Been a while, need a refresher!

stang03

stang03

New member
If this is the wrong section, sorry, please move if need to


Ok, so my paint is due some work, and it has been a while since I have done the whole gamut of full on cleaning/polishing/waxing.....


This is what I am looking to do, so I need proper product selection as well as pad selection....


Clay Bar

SSR3

SSR1

Polish w/ Sealant

White Diamond

EX-P

Natty's Red


So does this look like a good range, and what pads for each??? I figured I could go from SSR2.5 to SSR1 instead or using SSR3, but I am wanting to get these nasty swirls gone.


I have a PC7424 and was looking at the Lake County 5.5" CCS Pads.


Thanks guys!!



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welcome back :howdy

like Ron said SSR2.5 would be a good starting point with the orange pad.
SSR3 works much better with a Flex or rotary and is not really very good with a PC.
Work slow and one section at a time with the SSR2.5 until you know what it will take to get the paint looking like you want it. Then work the rest of the car the same way. After you can either make another pass with SSR2.5 and a white pad, or if it came out really good after the orange, you can move to SSR1 with a black pad.
Polish w/ Sealant is next with another black pad, followed by White Diamond with a red pad at medium speed. Then EX-P on a red pad at low speed. I would do 2 coats and then wait a day before putting the Natty's Red on by hand.
hope this helps
 
SSR3 is pretty stout. I can't recall EVER having to use it for an entire polish process on ANY vehicle I've ever worked on. Spot work, yes. But doing an entire car with SSR3 is pretty wild. You'll most likely need to follow with something a little more strong than SSR1 to get rid of all the hazing.
 
Pockets said:
welcome back :howdy

like Ron said SSR2.5 would be a good starting point with the orange pad.
SSR3 works much better with a Flex or rotary and is not really very good with a PC.
Work slow and one section at a time with the SSR2.5 until you know what it will take to get the paint looking like you want it. Then work the rest of the car the same way. After you can either make another pass with SSR2.5 and a white pad, or if it came out really good after the orange, you can move to SSR1 with a black pad.
Polish w/ Sealant is next with another black pad, followed by White Diamond with a red pad at medium speed. Then EX-P on a red pad at low speed. I would do 2 coats and then wait a day before putting the Natty's Red on by hand.
hope this helps
Click to expand...

Hey Pockets, granted I haven't worked with SSR2.5 so this is an assumption on my part based solely on experience with PwS - while furthering the discussion of product - ... couldn't you skip the SSR1 step and go straight to PwS with a white (polishing) pad? You clean up any micro marring left behind, burnish the finish, and add a layer of protection at the same time; thus acheiving the same results and eliminating a step. Especially considering the subsequent WD step.
 
Mr. Clean said:
Hey Pockets, granted I haven't worked with SSR2.5 so this is an assumption on my part based solely on experience with PwS - while furthering the discussion of product - ... couldn't you skip the SSR1 step and go straight to PwS with a white (polishing) pad? You clean up any micro marring left behind, burnish the finish, and add a layer of protection at the same time; thus acheiving the same results and eliminating a step. Especially considering the subsequent WD step.
Click to expand...


yes that step could be skipped ...it really depends on what he wants the PwS to do ... clean or protect :hmmm:
 
Poorboy said:
yes that step could be skipped ...it really depends on what he wants the PwS to do ... clean or protect :hmmm:
Click to expand...

As I noted, my thought was it would clean, polish and protect.

Mr. Clean said:
... go straight to PwS with a white (polishing) pad? You clean up any micro marring left behind, burnish the finish, and add a layer of protection at the same time; ...
Click to expand...

Just seemed that it (PwS) offered a much streamlined approach. IIRC, you and I had a conversation a year or so back discussing the benefits of following PwS w/EX-P or just going with a second application of PwS and you leaned towards the latter of the two options. Understanding, of course, that over time your opinion could have changed (and this was well before WD made the scene).:)
 
Mr. Clean said:
As I noted, my thought was it would clean, polish and protect.



