? best final polish before AIO

M

Michaelelts

New member
Short story: Had an 05 TL perfectly preped by dealer(YEA):) wrecked it after owning it 2 months (boo):eek: Got another ( amica insurance great( yea yea ):cool: , The regular detailer did not show up so the saleman got the lot guy to prep my car:angry . Used # 2 followed by smr then pf2 then aio,sg and ps21. There is a slight haze when viewed closley looks like a polish scratches form my process. I think I need another finer polish to remove these next time I rework the car in a few months. For now the car is acceptable. I need some suggestions for a final polish( I thought the PF 2 was the that product but.....:confused:
5248beyonce1.jpg






before PS 21 the haze is only visable up close not in the reflections which are fine



This picture is exagerated some it was slightlyout of focus done with hand held natural light but you can see the haze which is not very evident in direct sunlight it is only present in the areas where I had to really buff out the scratches.
5248dscn1147.jpg
 
Thats haze alright.



83,SSR2.5 with either a polishing pad or a light cutting pad followed by either 80, SSR1, Sonus3, FP2, ect.
 
At this point rather then buying another 100 dollars worth of product I might either get a pro detail paid for by the dealer or try the original detail guy ( after I interview him)
 
dashotgun said:
I need some suggestions for a final polish( I thought the PF 2 was the that product but.....:confused
Click to expand...



What is PF 2?



Part of the problem could be your use of #2. This is a rotary only product.
 
You mention 3M PI II, I don't know if you are referring to RC, SMR, or MG but the perfect combination on this car would have been RC, MG, AIO, P21S. At this point, I would just go over the car with MG again to finish it off and then AIO + P21S.
 
Note that Perfect It II and Perfect It III are product lines. Lots of different products have PI-II/III prefixes.



90% of the time I can do whatever correction I need to do with two products: PI-III RC (pn 05933) and PI-III MG (pn 05937). These have been replaced by the new PI-3000 line but are still commonly available. These work fine by hand/PC/rotary. The RC is fairly mild, sorta like a more user-friendly version of Meg's #83 IMO. The MG is a good "go-to" polish, the one to reach for first in most any situation.



The PI-3000 equivalents of the PI-III stuff should work fine too.



dashotgun- The two PI-III products I recommended above will cost less than a pro detail and you won't have to worry about the guy doing the work ;)



IMO if you have these two products on hand and a good selection of pads, you should be able to handle most any problem. Get some 4" pads for serious correction (they work more aggressively than the larger pads).
 
The exact product I have is Finesse it II 05928. This was part of their professional line I believe. And is a final polish I think. Other then mail order there is an auto paint store ( for the trade) they stock a lot of the 3m stuff as well as the complete Meg line. I will check out your suggestions. I am not sure if the dealer's detailer is a full time guy or part time. he certainly did a nice job pf prepping car # one there was no issues with that car at all. on the other hand he may not have a clue about fixing this problem but may only be good a prepping. I hear you about not trusting them although they created a problem were non exisited they should fix it.



I will check out the MG either 3m or megs
 
dashotgun- OK, now I follow you...the FI-II is a good product that I used before switching to the PI-III line. IMO it's sorta in between the two PI-III products I suggested. I'd still get the PI-III stuff, at least the MG or the new PI-3000 replacement.



For the FI-II, if it didn't get the marring out, you can always try using 4" pads before buying any of the PI-III RC. If it left marring of its own (even though you broke it down fully) then just use the MG/PI-3000. That oughta remove the haze/micromarring. My advice keeps getting back to buying that product, huh ;)



I agree about when shops mess something up they oughta fix it, I've just *very* seldom had it work out that way. I usually ended up messing around with them and still having to fix it myself (after they've taken off who-knows-how-much clear with their failed attempts :rolleyes: ). I dunno if I have *ever* had a shop prep a car better than I would have, even before I had a clue.



Good luck with whatever route you take.
 
okay wnet to the local napa auot paint store they had 83 machine glaze PIII in a small container for 10 and P 3000 MG in the larger size for 20. I ended up with the P 3000 MG and will try it by hand at first on a small section to see how it reacts before taking out the PC. I amy end up waiting a month or so only because I just did the clay then buff tnen aio sg p21 dance and I hate to do the whole thing all over again so Soon. OTOH the supra needs to be redone and the P 3000 it probably just the ticket to get rid of the mild micor marring before I re aio it. The picture above really exagerates how bad it is under normal light you do not see it. It is visable under reflected light in the garage. I am really trying hard to let it not bother me to much.
 
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