Best AIO for single stage paint

One more quick question :car: the Optimum Hyper Polish not the compound is that comparable to the M205 as far as being a finishing polish. I was thinking about getting some as well to cut down on some of the oils that are in the M205.
 
On my last white SS job I tried several polish/compounds and found UNO worked the best. Just adjust the pad to the hardness of the paint. It worked best, quickest and no dusting.
 
AbGilley89 said:
One more quick question :car: the Optimum Hyper Polish not the compound is that comparable to the M205 as far as being a finishing polish. I was thinking about getting some as well to cut down on some of the oils that are in the M205.



I haven't used the OHP, but yeah, AFAIK it's basically their version of M205.
 
Accumulator said:
That OHC/M205 combo works well if/when the paint isn't really hard (hard enough that you oughta use M105 instead).



The oils from M205 can be problematic even if you're not worried about concealing or LSP bonding; they can cause pseudo-holograms that look really awful in certain light. IPA isn't always enough to get those oils off/out of the paint either, I've done countless IPA wipes and still had to get out some PrepWash to finally remove everything.



Interesting product I got to try out in the UK, CarPro's Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser - is anti-static, isopropyl alcohol (IPA) based cleaner plus a limonene solvent designed to dissolve oil particles and remove polish residue to inspect the surface.



I had been using 10% P21S Total Auto Wash / 1:1 IPA /distilled water solution







 
Hey that CarPro's Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser sounds interesting. May try it out myself. They have it at AutoGeek.
 
TOGWT said:
Interesting product I got to try out in the UK, CarPro's Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser - is anti-static, isopropyl alcohol (IPA) based cleaner plus a limonene solvent designed to dissolve oil particles and remove polish residue to inspect the surface.






Huh, that does sound intersting! How effective is it on tenacious oils such as those in M205?
 
Alfisti said:
On my last white SS job I tried several polish/compounds and found UNO worked the best. Just adjust the pad to the hardness of the paint. It worked best, quickest and no dusting.



Interesting. I am in the middle of my first SS job, my parents' '00 Land Cruiser in white that's never been detailed. I already removed a lot of fingernail scratches and ugliness on the jambs using M105 by hand, and since I am by far most familiar with M105 as a compound, I thought of sticking to it with this first time for me SS instead of finally trying my unopened bottle of Uno. Maybe I'll use the M105 just on the hood, and then Uno on everything including the hood.



I thought about posting in Scottwax's old thread with a couple of Toyota's with white SS (it's actually google result #1 with the keywords I chose). This is the first time I wish I could try aggressive clay, as I have clayed twice (or more?) over certain parts of the car already, but while I wonder if such parts as the hood could use a third pass with clay, I feel like going straight to the polish. I fear a lot of paint transfer. I'm a very big fan of all the Optimum products I own, however I don't have any of their polishes, let alone the particular stuff that Scottwax found to be very effective on white SS.



Sorry- I just now realize this thread is about AIO's, I had blinders on as all I think about is how different SS is for me . . .
 
Johnny 5 said:
I already removed a lot of fingernail scratches and ugliness on the jambs using M105 by hand, and since I am by far most familiar with M105 as a compound, I thought of sticking to it with this first time for me SS instead of finally trying my unopened bottle of Uno. Maybe I'll use the M105 just on the hood, and then Uno on everything including the hood.

Will you be doing the rest by hand or machine? UNO, even by hand is dead easy and effective. I use a MF pad by hand in the areas my machine won't go and it works very well. By machine, just three small peas on a pad goes a long way.
 
Alfisti said:
Will you be doing the rest by hand or machine? UNO, even by hand is dead easy and effective. I use a MF pad by hand in the areas my machine won't go and it works very well. By machine, just three small peas on a pad goes a long way.



Machine, I have a Flex 3401 and PC 7424xp. I was thinking Flex and orange LC pads to start with, what do you think?



edit: might as well share Scottwax's thread here too, eh?

http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-brag/130978-oxidized-land-cruiser-tundra-dodge-ram.html
 
Flex and orange LC pad/UNO with a Flex will leave SS white LSP ready. The trick is to compound with a bit of pressure and then polish off with just the weight of the machine. That helps refine the finish with the same pad without adding anything.



I use Makita's equivalent of the Flex 3401 - BO6040. Once you get UNO working right (not too hard) you'll throw out all your other polishes. I have about 20 bottles of Menzerna, 3M, and Megs that I don't touch since perfecting the use of UNO. Nothing comes close.
 
Thanks for the advice and tips there, Alfisti, I appreciate the response. I have to say, that is a serious compliment you give to UNO! I will use some for sure, however it is unfortunate that I won't be able to make much of an opinion on its effectiveness for myself, since it is my first SS after all.
 
Don't be discouraged if you don't get UNO right. It may take some time. Just remember, unlike all other polishes, with UNO less is more. If you have issues use less and work it further. If you blunder and the residue builds up on the surface, go over the residue with pad at a slow speed and no pressure. Residue buildup means too much UNO used. Don't add more...just move to next panel and keep polishing.
 
Alfisti, you're right, this stuff is awesome!! hahaha. I did end up using M105 on the hood only, and then hit the rest of the car with green uber pads (another product first here for me), using the UNO. It is soooo much easier to use than the Meg's system. I was using speed 5-6 for compounding, and 4-5 for polishing, so far with the Flex only.



So after wiping off the polish, I mistakenly thought I saw some of the dreaded-impossible-to-remove residue that I have become so used to with the Meg's system, but in fact it already had wiped off instantly and immediately- they just happened to be spots that needed more correction, lol.



I just need to do a little more touch up on the hood, the A pillar, and the outer edges of the roof now. I'm planning on doing all of this with the PC, for now.



I am torn on what to try for LSP though. I have the untried/unopened Poxy, 476S, but also a couple of Meg's sealants, and a fancy Dodo Hard Diamond that is designed for white/light color, which could add some nice bling over a sealant. Help me choose! Help!
 
I may have missed it but has anyone mentioned M66 by Meguiars? Awesome cleaning and fast enough that if you needed to.. if the vehicle called for it.. you could bang out a step on a rotary, then use the PC to finish up with another dot or 2 of product.



Still use it to this day.. and nobody said you couldn't use a little SMAT products like 105 or 205 or UNO mixed in for the more mechanical action.
 
Johnny 5 said:
I am torn on what to try for LSP though. I have the untried/unopened Poxy, 476S, but also a couple of Meg's sealants, and a fancy Dodo Hard Diamond that is designed for white/light color, which could add some nice bling over a sealant. Help me choose! Help!

POXY..... :up
 
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