Just seemed that it (PwS) offered a much streamlined approach. IIRC, you and I had a conversation a year or so back discussing the benefits of following PwS w/EX-P or just going with a second application of PwS and you leaned towards the latter of the two options. Understanding, of course, that over time your opinion could have changed (and this was well before WD made the scene).:)
Click to expand...

no opinion hasn't really changed but over time I listen to how people use products and they all seem to vary. For instance I know people who use PwS by hand and expect little to no cleaning ability only protection, there are others that have told me of removing wet sanding marks with PwS.
Technique and expectations seem to have a wide variance with this product.:hmmm:
 
Poorboy said:
no opinion hasn't really changed but over time I listen to how people use products and they all seem to vary. For instance I know people who use PwS by hand and expect little to no cleaning ability only protection, there are others that have told me of removing wet sanding marks with PwS.
Technique and expectations seem to have a wide variance with this product.:hmmm:
Click to expand...

Interesting that. My thought is usually to defer to the product maker's intended use since that is where/how the formulation is derived. In the case of not needing any cleaning/correcting I have EX and EX-P on hand. But that's just me...and well that may say alot. :D
 
Mr. Clean said:
Interesting that. My thought is usually to defer to the product maker's intended use since that is where/how the formulation is derived. In the case of not needing any cleaning/correcting I have EX and EX-P on hand. But that's just me...and well that may say alot. :D
Click to expand...

We generally have the first go at a products uses and application, but this is no exact science and I have to depend on the customers to be inventive and find different uses and application methods. I keep an open mind and would never have known what extreme uses Bug Squash would have without one of the BMW race clubs having experimented at a track with rubber and tar removal or the extreme help from Coastal Eddie in the development and uses for APC from commercial fleet cleaning to using on carpet and fine leather.
I believe there is a learning curve with every product produced and even with all the experience between my chemist and myself we still will never have all the answers :)
 
Poorboy said:
... the extreme help from Coastal Eddie in the development and uses for APC from commercial fleet cleaning to using on carpet and fine leather. ...
Click to expand...
Great guy and a literal treasure trove of knowledge to be tapped from that man! I only wish he had more time for these forums.

Poorboy said:
...I believe there is a learning curve with every product produced and even with all the experience between my chemist and myself we still will never have all the answers :)
Click to expand...
Absolutely! Sure there are the occasions where we may stray a bit from a product's intended use and acheive success, but IME the majority of the time if you stick within the confines of that usage the product either works as intended or it doesn't (taking into consideration internet hype, marketing and etc.).
 
Mr. Clean said:
Great guy and a literal treasure trove of knowledge to be tapped from that man! I only wish he had more time for these forums.


Absolutely! Sure there are the occasions where we may stray a bit from a product's intended use and achieve success, but IME the majority of the time if you stick within the confines of that usage the product either works as intended or it doesn't (taking into consideration internet hype, marketing and etc.).
Click to expand...


Indeed he is :bigups Generally I agree :cool: mfgs do put a lot of time and effort into directions to make the use of their product easier or as intended.
 
Pockets said:
welcome back :howdy

like Ron said SSR2.5 would be a good starting point with the orange pad.
SSR3 works much better with a Flex or rotary and is not really very good with a PC.
Work slow and one section at a time with the SSR2.5 until you know what it will take to get the paint looking like you want it. Then work the rest of the car the same way. After you can either make another pass with SSR2.5 and a white pad, or if it came out really good after the orange, you can move to SSR1 with a black pad.
Polish w/ Sealant is next with another black pad, followed by White Diamond with a red pad at medium speed. Then EX-P on a red pad at low speed. I would do 2 coats and then wait a day before putting the Natty's Red on by hand.
hope this helps
Click to expand...

Awesome! Got me an order goin!!

So how bout speeds on each??
 
So, I tackled the hood today!

Washed and Clay Bar'd the whole car and did the following on the hood

SSR2.5 w/ Orange
SSR1 w/ White
PwS w/ Black
White Diamond w/ Red
Ex-P x2 w/ Red
Natty's Red by hand

I figure I should have let the EX-P cure for a day before I did the Natty's; is this really a big deal or can I go back and put on EX-P, let it cure and then hit it with Natty's???

Its slick as all get out, and about 90% of the swirls and imperfections, from what I can tell, are gone!

Best part of working with Poorboy's are the scents of the products!!
 
Another question here for a refresher....now that I am done with the process on my car, what is the best process to maintain??
 
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