Badly Oxidized, no CC

T

Threadhead

New member
Really need some advice on this one.

I have a 94 Honda Civic that is badly oxidized. It was left outside for about 1.5 years, exposed to the elements.

What I need to do is get the paint looking as best as possible so the owner can sell it. It doesn't have to be perfect after all, it's a 10 y.o. car. But the rest of it is in immaculate condition. Because of it's low NADA value, repainting is not an option.

What has me worried is that I am 99% sure that it DOES NOT have a clear coat. The color is white and I don't think they CC'd cars of that color at that time. So my first idea was to tackle it with the rotary and a medium cut compound, maybe even a wool pad, but I am terrified of burning through the paint. I don't have a PC, but would be willing to get one if it's the right thing to use.

Help! What would you guys do? :confused:
 
I had an '89 Ford that was CC'd, so your '94 is definitely in the time span for the painting technique.

I am sure that everyone will agree that starting out with the 'mildest', like SSR1 (my alltime favorite) by hand with a light pad and working your way up, will keep you out of trouble.

I would also definitely get a PC.

I sleep with mine.
 
freedre said:
I had an '89 Ford that was CC'd, so your '94 is definitely in the time span for the painting technique.
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As far as I know, all other colors were CC'd. I think they just believed that white didn't need CC.

I am sure that everyone will agree that starting out with the 'mildest', like SSR1 (my alltime favorite) by hand with a light pad and working your way up, will keep you out of trouble.
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Isn't SSR1 a polish?

Working your way up? to SSR2, 2.5, 3? Shouldn't I start with 2.5 or 3? I'm confused.

By hand, are you sure? I might be willing to try it once, but I think this could end up being a real elbow killer. I would think that SSR1 by hand would be too light for oxidation, no?

I would also definitely get a PC. I sleep with mine.
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Well, it might be time I finally break down and get one. Heck, my wife already hates all of my cars, might as well giver her something else to despise :naughty
 
I think the general consensus here is that if you are going to use an abrasive, but are unsure of the paint or damage you could cause, you should start with the least abrasive technique available to you.
 
A PC will not burn the paint but given the cost and time it might be better if you took it to a local detailer who knows what he/she is doing with a rotary. Probably cheaper than the cost of a PC, backing plate, pads and products you would need to do the job. Unless your using it as an excuse to buy all that to get going :lol - then by all means - you will need a PC - I would get Poorboy's SSR2.5 and some edge pads (probably yellow, green and blue). The start with the green pad and 2.5 and move up to the yellow if you need it. You might (to be safe) want to get some ssr1 too to follow up with - and some EX-P to seal it all in and make it shine!
 
I JUST DID A WHITE 97 INTEGRA WHICH LOOKED LIKE A WHITE CHALK BOARD WHEN I STARTED.I TRIED MY P.C. WITH A LAKE COUNTRY YELLOW PAD AND SOME HT-300. IT TOOK MOST OF THE OXIDATION AND SCUFF MARKS OUT BUT IT TOOK ME OVER AN HOUR JUST TO DO THE HOOD ON#5 SPEED.YOU COULD STILL SEE SCRATCHES AND SWIRLS IN THE CLEAR COAT SO I TOOK OUT MY MILWAKEE AND A 3-M WHITE CUTTING PAD WITH SOME HT-300 AND DID THE TRUNK. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! NO MORE SCRACHES,OXIDATION,DEEP SWIRL MARKS JUST A LOT OF DUST EVERYWARE. I FINISHED THE JOB WITH SOME PRESTA SWIRL REMOVER AND PRESTA FAST WAX ON MY P.C. YOU CAN TRY YOUR ROTARY BUT MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE SPEED LOW AND KEEP YOUR PAD FLAT ON THE PAINT.WITH A SOFT BUFFING PAD YOU SHOULD DO FINE. P.S. STAY AWAY FROM THE EDGES OF THE CAR ,THE PAINT AND CLEAR COAT IS MUCH THINNER. GOOD LUCK!
 
I just did a 1966 Comet SS red paint job that had never been garaged. Needless to say after 38 years in the CA sun the paint looked like a pale orange/chalk color. I used DACP with a PC and was able to bring back the original shine with no problems. Just took time but it was cool.
 
Ive had wonderful success using both Poorboy's Professional Polish and Polish w/ Carnuba to remove oxidation. Those are both non-abrasive chemical cleaners if ive got it correct.

You could use them by hand I believe. Im lazy so ive only used them with the PC. You could try out one of these (AIO would probably work too) to take off the oxidation, and then follow with something abrasive to attack just the swirls if needed.




ALSO! I reccomend that you tape off all textured trim. When your doing anything to it, some white paint is going to come off. If that gets into the trim... you will have a VERY hard time getting it out :) thats my experience at least. So be careful.
 
Hey Brian - your new in town so I'll be sweet :) - STOP SHOUTING!!! :lol

in internet terms all caps is SHOUTING AGGGHHH AGGHHHHH AGAAAHHHHHHH -

;) - I don't think he has a rotary or PC right now.
 
i was just trying to help someone out. sorry i was shouting at all of you. im new to this internet stuff.
 
I do have a rotary, but it has been a very long time since I used it for cars. So I would say I have some experience, but it's not recent and not with the new pad and compounds/polishes. But, I'm not afraid, IF the danger is relatively low.

Went out and looked at the paint again, and I'd swear on a stack of bibles that there is no clear coat. The only way I know for sure to tell is to sand a small area and see if the color coat bleeds through on the paper. Pretty sure I still have some 2K grit somwhere and can find an inconspicuous spot. Anyone know another way?

As far as getting a PC is concerned... I never really needed one because I never take my cars to the car wash and they just don't develop any swirls or scratches I can't get out by hand. BUT, I am a man and have always lived by the mantra, "a tool a day keeps my wife out of the garage and if I only had a keg-o-lator and a toilet there would be no reason to enter the house." So I don't really need to justify the cost. If it will do the job and that's what I need, the I'll get one.

The PC with DACP or SSRx, are you sure it will cut the oxidation?
 
BRIAN said:
i was just trying to help someone out. sorry i was shouting at all of you. im new to this internet stuff.
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No offense taken or given. It's just very hard to read anything typed in ALL CAPS.

TOOK OUT MY MILWAKEE AND A 3-M WHITE CUTTING PAD WITH SOME HT-300
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What is HT-300? I'm not familiar with that.
 
Threadhead said:
The only way I know for sure to tell is to sand a small area and see if the color coat bleeds through on the paper.
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You should be able to do the same thing with a dark colored applicator and rubbing compound. Single stage paint will cling to the applicator and discolor it. This might be a safer approach than wet sanding, at this point.

I think.
 
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