GearHead_1
Long Time Member
xscash said:
It's pros like you handing out "helping advice" that end up helping their bottom line. It's the nature of SPAM. After all it's not like this thread was on the top of anyones list. It's been hiding for years.
Best Garage Floor covering?
- Thread starter MBurnickas
- Start date
It's pros like you handing out "helping advice" that end up helping their bottom line. It's the nature of SPAM. After all it's not like this thread was on the top of anyones list. It's been hiding for years.
GearHead_1 said:
funny, i just answered a pm with the info on the product that I do not sell. im in the installation biz not the sales rep biz. i do not help myself in anyway giving out info. but ive been to plenty of "DIY" jobs that were done incorrectly and with a bit of guidance could of been done properly. if you do not need help...step aside and keep on topic, i have memberships on tons of forums for auto enthusiest and there is always 1 guy that wants to hi-jack everyones thread....cant beleive i found him on my first day.
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
xscash said:
No doubt car forums of any type are a great place to hawk luxury concrete sealing systems. Do you jump to this topic as quickly when joining other sites? Calling hi-jack is always a good ploy to deflect attention. If staying on topic were really one of your focuses you wouldn't have found the need to rebuff my initial post. :ignore
Greg Nichols
New member
Dean,
How does that fan work for ya? Got any info on where to get one?
I have a swisstrax flooring, I really like it. MUCH more durable than racedeck. I love the floor in the winters, NO water to walk on.
Cheers,
GREG
How does that fan work for ya? Got any info on where to get one?
I have a swisstrax flooring, I really like it. MUCH more durable than racedeck. I love the floor in the winters, NO water to walk on.
Cheers,
GREG
GearHead_1 said:
im new here, if this is the way you treat all in your forum then i do not belong here...you do not belong hi-jacking others threads and calling out some one without the thought of a rebuttal....and yes its rebutt, not buff. its nice that you get someone who could answer some questions and you push them away. i do not see any reason to be part of this forum. if there is a mod out there please remove me from your members, slickery i appologize for lettin this jacazz suc me into his off topic rants.
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
xscash said:
Actually it rebut not rebutt but judging from the rest of the spelling or grammar in this post...:har:
My initial response would have been the rebuff (to abruptly reject), my apologies.
I guess I'm in trouble also xscash, I replied to a post about flooring and brought up polished concrete and being that's what I do for a living I guess I can't give advice or opinions on the subject, so from now on if someone has a question about decorative concrete I shouldn't offer an opinion, advice or recommendation and just let people who are not experienced in the subject give the advice. I for one didn't see it as you selling your services and offering an alternative, now if you posted something like "all the other types of flooring are junk give me a call at 555-1212 and I'll send you an estimate! CALL NOW!" besides a pm I wouldn't even know how to contact you, hell you don't even list the state you live in. Gearhead I think your a little wound tight although I can see your fear of this site being over run with people trying to sell their services which is understandable I don't think that was his intention.
Here is what I did in my garage. Hope it helps.
Extreme Makeover: Garage Epoxy Flooring (lots of pics) - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online
Extreme Makeover: Garage Epoxy Flooring (lots of pics) - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online
I originally wanted to do epoxy, but the combination of my floors being too pitted and the stories of epoxy lifting over time forced me down the racedeck route. The reason I didn't like the idea of a tile solution was because I didn't like walking on plastic -- thought it would feel cheap since it's not connected to the floor.
In practice, I'm finding that what I thought I wouldn't like about Racedeck is exactly what I do like. It's easy to keep the floor spotless and it doesn't get cold like concrete, so I never hesitate to walk barefoot on it. I use a Dirt Dog to keep it clean and mop occasionally. About once every six months I use Racedeck's stripper and sealant and it looks actually better than new once the sealant is applied. The other advantage is that I can take the floor with me if we move. Also, if I ever damage a tile, I can replace in about 5 minutes for $3. I'm really very happy that logistics force me to take my "second choice" of a tile solution.
In practice, I'm finding that what I thought I wouldn't like about Racedeck is exactly what I do like. It's easy to keep the floor spotless and it doesn't get cold like concrete, so I never hesitate to walk barefoot on it. I use a Dirt Dog to keep it clean and mop occasionally. About once every six months I use Racedeck's stripper and sealant and it looks actually better than new once the sealant is applied. The other advantage is that I can take the floor with me if we move. Also, if I ever damage a tile, I can replace in about 5 minutes for $3. I'm really very happy that logistics force me to take my "second choice" of a tile solution.
