Bad experience at a local body shop

N

nate010753

New member
I took my 4-runner in to get the rear corner panel repairs it got damaged in a garage. The folks who did the work did a very poor job with the repair. When they paintined the part they left a run which I am guessing wil have to be wetsanded out. There is also some sort of sediment or air bubbles that dried in the paint, again I am assuming that wetsanding will level that rough off. Perhaps the worst problem I am facing now is that there is overspray covering more than 2/3rds of my truck. What is the best way to get that out? clay? I don't think you can polish or compound it out. I am really hoping wetsanding isn't the answer here. I also do not want to take it back to the same shop to get it fixed. As it is the guy isn't returning my calls. What do you guys think for removing the overspray?



Thanks for any feedback

Dennis
 
did the insurance company pay for it if so tell them the job stinks and you wnat it redone again then find a good shop.if you didn't pay them stop payment or cancell the check asap
 
you can take it back to them, they have to fix it, and if they mess it up again, then you can have them pay another shop to fisx their mistakes....happens a lot, but get the insurance agent involved....no sense in you getting troubled with it....
 
Ok I'll try the clay first and see how that goes. Its suppose to be nice outside so I'll spend the day at it. But the inside of the door it completely rough and no amount of clay will get that out. Also I do not think the clay will remove the sediment from the small area they had to paint. I didn't go through insurance and I paid in full already cash. :( no recourse there. I will confront the shop owner although I am expecting him to do very little for me. Its just a shame how some shops , people take so little pride in the work that they do.
 
It's appearant that wet sanding is definately needed. If any defects are in the finish like bubbles or dirt, sanding is the only alternative. That will level out the fresh finish and make things look clearer. If you paid for the repair already, you won't have any recourse against the shop unless it's paint failure. The manuacturer could stand behind it, if the prep was done correctly. It looks like most of your problems are just cosmetic and there is a major "gray area" that benefits the shop. I regularly inform prople not to accept a job until it's carefully inspected.



Also, if this was an insurance claim(not in this case), the insurance company would only get involved if it's one of their direct repair shops. If not, you choose them, you live with them.
 
Zrex61 said:
It's possible that what you think is sediment, is actually solvent pop...
Click to expand...

Ditto, I was about to say the same thing. If that's the case, there's a significant risk that it will just get worse as time goes on. This should be considered a paint warranty issue.
 
I'd take lot of pictures and keep good record of everything you do and any responses or lack thereof by the body shop.
 
HTML: 
It's possible that what you think is sediment, is actually solvent pop...





Is this the solvent they use to clean the part before painting it? I suppose this is more than possible but I really think its particle from spraying the part in an open shop I didn't see a paint booth so that is from where I am drawing this conclusion.



Word of advice always ask a body shop where they will be doing the painting. if they do not have a clean room move on. This is a tough lesson to learn the hard way and I am surprised in myself for not asking these questions before hand. The place was recommended to me. I guess I just took it on blind faith.



Soooo looks like I'll be researching on how to wetsand. I saw an episode on Trucks ( that show on Spike) where Stacy wetsanded an older ford explorer. He made it look deceptively easy like he always does so I am going to practice on the inside of the door where my local body shop also messed up.



Thanks for the advice folks.
 
dengsxr said:
Is this the solvent they use to clean the part before painting it? I suppose this is more than possible but I really think its particle from spraying the part in an open shop I didn't see a paint booth so that is from where I am drawing this conclusion.
Click to expand...

Nope, Here ya go:

http://www.tricitypaint.com/tsol26.html



SOLVENT POPPING

Gassing, Popping



Small bubbles, pinholes or crater-like openings in or on the paint film.



CAUSE

Liquid solvent (thinners/reducers) becomes "trapped" in the paint film when the surface layer skins over too quickly, preventing their evaporation into the atmosphere. Solvents that vaporize within the paint film leave bubbles, pinholes or craters as they push through and "pop" the surface. Solvents can be trapped due to:



Thinner/reducer evaporating too fast for spraying conditions;

Inadequate flash time between coats;

Excessive film thickness or "piling on" of heavy/wet coats;

Too much air movement causing surface to "skin over" before solvents evaporate;

Excessive purge/flash time before force drying.

REPAIR

Allow finish to thoroughly dry/cure, sand smooth and refinish. Inspect surface carefully to ensure all craters have been removed.

Severe popping will require removal of the affected film. Prime, seal and recoat, as necessary.

PREVENTION

Select recommended thinner/reducer based on temperature, humidity, air movement and size of repair;

Allow for proper flash time between coats.

Avoid "piling on" or double wet coats.

Restrict air movement over the surface being painted.

Avoid extended purge/flash time before force drying.

NOTE: Fine dust particles that fall on a tacky surface can be encapsulated by the wet film, cre-ating an appearance almost identical to solvent pop. This "solvent pop" appearance usually occurs on vehicles that are removed from the booth in a somewhat tacky condition and placed in another location to dry. Fine dust contamination can be removed by sanding and polishing. However, If the condition is solvent pop, the finish will contain pinholes or small craters after being sanded.
 
wouldn't he have a reason to go to small claims court for shoddy workmanship..if so..best to leave car as is till you have a court date..or get a estimate from a good shop to show cost to fix original work.....



many years ago I had work done on a Toyota truck..the work was very poor..looked like they sanded the truck with a stick...and rolled the paint on....I asked to have it fixed....the shop gave me a run around...so I filed a claim..had estimates to refix thier work and pictures...when I went to court it got into a heated debate between my self and shop owner...the judge asked if truck was present..I said in the lot..he called recess and went to look at it..I won hands down...I got a much better job second time from a better shop...all expensences paid by first shop...



Al
 
Thanks for the explanation that seems to be a very possible cause. I am very apprehensive about going back to this shop. I am going to have a word with the owner tomorrow I'll call every 30 minutes until he takes my call. Failing that I will drive to the shop in person and wait for him to see me. At this point I would like to simply hear his solution(s) to the problem. Once he owns up to the fact that he did a sub par job I suppose I will wiegh the options. I'll keep you posted.



Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top