Bad Autoglym????

IMO:



:down :down



1) ArmorAll!! Yuck!



2) That guy is pretty agressive with solvents . . . we use clay, he uses TOLUENE. Safe or not it's weird to be using all those solvents all over your car.



3) Pure oils from #7? Ok......what a nut!



4) Corn starch is straight ghetto! I still have to test it though.



I'm done for now . . .
 
TOluene Wow! He should use a clay bar at least for removing fallout.



He stips the wax with the Dawn wash then uses that wax solvent WOW.



Seems extreme to me and why strip the wax every year if the car is looking good?



NOgaro have you read the e-book yet? The first group of chapters are free from the CMA site and I is a great read.
 
Anyone here use a similar Wax and Grease Remover like that Audi guy? I have a big jug of 5Star Wax & Grease Remover, but I've only used it on windows when I try to remove the sticky residue from parking stickers.
 
I only had to use a harsh chemical once, when my buddy left a can of spray paint on the ground and I ran it over, BOOM, 20 ounces of paint all over my car, more than 65% of my car was covered from specks to 1 inch smears.... I used mineral spirits and it came off like soap takes of dust. I was really impressed but jeepers, I wouldn't use it every friggin 6 months. If the wax is really on there I'll just used dawn 2-3 times and let the polish get the rest if there is anything.



This guy might as well strip his paint and had it re-painted every 6 months. It MAY not hurt the paint, I don't know, but why go overboard if you don't have to, jeepers creepers.
 
Not to worry guys, I wouldn't attempt such an extreme :scared method especially when normal methods get the job done. Just wondering if anyone had ever heard of such methods as crazy as they sound. I already downloaded the first of the e-book which basically reiterates what you guys have taught me already. Probably should purchase the rest to get down the advanced methods. Thanks for all your help guys and friendly responses:xyxthumbs
 
holy crap that guy is stupid!!!



yes, I've used a similar 3M wax remover product, but only apply it with a Q-tip on areas I'm about to hit with touch-up paint to make sure I dont get any wax caught under the paint.
 
Actually it sounds more like an "old school" body shop detailing method. Funny thing - although not step by step, elements of this process is how I learned how to detail cars "professionally". My background in this hobby is probably different that most of yours.:D

The "wringing out the oils" in the #7 is odd; I don't think that technique will separate the oils from the other ingredients in #7. But the technique will fully saturate the towels and that makes the glazing process easier and a bit more consistent.

The wax and grease remover and the toulene are fairly common products at body shops. I use Prepsol and similar products from time to time. These are basically naptha and mineral spirits. Toulene isn't much different IIRC. And it <em class='bbc'>will[/i] remove surface contaminents. Claying is an abrasive process and some paint guys think this is an unnecessary step. Don't forget that body clay first was used in paint shops to remove overspray; some painters would rather use a chemical to remove overspray than use an abrasive. Two methods achieving the same result.

The Armor All thing means nothing, really. Who knows what products he has access to.

Black and Decker polishers have been the staple of paint and body shops for many years. Nothing new there. I first used one over 20 years ago.

Yeah, his methods are different than ours but you've got to admit our products and techniques are a small minority as well - how many non-Autopians do you know use Klasse or Zaino or Pinnacle? How many people do you know publicly fret over which tire dressing to use? Who worries about whether Vinylex is too glossy for their interiors?

It's all about perspective, my friends.:) :cool:
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by bretfraz [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>It's all about perspective, my friends.:) :cool: [/b]</blockquote>Ahhh!! The sweet sounds of the voice of reason! :xyxthumbs
 
I haven?t posted in a long time so here we go getting my feet wet again. I found a gem at Walmart on the clearance shelf for only $20: Autoglym Hi Def wax. I have seen this on the shelf for a while and suspected Walmart may have missed the target shopper. When they marked it down to $20 I figured it would go fast, nope! Still there. So on lunch today I went to buy batteries and figured it was time to put one of these guys out of its misery. Well I opened the box and my first observation is that the jar seemed kind of sticky to the touch. Also, if you look at the pic the jar has expanded. I didn?t take a pic of it but the white lettering on the lid is bubbling as if a solvent were eating it. The wax doesn?t seem like it has dried out. From what I know of wax it appears to be usable. But I give you the photos and ask what happened to the jar? Can this wax go bad?
Please advise.

IMAG0134.jpg

IMAG0135.jpg



:White Horse:
 
Notice the combustible liquid warning?

Combustible liquid is a solvent. Solvents evaporate and pressurize a container. (gas can). Solvents penetrate plastics over time. That's my guess. The solvents have penetrated the lid, softening it.
 
Notice the combustible liquid warning?

Combustible liquid is a solvent. Solvents evaporate and pressurize a container. (gas can). Solvents penetrate plastics over time. That's my guess. The solvents have penetrated the lid, softening it.

Thanks! So should the wax still be usable? Seems ok except for the jar.
 
Awesome wax a member from another forum sent me a tub since our Walmart didn't carry it. Just remember to dampen the included applicator and let the wax sit on the car before buffing it off . Also apply it very thin .
 
Thanks. I'm going to give a whirl. The wax itself seems like it survived the walmart shelf life experiment. It is soft and workable. If nothing else it serves as an demo on what solvents can to to plastic. :scared: Thanks for the input.




:White Horse:
 
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