Autoglym with PC?

silver323i

New member
Like the subject says, can you aply the autoglym products using a PC with the MF bonnets? Also, in your opinion which would be better over menzerna, klasse or autoglym? Thanks a lot, Mark.
 
I'm not an Autoglym user, but like other similar products (like Klasse) sure you could use the PC to apply them. You shoul probably use the finishing or polishing pads though, depending on which AG products you're talking about, not the MF bonnets which I think are more for residue buffing.
 
I've used Menzerna polishes and used Klasse & Autoglym Super Resin Polish over them with excellent results. I find myself using Super Resin Polish most of the time now, it gives me very good results.
 
~One man’s opinion~



I use Autoglym products (Super Resin Polish & Extra Gloss Protection) I apply with a Lake Country white DVC 7.5� pad and remove with a grey pad or a Microfiber towel (Klasse AIO / Menzerna Polish, same method)



There is also a school of thought that says you should use ‘the same line of products’ i.e. shampoo/polish/protecterant (this is a quote from Mike Phillips on show car garage, but I can’t find it to cut/paste it)





Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/



justadumbarchitect
 
I like the Resin and Extra Gloss but I could not say I am a fan of the Autoglym shampoo.



Silver323i, what products were you thinking of using with the PC?
 
I have NOT used the Menzerna polishes, but I've used Autoglym's SRP for years. I apply it with a polishing pad and yes, you can remove it with MF bonnets. If you want to try to "layer it" (yeah, I know, I know, about layering "cleaner" products...), apply the second layer VERY gently using a finishing pad.



You COULD apply it with the MF bonnets (I've applied it by HAND using MFs), but *I* would use the foam instead. I think the MF would load up too much. I have to keep using "fresh" areas of a MF towel when I apply it by hand, but a foam applicator will last for the whole car (unless you get it too soiled).



FWIW, I have NEVER had a problem mixing SRP with other product lines.
 
Quote: “If you want to try to "layer it" (yeah, I know, I know, about layering "cleaner" products...), apply the second layer VERY gently using a finishing pad.�



~One man’s opinion~



I have a question (asked in the spirit of learning, but see also signature) ‘Why would you layer a cleaner product�? I’ve applied it twice to ensure I didn’t miss a section but never tried layering it.





Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/



justadumbarchitect
 
TOGWT said:
Quote: “If you want to try to "layer it" (yeah, I know, I know, about layering "cleaner" products...), apply the second layer VERY gently using a finishing pad.�



~One man’s opinion~



I have a question (asked in the spirit of learning, but see also signature) ‘Why would you layer a cleaner product�? I’ve applied it twice to ensure I didn’t miss a section but never tried layering it...



The idea is to maximize the SRP's PROTECTIVE qualities. SRP really DOES protect all by itself, without a topper. Better by far, *IMO* than AIO.



Even the Autoglym product info talks about (or at least USED to back when I first started using it) how it (layering) CAN be done but ONLY if you apply the subsequent coats VERY gently. Said info said it will last longer with a second application. Apparently, you apply it gently so as to NOT disturb the previous application. Does it work? Dunno, never ran a controlled test. But subsequent applications, done gently, DO *SEEM* to apply/remove a little differently from a "regular"/cleaning-oriented SRP application.



Again, I'm NOT saying that I necessarily believe that it "layers", just passing along info.
 
Thanks for the great relplies, I love this site. I would be using Menzerna IP (with orange pad) then FP (I'll try out the new green pad). I would then either use Klasse AIO and SG (with white and grey pads, respectively). My other choice would be to use Autoglym SRP and EGP with, this is what I really need to know, a white and grey pad? Another thing, as I am trying to protect my car fron the winter, which is more durable, Klasse or Autoglym? Thanks again, Mark.
 
I am sure either Klasse or Autoglym would see you through the winter.



If I was going to try Resin with a PC, Ii would firstly use the gray pad and see what happens.
 
Heh heh, and if *I* were doing the Autoglym SRP, I'd first try the POLISHING pad! So take your pick, you won't really go wrong with either. I just think it might load up on the gray finishing pad.



BUT, IMO, the Klasse twins would win out when it comes to durability. Not by a wide margin, though.
 
Thanks for the info. Accumulator, :xyxthumbs



I've been told many times that I needed professional help ;) and I'm almost certain Autopia's forum is what they'd meant.



That's the reason I came 'cause after 40+ years I know 2% and I'm sure I can learn the other 98 here.



Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/



justadumbarchitect
 
I've decided that I will try then both. Since it has been said by some that Klasse can look flat on dark colors, I will try the Autoglym on a dark red (burgundy/maroon) 5 and the Klasse on my silver 3. Thanks for your advice and opinions, you guys are great.
 
That's exactly my opinion of Klasse & Autoglym, Klasse is brighter, Autoglym is deeper & richer. To be fair, you should test them both on the same vehicle, different colors will skew the results. I did one door each with Klasse & Autoglym, the results were the same as above. Both are excellent products, just a matter of what you prefer.
 
After applying the Extra Gloss, leave it on for as long as possible before buffing. The Resin & Gloss are not easy to work with in the damp, obviously this can be difficult this time of year.
 
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