Best Buffing Pads To Use After Wet Sanding?

gmblack3a said:
Before M105 I really like using 06060 3M ECC much more then PG.
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I still like the 3M ECC (though I have the older PI-III version) for some things. Old-tech rocks-in-a-bottle, but it can still be a good choice on very hard paint.



I always find PG vs. M105 discussions interesting; my one painter (and yeah, some painters really *can* polish paint quite well!) insists that he gets better correction by far with the PG :nixweiss
 
Accumulator said:
I always find PG vs. M105 discussions interesting; my one painter (and yeah, some painters really *can* polish paint quite well!) insists that he gets better correction by far with the PG :nixweiss
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I think it all really depends on the clear coats.
 
My observations........



Sounds like the OP is in a body shop environment or dealing with fresh paint in this example; which typically equates to softer (fresh) paint. In that case, I highly suggest checking out using 3M Trizact 1500 & 3000 sanding discs via your PC; followed with the Kevin Brown Method (KBM). This method is currently being used in several body shops in my area with extremely great success. Body shops are now able to reduce touch time and come backs now switching to a DA style of post refinishing repairs. Here's a thread I created briefly showing how it can be done:

http://www.autopia.org/forum/machin...rter-cable-xp-sanding-kevin-brown-method.html

Aside from the refinish environment, this method (or should I say thought process) can also be used in mainstream paint correction. I'd much rather quickly sand down(level) a surface that's filled with heavy defects instead of tediously chase after each defect through ala carte isolated correction. This way you'll more than likely only need to do 2 follow up correction steps for completition. Sanding will also make the finish look crisper, clearer and all together better. Refining your sand scratch with a finer grit of sandpaper is also much smarter and quicker than needing and/or having to use a heavy compound to do the task. It also creates the risk of instilling heavy compound halos that could potentially be masked and at times a PITA to remove. A DA can and will quickly and easily removes 3000 grit scratches when used with Meg's M105. I've never been able to do the level of correction with any other liquid that's on the market when used this machine.



As far as PowerGloss goes, it's probably one if the worst and least favorite compounds I've used. It offers marginal cutting and produces deep abrasive rings when used with most wool pads. It also dusts like crazy and has unpredictable work times and results. Probably why Menzerna is desperately working at releasing its replacement. I'd much rather use 3M Extra Cut. Very friendly product and is has always been great when a heavy leveler is needed.
 
ill have to get some of those pads....and an extra pc for the audi I have in a few weeks...I have a feeling its going to need some sanding love!
 
WCD said:
I recently sanded and finished with 3000 wet and started with 1500 and 2000 dry on orbital.



polished with 105 and then 205. Used wool with 105 and then white foam with 205 all on high speed, but not super high speed if you know what I mean. I think I was one click passed 2.



Product pad combo is the key for me, not just the pads. I would go with techs' advice.



Good luck, Rob



our auto detailing videos - santa barbara mobile car wash and auto detailing
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in your video you used a Milwaukee sander. is that made for auto refinishing? i want to get a sander for a big wet sand job but dont know too many brands
 
David Fermani said:
As far as PowerGloss goes, it's probably one if the worst and least favorite compounds I've used. It offers marginal cutting and produces deep abrasive rings when used with most wool pads. It also dusts like crazy and has unpredictable work times and results. Probably why Menzerna is desperately working at releasing its replacement. I'd much rather use 3M Extra Cut. Very friendly product and is has always been great when a heavy leveler is needed.
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Like the S500 Fast Gloss and POS100 Power Gloss:buffing:
 
David Fermani said:
You lucky Europeans.....:D



What's the hold up? VOC?
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I don´t think that the POS100 was ment to be sold in the US and therfore it would not pass the VOC regulations. Not sure about the S500, but I guess it will be launched in the US and the rest of the world. I have a 250 ml sample on the way as I write this.
 
I know this is an older thread, but can anyone shine some light on the effectiveness of using a SurBuf pad with PowerGloss on a PC7424?



I am contemplating purchasing some Surbuf 6.5" pads to use along with PG on my BMW...but then wondered if I really will notice a difference over my various yellow, orange, and meg's burgundy cut pads in 4" and 6.5".



Is it worth my money to pickup the SurBuf as well?
 
I just did a full wet sand on a custom cruiser bike. I wetsanded with 1500 grit than 2000 grit. I used Powergloss with LC Cyan 4" pad w/ flex rotary, than Power Finish with LC Cyan 4" pad and flex rotary, than Micro Polish with LC Black 4" pad and flex. Than I used BFWD and it turned out great! If you want use a glaze before your lsp...
 
Lake Country purple wool are great, and they come in tons of different sizes which is really helpful when buffing the hard to reach areas.





John
 
I would first use Trizact 3000 to remove all previous sanding marks, then M105 on a surbuff followed by M105 on a finishing pad if needed? All with a D/A machine
 
I have been using a surbuff pad on the past couple of cars (with a flex 3401) and I am not sure if its just because I am using it on a FLEX or not a regular orbital DA, but the M105 dries VERY fast and causes extreme Marring, the marring buffs off easily, but its not the same finish as you guys are getting in some of your post? Do you guys think its because of the speed and aggressiveness of the FLEX? I have seen some post were it finishes down beautifully, What am I doing wrong?
 
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