Best(favorite) leather conditioner?

CamoZ71 said:
Glad i got cloth.
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You should just go ahead and rhino line your trucks exterior paint also ;) :D

There's nothing wrong with leather now a days.
A few years ago, I absolutely refused to buy a vehicle with leather. My pockets can't afford a vehicle with really nice leather in it, so what I could afford had cheap, hard, sticky, nasty leatherlike product on the seats. But in todays market, there are some really nice leathers out there, even on vehicle within my budget. Obviously the higher end vehicles have better leather. But the big 3 have come a long way with leather, a lot better than what was previously available. This new Colorado I bought has decent leather in it. It's nothing like the Ferarri and Bentley leather, God I would absolutely kill to have some seats made out of Bentley leather :( But the Colorado leather is decent.




Dang, now I'm really wanting some Bentley Leather :( Man that stuff is just absolutely amazing :( Now I'm getting depressed :(
 
Top-grain premium leather

The top 5mm (0.1969 ?inch) of the selected leather hide is used in ?premium? grade upholstery leather (the balance is used for other leather finishes, normally termed ?split-leather or by-cast) which is coated by first melting a type of glue on the surface, then rolling on a film of coloured polyurethane. This type of leather is also known as coated or covered.

Top-grain premium leather is mostly used in prestige European automobiles; Aston Martin, Bentley, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lotus, Lexus and Rolls Royce, US Cadillac and high-end German automobiles such as Mercedes-Benz, Daimler AG and BMW. This is the market sector both Leatherequi and Connolly were originally formulated
 
As soon as I have them I will. I applied the products a few weeks ago and I'll probably wait a few months to make my final determination. Sleep
 
I have been using Optimum Protectant Plus lately on leather. It's nice because it leaves a very natural look to the seats. Plus, you can use it on the dash, plastic. and other interior surfaces as well.
 
Looks like a road trip down south to get the information from David soon. for myself I look to BLACKFIRE High-UV Leather Conditioner , The Leatherique Leather Rejuvination System, Leather Master's , and Connolly Hide Food.:thumbup:
 
zoomzoom mazda5 said:
Looks like a road trip down south to get the information from David soon. for myself I look to BLACKFIRE High-UV Leather Conditioner , The Leatherique Leather Rejuvination System, Leather Master's , and Connolly Hide Food.:thumbup:
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Zoom, I do believe you are the first person (that I know) that has used both the Leatherique and Leather Masters systems. Care to compare/contrast the two offerings? Also let us know which of the LM products you use (ie. soft or strong cleaner, protection or vital ... or all). If I understand their (LM)marketing theirs is more of a routine maintenance product with Vital possibly being in the "restoration" category. Am I reading them accurately?
 
Nick Chapman said:
You should just go ahead and rhino line your trucks exterior paint also ;) :D

There's nothing wrong with leather now a days.
A few years ago, I absolutely refused to buy a vehicle with leather. My pockets can't afford a vehicle with really nice leather in it, so what I could afford had cheap, hard, sticky, nasty leatherlike product on the seats. But in todays market, there are some really nice leathers out there, even on vehicle within my budget. Obviously the higher end vehicles have better leather. But the big 3 have come a long way with leather, a lot better than what was previously available. This new Colorado I bought has decent leather in it. It's nothing like the Ferarri and Bentley leather, God I would absolutely kill to have some seats made out of Bentley leather :( But the Colorado leather is decent.




Dang, now I'm really wanting some Bentley Leather :( Man that stuff is just absolutely amazing :( Now I'm getting depressed :(
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I just meant i like cloth over leather, personal preference, leather makes my back sweat for some reason.
 
Leather Master was the 1st to introduce the first furniture, automotive and clothing leather care for the first time to the American Market back in the mid eightes ( 84?). The available leather formulas were mostly wax, silicone or solvent based. Leather Master contained the first user friendly formulas that were safe for all types of leather. These water-based, nontoxic, biodegradable, and dermatologically-safe products are also foolproof for anyone to use.
All Leather Master products are manufactured in Montecchio Maggiore, Italy.
Part of the wife's family is from there also.
All Leather are classifies according to cleaning codes and deck labels into the basic categories. (A)-ANILINE, NON-COATED, (P)-PROTECTED, COATE0 and (N)-NUBUCK and SUEDE.

(A)-ANILINE/NON-COATED: These leathers are colored with transparent dyes which enable you to see the actual grain and markings. To determine if the leather is unprotected, lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter color, or if leather conditioners or water darken the hide.

(P)-PROTECTED/COATED: This type is also known as coated . These leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance.. The heavier pigments and finish do affect the softness and scent, so these leathers often don't feel or smell like real leather.
To determine if your leather is Protected, lightly scratch the surface to see if it leaves a lighter color, or if cleaners and conditioners remain on the surface. Liquids will not penetrate Protected leather.
These types of leathers will also have a sheen or even shine.These leathers are more common in the automotive industry.

