Beginner detailer

K

karolra10

New member
Hi I am just getting into this and need your help on deciding whether to get a new pc 7427xp or the meguiars "DA" g110 and if so what else should i get withe either one such as backing plates, counterweights, pads and brushes thanks
 
Here's the novel I put together for my first detail after lots and lots of research. The listed products are just what I ended up using, there are other options out there. A couple items are specific for my car, but you'll get the idea. I may have gone overboard for the wash steps, but it all worked out.





EDIT: Last 'Additonal Note' learned the hard way this past weekend.





Pix: http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/119967-newbie-s-first-detail.html



(NOTE: Don't use all 4 polishes, it depends on your correction needs).





WASH/PAINT CORRECTION/DETAIL STEPS

(cool shaded area out of direct sunlight)



FULL WASH (as needed)

NOTE: For a full blown wash perform the wheel/wheel well cleaning steps in the Wheels/Wheel Wells section first



PRE-WASH

Spray entire car with 1.5 oz : 64 oz Optimum No Rinse (ONR) dilution (ONR Pre-Wash) (spray extra on heavily soiled areas)

Rinse entire vehicle with hose via a generic nozzle

Foam entire car with Gilmour 75QGFMR Foamaster (DP Xtreme Foam Formula shampoo per directions)

Utilize 2 Sheepskin Mitts (SSM) , the 1st for top panels and 2nd for lower panels (below door guards and bumpers)

Working top down, agitate with SSM spraying additional foam between SSM and panels while wiping (straight non-circular passes)

Agitate wheels with generic wash mitt (GWM) (omit if Wheels/Wheel Wells detail steps were implemented)

Flood rinse entire car



WASH

Throughly rinse SSM and GWMs

Wash the rest of the vehicle top down utilizing the, 2 bucket, 2 SSM, Grit Guard method (Shampoo: Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo)

1st SSM for top panels, 2nd SSM for lower panels (below door guards and bumpers)

Clean wheels with GWM (omit if Wheels/Wheel Wells detail steps were implemented)

Wash inside of wheel wells with extended handle wheel well brush (omit if Wheels/Wheel Wells detail steps were implemented)

Wash undersides of bumpers and wheelbase with GWM

Flood rinse

Use air compressor to remove hidden water

Dry (Waffle Weave MF) – omit if followed by claying





CLAY (~ every 6 months or as needed)

2'x2' Sections

ONR Clay Lube (1 oz : 64 oz ONR dilution)

Clay (SONUS SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay)

Wipe/buff with clay only MF towel





PAINT CORRECTION (Annually)

Shake each polish well prior to use

2'x2' Sections

Work in a broad overlapping vertical/horizontal motion with PC

Prime entire dry pads with appropriate polish

Start with least aggressive polish first, then inspect. Go more aggressive if need be (ordered from most (105) to least (FPII) aggressive)



TAPE

3M Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape for Delicate Surfaces

Tape off all plastic trim, moldings, etc. (to make life easier I removed simple pieces like plates, kidneys, fender grills, fogs rims, etc.)

Remove tape after paint correction



1) Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound 105 – Uber or Lake Country Orange Pad

Apply a single bead of 105 in “X” pattern on primed pad

Smear section with PC off

PC at Level 3 to distribute SIP (cover area ~ 15 seconds)

PC at Level 6 with moderate pressure based on marring to be corrected (rate: 1” - 3” per second) (~ 2-4 minutes)

PC at Level 5 with light pressure (rate: 1” - 3” per second) (~ 1-2 minutes)

Wipe with 105 only MF towel

Inspect w/ light

Repeat if necessary



2) Menzerna SIP (PO83Q) – Uber or Lake Country Orange Pad

Apply a single bead of SIP in “X” pattern on primed pad

Smear section with PC off

PC at Level 3 to distribute SIP (cover area ~ 15 seconds)

PC at Level 6 with moderate pressure based on marring to be corrected (rate: 1” - 3” per second) until it's 75% broken down (~ 2-4 minutes)

PC at Level 5 with light pressure (rate: 1” - 3” per second) until completely broken down (becomes translucent) (~ 1-2 minutes)

Wipe with SIP only MF towel

Inspect w/ light

Repeat if necessary



3) Menzerna Super Finish “Nano” (P106FA) – Uber Green Pad or Lake Country White Pad

Spray section with 50/50 alcohol/water mixture, wipe with clean Pre-Nano MF towel

Apply a single bead of Nano in “X” pattern on primed pad

Smear section with PC off

PC at Level 3 to distribute Nano (cover area ~ 15 seconds)

