Best Product to use on Single Stage Paint
- Thread starter ems154
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MrSelfDestruct
New member
I have not had much experience with single stage paint... but I did do a quick buff job on a red Pontiac Vibe (yes, older one with single stage). I applied paint sealant after buffing it... looked OK but not as shiney as most other cars. I'd say a carnauba wax or maybe a glaze would bring up more of a deep shine...
finerdetails
New member
I've just done a red single staged, used megs speed glaze on polishing pad, then followed with megs pro hand polish, again by pc, selaed with wolfgang hi gloss, and topped with Pinnacle souveran! it looked gorgeous...
The megs hand polish really lifts and oils the paint, its not the easiest to remove, but the single stage will prob drink the oils like its starved...
The megs hand polish really lifts and oils the paint, its not the easiest to remove, but the single stage will prob drink the oils like its starved...
honkeybizkit
New member
I have always heard that single stage paints like carnaubas, and really doesnt like polymers. Dont know how true it really is, but my brother's red jetta with Glasurit paint didn't like polymers at all.. It would have a filmy look under HPS street lights. FWIW.
I have a white single stage car this week that is in awful shape.. I mean AWEFUL, and its an 02.. I plan to take good pics and toss it in the Click And Brag.
I have a white single stage car this week that is in awful shape.. I mean AWEFUL, and its an 02.. I plan to take good pics and toss it in the Click And Brag.
wannafbody
wannafbody
Megs #9 and #26
Accumulator
Well-known member
I have considerable experience with ss and still have two cars with the original ss paint. Back when I swore that "I'll always own black cars" (famous last words 
) they were all single stage so for years it was basically all I had. IMO you just can't beat (high quality) single stage black! Sorta fragile stuff though.
While you do have to watch it with regard to UV exposure and other types of abuse, I agree with the carnauba recommendation.
Note that "feeding the paint" isn't always BS with single stage the way it is with basecoat/clear. SS can and will dry out if you neglect it (and it'll do it a little even if you *don't* neglect it). So products like the Meguiar's "pure polishes" (#3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal #2), AKA "glazes" can be very beneficial.
Here's what I'd do:
Polish out the marring to your satisfaction remembering that black ss is about as soft as paint gets and that it's only original once (so I'd rather have imperfect thick paint than perfect paint that's been polished to the point of being very thin). If it's a repant be especially careful as it can be hard to tell how much you have to work with. Go easy on the high points and around edges. Don't freak out over all the pigment transfer on the pads and towels. Use soft MFs so you don't reintroduce marring after you've polished.
Then apply one of the above-mentioned pure polishes/glazes. They "wet" the surface and hydrate the paint (again, this isn't BS in *this* case). The oils/etc. in them were designed for this exact application. With all but #5, buff off before completely dry. #5 can be buffed off wet or dry (the most idiot-proof product ever IMO). Be careful to use soft MFs and gentle techniques.
Then apply a good carnauba and either "layer" it with spit-shining type techniques or, at least, reapply quite frequently, say after most washes. Again, be very gentle so you don't mar the paint.
Topping with something like Souveran might give an added appearance boost, but I'd use something more durable for the initial waxing unless it's a garage queen.
#26 can look great on ss black (deep, rich, and dark) but the durability isn't stellar. I'd probably choose the wax based on the appearance/durability priorities. I would not use Gold Class, just not the look I like on this kind of paint. Black ss is one paint where the subtle differences between LSPs aren't always so subtle
) they were all single stage so for years it was basically all I had. IMO you just can't beat (high quality) single stage black! Sorta fragile stuff though.While you do have to watch it with regard to UV exposure and other types of abuse, I agree with the carnauba recommendation.
Note that "feeding the paint" isn't always BS with single stage the way it is with basecoat/clear. SS can and will dry out if you neglect it (and it'll do it a little even if you *don't* neglect it). So products like the Meguiar's "pure polishes" (#3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal #2), AKA "glazes" can be very beneficial.
Here's what I'd do:
Polish out the marring to your satisfaction remembering that black ss is about as soft as paint gets and that it's only original once (so I'd rather have imperfect thick paint than perfect paint that's been polished to the point of being very thin). If it's a repant be especially careful as it can be hard to tell how much you have to work with. Go easy on the high points and around edges. Don't freak out over all the pigment transfer on the pads and towels. Use soft MFs so you don't reintroduce marring after you've polished.
Then apply one of the above-mentioned pure polishes/glazes. They "wet" the surface and hydrate the paint (again, this isn't BS in *this* case). The oils/etc. in them were designed for this exact application. With all but #5, buff off before completely dry. #5 can be buffed off wet or dry (the most idiot-proof product ever IMO). Be careful to use soft MFs and gentle techniques.
Then apply a good carnauba and either "layer" it with spit-shining type techniques or, at least, reapply quite frequently, say after most washes. Again, be very gentle so you don't mar the paint.
Topping with something like Souveran might give an added appearance boost, but I'd use something more durable for the initial waxing unless it's a garage queen.
#26 can look great on ss black (deep, rich, and dark) but the durability isn't stellar. I'd probably choose the wax based on the appearance/durability priorities. I would not use Gold Class, just not the look I like on this kind of paint. Black ss is one paint where the subtle differences between LSPs aren't always so subtle
Meguiars #83 and #80 will polish out the oxidation really well, if by PC, I'd go with the Propel or Meguiars pads since they have a more open cell structure than the LC pads, giving the dead paint somewhere to go while buffing. Finish with Meguiars #81 or Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and seal with a quality carnauba or if you want a bit more protection, Poorboy's EX w/carnauba works great on single stage paints.