(N)-NUBUCK/SUEDE: Sometimes called Bomber type , this type of leather is actually an "Unprotected" finish that has been brushed.
Nubuck leather will have a texture similar to velvet. If you move your hand across the surface, the nap will change appearance similar to vacuuming carpet. Liquids will darken this type of leather.
 
Leather Master's : Leather Cleaning system ,this Cleaner will clean the surface without affecting the leather's finish at all. The Remover deep cleans and can remove the finish if applied too aggresively. so be careful not to go crazy on it. Leather Protection Cream is a water based protector for all leather types except Nubuck! This product should be use on a proper maintain leather at least 2 times a year. I would like to say the I haven't use the whole system but had use two of their products, which IMO works very well on alot of types of leather.

Now on to Leatherique........
This is the best system I have seen to date and to tell you the truth, there are some more out there that I would like to try out on leather.
The Leatherique system is just the opposite. You apply Rejuvenator Oil first which conditions the leather and forces dirt and grime to the surface. Then you wipe the leather with Leatherique Prestine Clean cleaner to remove all the oils and junk brought to the surface amazing product this is. It's been around a very long time.
If your looking for a started leather cleaning kit, then this is the one. Then to maintain your leather you can go with leather masters or use Blackfire High UV Leather Condition for maintaining your leather. One final word on just don't not use Blackfire on perforated leather as it could clog the pores in leather and do not use on any napped leather's like a suede type. But also remember any product can clog pores in the leather, so a very small test area is needed to be sure.
 
If there are more information on more Leather products out there I would love to see it posted here, I'm always willing to read about them and maybe trying them to. I just don't have too much leather cleaning to do these days. (customers cars). I know some of you have try alot more products then me so please posted it............Thank you Sleep
 
akimel said:
From the stuff I have read on the net, I am persuaded (rightly or wrongly) that water-based products are best for finished leather. Once one has made this determination, then the field narrows considerably. I am currently using Leather Master products.
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+1


After ready the info about protected leather I decided to try some LM too. :wink:
 
keep coming back to Leatherique

I have tried Sonus - I just bought some Meguiar's Gold spray to use in between Leatherique applications, although I have not tried it yet. I should say that my leather is 22 year-old Benz Blue. I plan to get a dye kit from Leatherique to repair all of the worn spots. Leatherique is indeed time consuming, but it's restorative properties fit the bill for me. :thumbup:
 
CamoZ71 said:
I just meant i like cloth over leather, personal preference, leather makes my back sweat for some reason.
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It may be the polyurathene covering protecting the hide as opposed to the leather that is causing your back to sweat

You can test wither or not it?s a protected leather; by slightly scratching it with your nail, if it changes to a darker / lighter shade, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes colour depending on the fibres' orientation). If this has little effect it?s protected. If water ?beads? on the surface, then it is probably covered leather. If it soaks in, then it is probably Aniline finished leather.
 
To identify the material used;

(N-Nubuck / Alcantara?) (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) (P-Protected / Coated)

(a) Protected leather (P-Protected / Coated) - by slightly scratching it with your nail, if it changes to a darker / lighter shade, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes colour depending on the fibres' orientation). If this has little effect it?s protected. If water ?beads? on the surface, or if cleaners and conditioners remain on the surface. It is protected leather as liquids will not penetrate this type of leather; it will also have an even shine.

(b) Natural leather (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) Aniline Leather is coloured all the way through with a transparent dye. The effect is applied by immersing the leather in a dye bath. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only top quality hides can be used. It has a random shade colours and grain pattern; lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter colour, water drops will darken its colour (temporarily).

(c)Nubuck, Alcantara? (N-Nubuck / Alcantara? ) - are top-grain cattle hide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibres, producing a velvet-like surface. It is very soft to the touch will scratch or scuff very easily; water drops will darken the leather but it returns to its original colour after drying.

(d) Nappa Leather (A-Aniline / Non-Coated ) ? a very soft, full grain (uncoated) leather made from an un-split sheepskin, lambskin, or kidskin, usually tanned with alum and chromium salts and dyed throughout, water drops will darken its colour (temporarily).

(e)Vinyl - vinyl will have a much more even, almost repeating pattern. The depth of the lines within the grain on vinyl is also consistent, while the same lines on leather will vary; it is also usually smooth and soft to the touch, water drops will remain (unchanged) on its surface

Many people are unaware of the fact that since the late ?80s early ?90s many of the newer domestic cars and some imports (US) do not use natural leather hides anymore. Approximately 90% of vehicle manufacturers have used (thermoplastic) urethane covered split hide leather for their interior upholstery. Vehicle leather upholstery is made from natural hides, chrome tanned and uniquely treated with a light pigmented water-based urethane coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating.
It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, which besides body oil / salt is leathers worst enemy.

The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in at the tannery, this is further sealed by a durable urthane covering or a water-based polymer pigmentation (colour) to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle?s AC system.


An extract from one of a series of in-depth detailing articles ? TOGWT ? Ltd Copyright 2002-2008, all rights reserved. ​
 
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