attack plan

S

shaunthebadboy

New member
next car i am doing is a 91 supra (light blue). this car is pretty oxidized so it is going to take some time. my plan of action is as follows:

-wash-next wash

-clay-meguiars clay

-wash again

-sfx1, pc on 4-5-6, sonus orange pad (heaviest cut)

-dacp, pc on 4-5-5.5, sonus green pad

-p21s paintwork cleanser, pc on 4-5-6, sonus blue pad

-wolfgang sealant, pc on 4, sonus grey pad

-to remove all polishes, vast array of mf bonnets and mf towels

does this look like it should work on moderate to heavy oxidation? can i skip a step because of redundancy? should i top the wolfgang with p21s carnuaba wax?

thanks for the suggestions.
 
The plan sounds good, if the SFX one doesnt remove the oxidation or get you the results you are looking for then go for the DACP. IMO the P21S paintwork cleanser isnt the best idea before putting on the sealant. It has a lot of oils in the cleanser and would possibly interfere with the bonding process of the wolfgang. Just go from the paintwork cleanser to the P21S wax. Everything else looks fine.
 
Just be a little careful when doing the car with those abrasives, im assuming that the paint will be single stage. I did a 94 Red honda Del Sol that was oxidized like it was gonna go out of style. WHen i was finished with all the polishing it turned out 10x better but there were some area of the hood and other parts that had uneven color, this was more than likely to the paint being dead in those areas. Just dont be discouraged if the paint doesnt come out perfect because you can only polish what paint is left.
 
the hood on his car i think is beyond repair, hes not worried about it as much as he is the rest of the car because he is getting a carbon fiber hood soon. is there any way to look at the oxidation and tell if it is too bad and by polishing you run the risk of polishing the paint away?

thanks for the help
 
Well if its single stage, which more than likely it is, the paint will obviously transfer to your pads because of lack of clearcoat. I wouldnt worry so much about polishing the paint away. The chances are little escpecially if your using a pc and not a rotary. Just dont run the PC in one spot for a while, just use slow passes to and fro.



Its hard to tell whether some areas will polish out evenly or not. When i did the Del Sol, before i thought the hood was all do-able to come out nice and even, but after i was done there were certain area that were still pinkish and not red. The hood all had an even shine and gloss but those problem area are just too thinned out paint that was from the oxidation. The tops of the side mirrors I could tell before I started the paint was dead, i did try to polish them, but with no luck.
 
shaunthebadass - You may very well need another, milder abrasive after the DACP. The GEPC is pretty mild, probably *too* mild to remove any micromarring from the DACP.
 
IMO, if its a really light blue then marring probably wont show up from the polishes if you work them in long enough to break down properly, if is a darker shade of blue then I would recommend exactly what Accumulator is saying about following up with a polish to remove remaining marring.
 
well i have meguiars #82 (swirl free polish, about a 4 ona scale from 1-10 of cut) and it seemed to do a pretty good job of getting out the micromarring on my black car after i used dacp on it.

thanks for the advice guys
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top