attn: CALLING ALL SEASONED ROTARY VETS

B

B.M.W

New member
ok guys if you have 7+ years of rotary experience please post here.

back when i started 10 years ago we used heavy equipment ( buffer's) to get the job done and spent many back breaking hours finishing up jobs with super GRITTY coumpounds that can compare to beach sand mixed in water. now that ive spent a good 30 hours reading these detailing forums ive learned alot of new angles and doing less LABOR with better esults is my goal, but seeing that im a skilled rotary user im still left with many questions.

is the pc 7424 really better than lets say a dewalt 849? im pretty damn good with a rotary but at the same time being 30 im all about working smarter to obviously have more energy for the finer things in lfe, as much as i enjoy making cars glossy im also getting tired of collapsing after using the rotary lol.

whats the concensous on rotary around here for serious enthusiats and even light proffesional use






:dcrules
 
rotary, vs da there are a lot of pros and cons

Rotary: Pros: You can't beat it for speed. If your looking for efficiency have at it with a compund, then polish and poof your done. It can remove scratches and inperfections that are almost imposible to do with a da with ease.
Cons: Sling is much worse! There is a far greater chance for damage if you don't know what your donig. Can cut too much when you just need a little. Sometimes hard to get into tighter spots and is heavy in comparison to most DAs.
Dual Action (aka PC): Pros: Quiter, safer and easier! Sling is very minimal. You can do just about anything with it with the right pad,product,method. Smoother aplication of wax/sealant.
Cons: Much harder to remove defects! It is also a lot slower and smaller.

It really depends on what your doing with it. I have a PC 7424 and a Milwaukee rotory. I use both for half my details. The PC for 95% of my details and almost never just the milwaukee. The PC is much more versitile, but sometimes a rotary is just what's needed to get the job done right. Hope this helps.
 
I used a rotary for about a year, took 3 off, then just got back in the game with my DeWalt rotary. I've also used a generic DA buffer with various pad cobos. Koop hit it on the head. Sling city, as you know! Even if I'm using a Medium abrasive SSR or Polish, I still make some hologram type swirls in the surface. Of course, a polishing pad or finishing pad with a very light duty polish takes it out no problem. I hate to state the obvious, but any oxidation or scratches with any depth...the rotary obviously takes the cake. I borrowed a buddy's PC and man was that nice. It worked awesome at spreading wax and sealant in no time at all. However, after being spoilied with the rotary, it sucked the big one to remove any defects. There are plenty of seasoned PC vets that can do a hell of a lot with a PC, however. Even though I love my DeWalt rotray, I'm going to pick up a PC for spreading wax and sealants, plus after the defects are removed, it's much easier to do everything else with the PC, IMO. Bottom Line, have a dumb friend and borrow is rotary to perfect your finish. Then, up-keep it with your own PC!! :dancin :lol
 
How about a response from a seasoned PC user and a rotary novice?

I started with a GEM RO 16 years ago, 2 years ago I stepped up to a PC and the world changed. The PC was faster, easier and lighter. It also gave far superior results.

A few months ago, I picked up an inexpensive rotary from Harbor Freight (Chicago Electric) despite having several bad experiences years ago with a single speed rotary and heavy compounds.

I have polished two cars and a junkyard hood with my rotary and I can say without a doubt that once I get the full feeling for the rotary, it will blow away the PC for defect correction. As it stands now, it takes a touch longer than the PC to use, but the end results are still better on heavy defects. For light to medium marring, it seems the PC would get the nod because of it controlability and consistancy, and for application of final polish or LSP, I would have to to give it to the PC, hands down.
 
Use a fine grade pad (Edge blue/white) and you'll leave zero holigrams if you have good technique. I've compounded with a blue pad and only in my eyes would it need to have been gone over again with a final polish. Also, keep it slightly wet with either a QD or water. The problem that I see most frequently is not "finishing" the buffing. People will use a wool pad or a yellow or green foam pad and stop at that. All these cutting pads will leave behind some type of marring that will need further polishing to remove. My preference is to use as light as possible pad and let the product do the work. If there is need for a harsher pad for defect removal, then I will use that combined with a harsh product. But for everyday swirl removal, I see no need to go beyond a blue pad.
 
thanks guys after reading your responses im going to have both on hand just in case, never know when you have to break out the big guns for the HEAVY OXIDATED cars and dont wanna pass up a potential job just because i dont have a rotary handy. now the question do i use the 3m line or meguairs lol, i like 3m line because of aggesivness of there compounds and that stuff cuts like no other. not that i have alot of product experience either now the fun begins.

i think 3m's medium cut stacked with finesse it- II and a polish that im still undecided about
 
B.M.W said:
ok guys if you have 7+ years of rotary experience please post here.
Click to expand...
Is nearly 40 years of rotary experience close enough? :D

Anyhow, the others have pretty much covered it...

For serious paint correction, you need a high speed rotary "buffer"... no doubt about it.

For light paint correct, the PC "polisher" is certainly a fine tool and one worth having no matter what level you are at.

Most detailing "enthusiasts" that take care of their vehicles and keep the paint correction to a minimum... a PC will be all they need for the most part.

For dealing with vehicles on a regular basis that are not cared for by enthusiasts... a rotary will be a mandatory tool... plain and simple.

As for the product line, anybody that can make the 3M line work for them... can make the Meguiar's line work for them... and visa-versa. It's a matter of personal preference.
 
I'm partial to "The Trinity" : PC, Cyclo, rotary. The Cyclo can provide better ( or at least "easier" ) results IMO than a PC on hard clears. It's also a great follow up to the rotary to get that "final of the final" gloss. All three have a place in my arsenal but there's nothing like truly using a rotary correctly. Practice, practice, and some more practice again. My hat's off to the the true rotary masters!
 
Hi there, I learned in the late 60's while working at body shop, from a man
that did detailing for Cadilac dealer.Was amazing to watch this guy with
rotary do his thing, one hand,either beer in other hand or paint brush
loaded with compound dabbing as he would go, take screw driver out of
back pocket and clean wool pad, never missing a step.Upper arms on this
guy were bigger than my upper legs LOL, thought he went to gym to get that.
Got me working on junk cars in lot and saw windshield wipers flying off,antenna
gone in one swift swipe, pad wrecked paint burnt, cord wrapped around pad.
But with alot of help/advise got this down and been doing it ever since, been
using 3M and Meguiares products and had good results, do 20-30 cars a year
as side line have both rotary and pc and find I use both all the time,pads
are interchangable 7.5 so makes it easier, just some jobs require certain
machines and no way around it if you know how to use them.Now changing
product line to see if new products will cut some time and effort to
get same or better results.Changed over to Menzerna line,waited for winter
to end to try new line and been in and out of Hospital so have yet to get
my chance.Really bummin me out, have the new products, have the weather,
have the cars and can't play.Well sorry for long post but don't give up your
Rotary can add PC and will make some jobs alot easier but nothing does the
job a rotary does with the right hands.
 
Having used both - I say if your a professional then you need the rotary - people on here like Clean Dean can do wonders with it alone - 2005 or 1965 vehicle - Since your a skilled rotary user - getting a PC will probably cut your "easy" jobs time in half but the effort to get it out, pads, etc is the same as getting out the rotary :) - Smaller pads and an edge 2000 quick connect system (for rotary - no shamless plug intended :) ) - can speed you up no matter what the equipment.
 
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