PC at Level 6 with very light pressure based on final correction needed (rate: 2” - 4” per second) until it's 75% broken down (~ 2-4 minutes)

PC at Level 5 with no pressure (rate: 3” - 4” per second) until completely broken down (becomes translucent) (~ 1-2 minutes)

Wipe with Nano only MF towel

Inspect w/ light

Repeat if necessary



4) Menzerna Final Polish II (PO87MC) – Uber Blue Pad

Spray section with 50/50 alcohol/water mixture, wipe with clean Pre-FPII MF towel

Apply a single bead of FPII in “X” pattern on primed pad

Smear section with PC off

PC at Level 3 to distribute FPII (cover area ~ 15 seconds)

PC at Level 6 with very little pressure based on final correction needed (rate: 2” - 4” per second) until it's 75% broken down (~ 2-4 minutes)

PC at Level 5 with no pressure (rate: 3” - 4” per second) until completely broken down (becomes translucent) (~ 1-2 minutes)

Wipe with FPII only MF towel

Inspect w/ light

Repeat if necessary





SEALANT x 2 (~every 6 Months)

Shake sealant well prior to use

4'x6' Sections

Work in a broad overlapping vertical/horizontal motion with PC

Prime entire dry pads with appropriate sealant



Spring: Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ) – Uber Black Pad or Lake Country Red Pad

Spray section with 50/50 alcohol/water mixture, wipe with clean Pre-FMJ MF towel

Apply a single bead of FMJ in “X” pattern on primed pad

PC at Level 3.5 - 4 with no pressure (rate: 5” - 6” per second) until it dries

Remove with FMJ only MF towel

Inspect w/ light

6 to 8 hours before applying 2nd coat



OR



Fall: Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109 (109) – Uber Black Pad or Lake Country Red Pad

Spray section with 50/50 alcohol/water mixture, wipe with clean Pre-109 MF towel

Apply a single bead of 109 in “X” pattern on primed pad

PC at Level 3.5 - 4 with no pressure (rate: 5” - 6” per second) until it dries

Remove with 109 only MF towel

Inspect w/ light

~30 minutes before applying 2nd coat



WAX x 2 (~every 2-3 Months or as needed)

1/2 Panel Sections

Prime dry foam applicator pad with wax



Chemical Guys Pete's 53' – Black Pearl Signature Paste Wax (CGP)

Apply 30 minutes after final 109 application or 6 to 8 hours after final FMJ application

Lightly coat the applicator pad with wax (do not use too much, a thin layer is all that is needed)

Apply with no pressure (rate: 5” - 6” per second) to distribute (~ 45-60 seconds)

Remove with CGP only MF towel

Inspect w/ light

Apply 2nd coat





ADDITONAL EXTERNALS



Wheels/Wheel Wells

Allow wheels to cool

Remove wheel(s) from vehicle



Wheels/Tires

Clean tires (outer walls) with Westley's Bleche-Wite (Apply to rubber, scrub with generic brush, wait 2-3 minutes then wipe with a damp rag and rinse)

To remove old wheel weight residue apply Goof-Off (GO) to rag and clean affected area (be very careful with GO and only apply on the affected areas) Immediately clean the areas you applied GO to with generic non-acid based All Purpose Cleaner (APC) utilizing a new rag and rinse

Clean entire wheel with P21S Wheel Cleaner Gel per directions

Apply 2 coats of Wheel Wax (WW) to the rears (inside and outside) and 3 coats to the fronts (inside and outside) with WW only MF towel and remove with WW buff only MF towel



Wheel Wells

Clean with soap, water, elbow grease and a wheel well only brush

Apply generic Armor All or the like to the internal wheel well plastic

Be very careful when working around brake lines, sensors, bushings, etc

HINT: I used Westley's Bleche-Wite for inside the wheel wells and it worked great (but see following note)

NOTE: Avoid getting solvents/cleaners anywhere near brake lines, sensors, bushings, etc. Clean said areas with plain water, not worth the risk of prematurely deteriorating any of these seals/components with a solvent/cleaner in my book and my M is not a show car



Final Wheel Steps

Reinstall wheels (torque to 88ft-lbs, and when done with the detail drive for 15-30 minutes and re-torque)

Apply Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel (OOBTG) to tire outer wall with OOBTG only tire dressing sponge



Exhaust Tips

Remove heavy build up with 1oz : 10 oz Simple Green (SG) dilution and generic MF (GMF)

Rub Mother's Billet (MB) into the external and internal portions of the exhaust tips by hand

