know other things about the paint, like what goes on after it's sprayed and the car goes home with the customer (who's usually clueless).

They (the painteres) have always been especially ignorant regarding my primary concern with paint curing- attaining maximum hardness. Sometimes they will say something like "yeah, it'll get harder for a while, I couldn't get it quite perfect right now...", usually after I complained about marring in the new paint.

The concern here is that if anything (i.e., some LSP) interferes with the outgassing process then there's a chance the paint won't get as hard as it otherwise might. That has happened to a few Autopians and I've always been paranoid about it happening to me (I've had paint get *dramatically* harder over the course of up to six months).

Whether this is a valid concern is one of those things that'll be debated forever. David Fermani and I have agreed to disagree on it, and he and I hardly *ever* disagree about anything!

To be on the safe side I use products that are determined to be fresh-paint-friendly for the first 3-6 months (at least 90 days). For decades I used Meguiar's M05 (or M03/M07/M81/Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish) or 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. These days I use OCW, based on the testing/approval by Ford regarding its use on "post-production paintwork". So IMO it's easy- err on the side of caution by using OCW, which isn't a bad product anyhow.
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Valid points !!
 
So a friend of mine owns the Griot's one and says I can use it any time I want. So...which pads and chemicals do you guys recommend I buy for removing swirls on a dark mid-dark blue metallic clear-coated paint? I just want to use the machine to remove swirl marks (I enjoy hand waxing).
Thanks for all the advice.
 
You really can't correct anything by hand...I tried for years before I got smart and bought a good orbital.

As they say, "why can't you do it by hand?"

"Becasue the hand cannot move at 1500 RPM"

get a griots, a med pad and meguires 205...

done...if that don't get it, start with 105....
 
marlinspike- What pads/products you'll need depend on the hardness of the paint and the degree of correction you're after; the color doesn't really enter into it because, as I like to say, "clearcoat is clearcoat". Yeah, darker colors are less forgiving of sub-optimal results, but whether that matters is one of those subjective things (this particular subject ;) is just as nutty about his silver vehicles as his dark blue one).
 
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