Attachments
TLMitchell
is dazed & confused
peterp said:
That's a nice looking installation. I see a lot of very pleased folks using Racedeck. I don't think it'd work for my purposes, In the winter all kinds of crud is melting on to the floor and heading for the drains and I use water in the garage year round.
TL
TLMitchell said:
It's no problem for normal snow melting since this is a common occurrence in our garage as well. Water doesn't really seep through the tiles and there is enough ventilation so that water is never trapped under them. Racedeck does make special tiles that have drainage in them, so you could use those over the drain areas (though I don't know if this would work for you depending on how the water is used in the garage).
There are basically 4 options for you garage floor:
1. Leave it as is - raw concrete.
Advantage: No cost. No work.
Disadvantage: Difficult to clean, etches, unsightly after dirk and stains accumulate.
2. Non-permanent Coverings. These basically fall into subcategories.
a) RaceDeck and other plastic/rubber 2x2 like tiles that click together.
b) rollout rubber mats
Adv: Somewhat cost effective, can be taken apart when moving. Rollout is just that and can be cleaned outside.
Dis: Looks cheap when compared to well prepared and painted floors. Plastic floors can make noise. May not be easy to clean and dirt accumulates around the pucks or raised floor edges. Careful using flooring jacks. Another major disadvantage is that water and debris can get trap under the flooring. Leading mold, standing water etc.
3. Ceramic Tile or VCT
Ceramic Tile is an option but then you have to deal with grout. Plus, ceramic is pourous so constant sealing is required. Don't go with a smooth slippery surface version as it will be very dangerous. Probably ok for a show room type garage where not a lot of driving in and out happens with dirt/snow/rain water introduction into the garage.
ADV: Can look stunning. Tiles are not expensive and can be a DIY.
DIS: Maintanence.
VCT Tile is an option commonly used by homeowners.
ADV: Cost effective. Easy application. Decent look.
DIS: Maintenance. Constant application of sealer every few months. Tiles can lift up. Tile grout lines can become dirty. Sealer coat can yellow. Basically, high maintenance.
4. Staining/Epoxy Floors
The top coat is what provides the ultimate protection. So wether you stain or put an epoxy base, doesn't really matter. Just personally preference on the look you are after.
The problem and it's not really a problem is 2 fold:
1. Proper prep and application. There is probably where 50% of the failures happen.
2. Cheap grade epoxy. You need a high solid content version and the stuff you pickup at Big Box stores isn't professional enough. Probably good for basements and that's about it. I personally would never never use the Behr system that's at a big box store or the one that comes in grey box, has a yellow/black stripe on it from a bigbox store. Sorry, way tooo many compliants with either of those and your destined to have issues. For every happy customer, there are 10's, 100's complaining.
For your garage, it's important to go with a system like UCoatIt, Wolverine or the Sherwin Williams HS line (The SW may not be easy for you to find).
Typically applied by pro's but with proper research, meticulous prep, careful application and enough time for the product to setup before driving a vehicle into the garage with hot wheels.. you should be able to get a long long life out of your garage. Just careful with jacks etc. which could damage the top coat.
ADV: Looks amazing. Endless design choices (flake, no flake, any color, stain, can put vinyl designs into the floor etc.)
DIS: Cost, Application takes a long time. Some maintenance.
5. New professionally applied non-epoxy floors are coming into the market (saw a few of them at a local home show). Their a plastic/cement like product that isn't finished smooth and has a rough texture a high build up of product. Suppose to be industructable. Not my cup of tea as it wasn't smooth and had a deep texture.
ADV: Little to no maintenance, pro install so no need to break your back ;-)
DIS: COST COST COST. Not a DIY project (yet). Unproven in the hobbiest/home owner field.
After researching this topic to death for a couple of years (obviously in no hurry :shocked) I've basically come to the decision that for my garage when I get around to do'ing it:
Either
1. 10% chance: Concrete staining it with a very dark color. Then top coating it with a clear Wolverine epoxy.
2. 90% chance Wolverine beige with 4 colors of flake (20% white, 20% beige, 10%brown and 50% black). I`ll also be treating the 90 degree corner between the wall and floor into a rounded concave corner when fixing cracks etc before the etching etc. Adds a nice touch and prevents dust and dirt from accumlating there. Easy to clean overall as a result. The approach is used in hospitals, pharmaceutical companies .. basically anywhere that needs to maintain clean rooms etc.
Hope that helps :dance
P.S. GarageJournal rocks for flooring discussions
1. Leave it as is - raw concrete.
Advantage: No cost. No work.