Let set for 2-5 minutes (let the MB do the work)

Utilize a drill and Mother's Micro Power Ball (MMPB) to clean/buff the inside of the exhaust tips

Clean/buff the outside of the exhaust tips with a MB only GMF

For hard to remove internal exhaust tip carbon build up, apply MB to Grade # 0000 steel wool, rub in, let set for 2-5 minutes and re-rub (repeat if needed)

Cleanup internal exhaust tips with a drill and MMPB

NOTE: Grade # 0000 steel wool can be carefully used on the exhaust tip edges (copper wool can be used in place of steel wool)





INTERNALS

Clean up door jams with GMF and 1.5 oz : 64oz ONR dilution (ONR Pre-Wash)

Folex for heavily soiled/stained carpets

Vacuum = Vacuum (pretty straight forward on this one, but to be fancy alter the grain of the vacuum path)

Scotch-Guard per directions can be used to protect carpets and mats

A fine brush and/or Q-tips are nice for the hard to reach areas of the dash/vents/etc.

Apply Aerospace 303 to all internal vinyl and wipe clean with an Aerospace 303 only MF towel

Zymol leather conditioner and cleaner for the leather per directions

HINT: The cup holder pops right out and is much easier to clean when removed

NOTE: Leatherique is suppose to be the bomb for all interior leather, but I haven't tried it so I can't comment



Glass

Stoner's Invisible Glass (SIG) and a clean SIG only MF towel (clean with one side of the SIG MF towel and “buff/remove” with the other side)



Engine Bay

There are better options out there, but this works for me

Mine looks great with nominal regular maintenance (every time I wash or QD), water in a spray bottle and a GMF towel

Finish with CD-2 Engine Detailer as needed





ADDITIONAL NOTES

If you're a total Noob as I was before my first detail and unfamiliar with the PC, attach the generic backing/white pad that comes with the PC, prime it with any given polish or sealant and try it out on something other than your vehicle (I used the flat surface of an indoor stainless steel garbage can). I went with various speeds and rates in order to get comfortable with the PC. I was much more comfortable using it on my ride the first time once I did this.



Ensure the extension cord connected to the PC is at least the same gauge as the PC power cord. If not, this will overwork the PC motor and in time cause premature PC burnout.



The “over-shoulder” method works great when utilizing the hose and extension corded PC.



A supply of Powder-Free Nitrile gloves on hand is a great idea.



A step stool or small bucket to sit on will save your back when working on the lower panels.



A hand pressure pump spray bottle filled with plain water is a great substitute for a hose when rinsing tight areas (door jams, engine bay, etc.).



Dawn Power Degreaser works great for cleaning up the pads after polishing (spin dry on the PC and lay out on Grit Guards for final air dry).



Grit Guards are also useful to lay out Sheepskin Mitts and sponges to air dry.



Wool-lite and the “gentle” cycle in the washing machine works great for cleaning MF towels (do NOT use fabric softener or dryer sheets and wash the MF towels that have heavy dirt and build up separate from the others).



This may seem like blatant common sense, but I learned this the hard way. If you have a nice wax and decide to 'pop' it out of the container and apply it to the applicator be very careful. By definition, wax is slippery.....no kidding Sherlock Holmes (guess I'm still a few credits shy of my Bachelor's Degree in common sense). I 'popped' mine out and proceeded to drop it onto the floor and watch it roll for about 2 feet picking up kinds of debris. I cleaned it up with a toothpick and 15 minutes of effort. In the end I lost about 15% - 20% of my supply (a nice chunk broke off on impact). Live and learn.









BETWEEN FULL WASHES



Process 1 (~15 minutes):

For light surface dust clean up

STEP 1: Utilize a California Car Duster (CCD) to very carefully remove the dust (lightly drag just the tips of the CCD across the surface, shaking off the CCD after each pass)

STEP 2: Working top down, 1 panel at a time (or half a panel for the hood and roof). Mist each panel with 3 oz : 64oz ONR dilution (ONR QD)

STEP 3: Remove with 2 quality MF towels. The first to wipe, not scrub, off the ONR QD and the 2nd MF for a final wipe down

STEP 4 (Optional): Finish Kare 425 Ultra Slick Poly Wipe Spray Detailer (425QD) and 425QD only MF





Process 2 (~30 minutes):

For heavier soiling (rain spots, etc..)

STEP 1: ONR wash per directions utilizing the 2 bucket, 2 SSM, Grit Guard method

STEP 2 (Optional): Wax or finish with 425QD and 425QD only MF
 
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