Bence's Fault: FK 1000P

:D



Oh, I forgot the cleaning! I soak my pads in APC overnight if they are *saturated* with 1000P. But you'll learn that if you pick up the right amounts into your pad, there will be hardly anything to clean out. (Accumulator will agree) Just don't massage 1000P into the deeper structure of the pad.
 
Bence said:
..you'll learn that if you pick up the right amounts into your pad, there will be hardly anything to clean out. (Accumulator will agree) ...
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Yeah, I judge how well I do by seeing how much LSP is still in the applicator when I've finished the job. Shouldn't be much in it at all.



Same ol' same ol' people use a zillion times more product than necessary and then have to work to get all that excess off the paint and out of the pad. Using FK425 on the applicator means you don't have to rely on a lot of FK1000P to provide lubrication too, so it's even easier to use the correct/minimal amount. If you're concerned with adequate coverage, just do multiple light applications (just as quick and easier than one heavy one anyhow).



This is another reason why MF is good for applying FK1000P (heh heh, even with my limited experience with the stuff I've figured that out :D ); easier to wash clean than a foam pad.
 
to those who have used a 4 inch pad , which colour pad did you use ?

and am I right to say it is safe to use it on a medium speed ? say 3 ? that is about the speed I use to spread liquid sealants anyway.

and work it in a fair bit yeah ?



and when you guys refer to the twist and transfer of 1000p onto the pad each time, how much area of the panels do you get out of that one transfer ?



I admit I am a lousy wax applying kind of guy, usually apply too thick if by hand, so machine is probably the way for me. so I want to get this right first.

but I might give the MF applicator method a try too.

last resort is with a yellow foam applicator, though I know I will have a very big possibility of applying too thickly.

dont have 425 at the moment, but i think i will make do with CG's speed wipe and OID .

will be dampening the foam or mf applicators before "priming" them.



correct me if im wrong, thanks !
 
Knuckle, you can layer it immediately. Wipe on, wait 15-20 mins, wipe off, wipe on again. However, I usually wait 20-30 minutes between layers.
 
hmm im curious about the pink wax too....Bence ? :)



im thinking of getting pink wax and use it together with 1000p .

wonder if it would be ok to inter layer both of them alternatively.

would it bond ?
 
Welcome back, Supe.



I agree...1000P is one of my top three LSP's.



Now if only you can teach Greg Nichols how to use it. HAHAHAHA.



Just kidding, Greg.
 
welcome back Supe :D



I was watching this last year and decided to go for it for winter this time. Did my first detail with it >3 weeks ago and was instantly a HUGE fan...



thin on, 20 mins to cure (in full sun or shade) and the easiest product I have ever tried to wipe off :D 2 layers and it looked amazing.



>3 weeks later and I have only foam washed the car and wheels and it still looks great. Dont see any reduction in dirt pickup but it cleans off really easy. Hope it will alst me through winter with some occasional OCW v2 top-ups after washing.



Thanks Bence - a real winner in my arsenal for sure :2thumbs:
 
cjbigcog said:
How is FK1000 on silver flake?
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I used it on the silver flake wheels on the MPV (very *HEAVY* flake) and it looks great on them. Better than the KSG I'd used on them previously, at least I think so (differences in this sort of stuff are pretty subtle IMO).



Buja- After I twist an applicator against the product in the tin, I then try to scrape as much product *back off* of the applicator as I can. I usually use a plastic razor blade for this. I try to keep just enough product on the applicator to provide some lubrication so the applicator glides smoothly.



When you think your applicator is out of LSP, try wiping it against some chrome or your head/tail lights (surfaces where the LSP is easy to see)...I bet you'll find that it sill leaves LSP on them.



Oddly enough, I find that I apply waxes thinner by machine and sealants thinner by hand. Not sure which group FK1000P will fall in though :nixweiss
 
Damon, you're welcome! :D



buja, the FK products are cross compatible and layerable immediately. They cure together.



The Pink is a reflective wet looking wax. If you like chrome-like reflections, it's definitely a must. It won't add much warmth like a bare hand carnauba though. It is very easy to apply and remove and gives an impressively slick surface.
 
I have to try Pink next, over the 1000P I think, but that will wait a while... I have the worlds biggest tin of 1000P to work through yet :lol:
 
EisenHulk said:
Welcome back, Supe.



I agree...1000P is one of my top three LSP's.



Now if only you can teach Greg Nichols how to use it. HAHAHAHA.



Just kidding, Greg.
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Thanks, Casey (and everyone else) :)



LoL, yeah, poor Greg... I teased him pretty hard about putting 1000p over the RMG.



Looks like you guys have the application process all sorted out now. I've used foam and MF applicators by hand, and red 4" pads by PC. PC (or some flavor of DA) is definitely the time saver. It also seems that it cures quicker when it's applied by DA. Dunno why. Maybe the friction/heat of the DA, but it really does save cure time. I wait until the stuff is really dry before removal. Someone asked how a thicker layer will affect the removal process. It certainly doesn't *help* to have a thick coat, but it's not gonna punish you for it the way Collinite 476S would. Just takes a bit more elbow grease. If you apply it with a PC, you're almost guaranteed to not put on too much.



*Sigh* looks like *I'm* not done ordering FK products, either. Bence just *had* to talk about Pink Wax, dint he? ;) Ah well, spring's not *too* far away, right?
 
yeah im planning to get some pink wax when i have some spare cash...



Supe: with the DA, what speed did you use and did you just quickly spread it or work it in a little ?



and i'm assuming the good old finger swipe test would apply too in this case ?
 
buja said:
yeah im planning to get some pink wax when i have some spare cash...



Supe: with the DA, what speed did you use and did you just quickly spread it or work it in a little ?



and i'm assuming the good old finger swipe test would apply too in this case ?
Click to expand...



I use speed six for everything with the PC. Even applying glazes/sealants/other lsp's. Alot of guys use slower speeds with just as good of results. I don't work it like a polish by any means, but I do go slow enough to work it a bit. And the finger swipe is just the ticket for 1000P.



I applied another coat to my car three days ago, and was shocked at how long it took to cure in the colder weather. It was around 55 degrees or so in my garage. It took three hours to cure enough for removal. This was by hand, btw.



Edit: this is probably my own superstition, but I always do follow-up coats by hand, not by PC. I'm always afraid that the additional friction, etc, you get when using the PC adversely effects the previous layers of LSP. So I use the PC for the first, then do the additional layers by hand.
 
Maybe I missed it somewhere in here, but is this a product like #16, SG, 845 that will go over rubber and textured trim without any problems, or does it stain?
 
Honestly, Setec, I don't know if it'll stain trm, etc.. Everytime I've gotten it on stuff I didn't mean to get it on, I've wiped it off immediately. Haven't had any problems, though.:nixweiss
 
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