Disadvantage: Difficult to clean, etches, unsightly after dirk and stains accumulate.
2. Non-permanent Coverings. These basically fall into subcategories.
a) RaceDeck and other plastic/rubber 2x2 like tiles that click together.
b) rollout rubber mats
Adv: Somewhat cost effective, can be taken apart when moving. Rollout is just that and can be cleaned outside.
Dis: Looks cheap when compared to well prepared and painted floors. Plastic floors can make noise. May not be easy to clean and dirt accumulates around the pucks or raised floor edges. Careful using flooring jacks. Another major disadvantage is that water and debris can get trap under the flooring. Leading mold, standing water etc.
3. Ceramic Tile or VCT
Ceramic Tile is an option but then you have to deal with grout. Plus, ceramic is pourous so constant sealing is required. Don't go with a smooth slippery surface version as it will be very dangerous. Probably ok for a show room type garage where not a lot of driving in and out happens with dirt/snow/rain water introduction into the garage.
ADV: Can look stunning. Tiles are not expensive and can be a DIY.
DIS: Maintanence.
VCT Tile is an option commonly used by homeowners.
ADV: Cost effective. Easy application. Decent look.
DIS: Maintenance. Constant application of sealer every few months. Tiles can lift up. Tile grout lines can become dirty. Sealer coat can yellow. Basically, high maintenance.
4. Staining/Epoxy Floors
The top coat is what provides the ultimate protection. So wether you stain or put an epoxy base, doesn't really matter. Just personally preference on the look you are after.
The problem and it's not really a problem is 2 fold:
1. Proper prep and application. There is probably where 50% of the failures happen.
2. Cheap grade epoxy. You need a high solid content version and the stuff you pickup at Big Box stores isn't professional enough. Probably good for basements and that's about it. I personally would never never use the Behr system that's at a big box store or the one that comes in grey box, has a yellow/black stripe on it from a bigbox store. Sorry, way tooo many compliants with either of those and your destined to have issues. For every happy customer, there are 10's, 100's complaining.
For your garage, it's important to go with a system like UCoatIt, Wolverine or the Sherwin Williams HS line (The SW may not be easy for you to find).
Typically applied by pro's but with proper research, meticulous prep, careful application and enough time for the product to setup before driving a vehicle into the garage with hot wheels.. you should be able to get a long long life out of your garage. Just careful with jacks etc. which could damage the top coat.
ADV: Looks amazing. Endless design choices (flake, no flake, any color, stain, can put vinyl designs into the floor etc.)
DIS: Cost, Application takes a long time. Some maintenance.
5. New professionally applied non-epoxy floors are coming into the market (saw a few of them at a local home show). Their a plastic/cement like product that isn't finished smooth and has a rough texture a high build up of product. Suppose to be industructable. Not my cup of tea as it wasn't smooth and had a deep texture.
ADV: Little to no maintenance, pro install so no need to break your back ;-)
DIS: COST COST COST. Not a DIY project (yet). Unproven in the hobbiest/home owner field.
After researching this topic to death for a couple of years (obviously in no hurry :shocked) I've basically come to the decision that for my garage when I get around to do'ing it:
Either
1. 10% chance: Concrete staining it with a very dark color. Then top coating it with a clear Wolverine epoxy.
2. 90% chance Wolverine beige with 4 colors of flake (20% white, 20% beige, 10%brown and 50% black). I`ll also be treating the 90 degree corner between the wall and floor into a rounded concave corner when fixing cracks etc before the etching etc. Adds a nice touch and prevents dust and dirt from accumlating there. Easy to clean overall as a result. The approach is used in hospitals, pharmaceutical companies .. basically anywhere that needs to maintain clean rooms etc.
Hope that helps :dance
P.S. GarageJournal rocks for flooring discussions
cgage said:
muriatic acid = bad idea :nono
paco said:
Very nice paco! You are pretty much spot on with all your comments, very impressive.
One thing I would avoid,
Do not use acid on your floor to etch/prep it. This is probably the single most common error in epoxy flooring systems. The problem is, if it is not neutralized properly you will have failure. If your going through the process of installing an epoxy flooring system, rent a shot blasting machine. This is the BEST practice to use in prep. It may cost a few bucks more, but you will know that you provided the best surface prep possible.
Also, for a topcoat.
Go with a Urethane. You will have better chemical resistance and a more durable topcoat than epoxy (epoxy's scratch much easier than urethanes).