baked on klasse

SVR

SVR

Dream Machines
On monday morning I forgot that I had put on a coat of SG the day before and drove to work.

End result, a very hard coating which was damn difficult to remove but actually left a very nice finish.



Wouldn't recommend to do it but at least it shows that SG is damn durable

I wonder what the passing motorists thought when they stopped alongside me at the lights and saw my alloy wheels.



Won't do that again.:nono
 
The 24 hour wait is the OTHER alternative to Bill North's WOWO method. There are 2 groups of Klasse SG users that I know of - use BN's WOWO or apply and wait 24 hours. Both produce exceptional shine.



On the other hand, if you had trobles taking off the "mature" SG, you may have applied too much. Whichever camp you are in, less is more, thinner is better, yada, yada, yada.
 
Normally I wait 24 hours between application and removal

On paint I apply just the right amount, where you can hardly see any on the surface and have no trouble removing



With klasse your dead right, less is more
 
I have left SG on the car for 48 hrs before. I simply washed the vehicle and it removed the SG residue no problem. Then I applied another coat. Washing saved me the buffing step.
 
stevet said:
I have left SG on the car for 48 hrs before...Washing saved me the buffing step.
Click to expand...



Just goes to show how different people go for different approaches; I'd much rather do the buffing than wash :D
 
I would like to register the third group of Klasse users who only wait about 20 minutes or so with phenomenal results.
 
How about the fourth group? Those who get lousy results with Klasse no matter what they do. There seem to be a number of very skilled detailers at this site who have nothing but problems with SG.
 
Yes and I would pay good money to find out why some have so many problems. I have tried alot of material and a little, clayed and not clayed, waited longer and shorter times, applied in hot and cool temps and in low and very high dewpoints, on cars with nothing on them and on a Audi with incredible amounts of heaven knows what on it, BUT the first app has always been on a new vehicle within two weeks at most after delivery, always in the shade - a garage- and the results have always been astounding.

This appears to be the one thing that even I cannot screw up.

There is a variable but I cannot figure out what it is.



I hope that those who report problems really have had problems and do not have an agenda. Just a thought.
 
You won't find many posters on this forum who have an "agenda." For the most part, those complaints have come from very knowledgable individuals who I have come to really respect.



Personally, I've had nothing but good experiences with KSG and love the product.
 
I tend to agree with you also, and to be fair the same could be said for those of us who laud the product also I guess.



Like I said I really would pay good money to find out why for so many of us it works perfectly and for some it does not work at all.
 
We had a thread about this a few weeks ago. The real key seems to be spreading SG thin. But, I suspect that some of us are having problems because SG doesn't get along with particular kinds of paint (DISCLAIMER: I have zero evidence in support of this hypothesis, and this is pure 100% speculation).
 
I just sent this in a response to a PM. Everyone has their own preferred method. In a nutshell here is mine





AIO



Use a 4" yellow foamie. Spritz well using EO W&S to prime the pad. This helps to get the AIO on THIN. Pour a nickle sized dab of AIO on the foamie and fold it in half, slowly, to distribute the AIO over the surface. Don't squeeze, just fold. That is enough to do 1/2 your hood. Immediately wipe off using a clean dry MF towel. If you see some streaking, that is normal, just refold the MF to expose a clean surface and wipe intil streaks are gone. Move on the the other side of the hood, this time, and every time after, only 1 light spritz of EO W&S and a nickle's worth of AIO. Work you way around tour vehicle in the same fashion as above - apply, the immediately wipe down.



SG



You can begin this step immediately after finishing the AIO layer.



Take a clean MF towel and soak it thoroughly with water. Wring it out, but not completely dry (if you did wring it out from this point, you would only get 1 or 2 tablespoons more water). Fold in half the into 1/3 along the long side. Apply a thin line (about 1/8" to 1/4" wide down the middle of the damp MF long-ways - leaving about 1 1/2 inch at either end empty. Wipe over 1/2 your hood. Immediately wipe off with a clean dry MF. Again this could result in some streaking. Use Sonus Acrylit Spritz to remove any stubborn streaks . Work your way around the vehicle as before. About half way, rinse out the MF applicator complete, wring almost dry and continue til finished.



When completed, you may notice some streaking you missed during the wipe-down. Get them off now because it will be tougher tomorrow.



Here is the important part - wait a minimum of 24 hours before adding another layer of SG - this being at 80 degrees F. The wait time will be temperature and humidity dependent. When temperatures are below 50 degrees F, you are looking at a wait of 4 days. The SG needs time to cure (which is different from drying) as it is completing a chemicla transformation during the cure.



Rewash if necessary before subsequent SG layers. You can stop after 3 or 4 since the shine will be maximized at that point. You can top with carnuba or UPP or just keep adding SG.



Hope this helps
 
Many people here have used UPP over SG. I have UPP on SG now.



According to 4*, UPP can be layered (meaning, the solvents in it will not remove prior layers of a sealant).
 
I have used the Klasse SG and I usually remove it inhalf an hour. Result was good. Buy the way guys, what is WOWO method?
 
Use AIO to remove it with some Acrylic Spritz sprayed on the foam pad or clay w/lube. I've heard from others that clay with lube works good also. THe dust you picked up is causing the problem. Since it was cured that wind just made it rock hard. If you where in the sun that would make it nastier. Hopefull it didn't make swirls or mirroring.

I had a customer do that to me. I told the guy I would come back in the morning to remove the SG and his wife took it to the store. Yes, a '67 Chevelle to the store! We where in a middle of a week long bumper to bumper detail.

I use the PC to apply and did the whole car again with AIO, then applied SG all over again.

OH! You need to stope smoking the sticky icky buddy! LOL. Come on just a joke.
 
Come on the 24 hr method is the ONLY way to apply SG. It doesn't even harden totally till then. I've done some 'regular' cars and left the SG on for 4 hrs. Humidity & temp plays a key role.
 
Klasse SG-

Residues should be dry when you buff them. If the residues are still wet, you are using too much product.

After sufficient drying time do a quick swipe test with your finger. If no smearing or drag is evident, the residue is ready to be removed.

SG is formulated from hard resins and therefore must be given sufficient time to cross-link, >24 hours, or anytime up to 72 hour period is recommended before other layers / products are applied, this provides better durability and a deeper shine
 
audipower, when I began to read the some of the posts regarding problems with Klasse I also suspected ambient temp and or dewpoint as the culprit but I have since eliminated them, through personal experience. I don't recall the exact humidity level but during one application the dewpoint was in the low to mid seventies that I am certain of and the results were, as always, perfect.
 
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