I understand that Compound take of some of the clearcoat inorder to remove swirls. However wouldn't this be damaging? Because I am not to sure if i really need a Compound but i don't mind buying and trying it out but if i don't need it and it is damaging forget it, i will just OP instead of OC before that.
Are Compounds damaging to clearcoat/paint?
- Thread starter Rsxer
- Start date
imported_truzoom
New member
Depends on the compound and if you are using hand, RO, or rotary to use it. For the most part, compounding occasionally is not detrimental to the paint.
I am planing to do it by hand (a lot of muscle power) 
. So it doesn't harm anything right. If it doesn't i don't mind putting it on if it will help even the slightest bit. But if it my rune something forget it.
Like you can't rub off your paint/clearcoat or anything like that right HAHA
. So it doesn't harm anything right. If it doesn't i don't mind putting it on if it will help even the slightest bit. But if it my rune something forget it.Like you can't rub off your paint/clearcoat or anything like that right HAHA
imported_truzoom
New member
Your problem in that case is you aren't going to generate enough heat to actually break down the abrasives in compounds...
MBurnickas
New member
You can actually do more harm by hand than by machine IMO. Because the abrasives don't break down you "can" actually induce more swirls. You could polish a hundred times with a mild polish like fpII or SFX-3 or 1000 times with AIO and never burn through your CC. Even real aggresive polishes take a long time to get to primer. I tried it once on an old hood. I used up 2 pads using a rotary on speed 5 and 6 in one spot, and never got to primer. I did scortch the paint a little but that's just because I was literally trying to and put all my weight on it. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone using a PC going through the paint, except in the case of a paint defect. There is one friend I know from our car club who was polishing near his OEM whale tail, and he got to primer, but we thought it was because the manufactorer had the car sprayed with the tail on and the paint was real thin in that area. Anybody disagree with me? It's good to hear both sides of it and I do admit I'm not super careful when it comes to taking chances.:cooleek:
Accumulator
Well-known member
"Compound" is a word that gets used in a lot of different ways by different manufacturers.
Rsxr was asking specifically about the OC, which I haven't tried, but *somebody* here must've tried it by hand...
Some compounds like my old fave 3M PI-III RC 05933 work fine by hand.
The whole thing about taking off paint/clear is that you can't take off *too* much, but you have to take off *some* if you're gonna remove the marring. So how much do you take off :nixweiss No more than you feel you have to.
Rsxr was asking specifically about the OC, which I haven't tried, but *somebody* here must've tried it by hand...
Some compounds like my old fave 3M PI-III RC 05933 work fine by hand.
The whole thing about taking off paint/clear is that you can't take off *too* much, but you have to take off *some* if you're gonna remove the marring. So how much do you take off :nixweiss No more than you feel you have to.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Unless somebody comes back with a "I did OC by hand and it works" response, you'd better do a bit of searching and see if anybody's tried it by hand. Or at least try it on a small, inconspicuous area to see how it works.
Generally, anything that works OK by PC will work OK by hand if you put the effort into it.
Generally, anything that works OK by PC will work OK by hand if you put the effort into it.
SpoiledMan
New member
Preface: This is nothing more than my thoughts
My thinking is that the long amount of time that it takes to break down OC with the PC would translate to it being a really long time to break down by hand. I think your arm would fall off first.
My thinking is that the long amount of time that it takes to break down OC with the PC would translate to it being a really long time to break down by hand. I think your arm would fall off first.
SpoiledMan said:
Thats not good ... well maybe I will use in spots that really need it? I think I will give it a try ..
One thing i don't get though since AIO is a strong cleaner and if I put OC and OP before that wouldn't the polish come off? (I think this is a stupid question) LOL please don't laugh
imported_themightytimmah
New member
Rsxer said:
Having used the Optimum line via machine many times, I really wouldn't reccomend it by hand. I'd listen to Accumulator's advice on the 3M product, their stuff tends to be much more hand friendly than some of the newer polishes.
Rsxer said:
Thats just a mistake in the meaning of polish. In the bodyshop/Autopia/Pro Detailing world, polish is something used to remove swirl marks and a little bit of clearcoat and generally finish up after compounding or improve the gloss on a panel. Many consumer products (NuFinish, etc) use polish to describe a synthetic paint protectant, which in Autopian terms would be a sealant. These OTC "polishes" often combine a sealant with mild chemical cleaners, similar to AIO just often less effectively.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Yeah, the myriad uses of the word "polish" can sure get confusing!
If you try the 3M route, get *only* the two products I mentioned, PI-III RC 05933 and PI-III MG 05937. The newer versions are not the same and I can' recommend them, at least not by hand.
The PI-II Fine Cut RC (39002 in the common pint-size bottle) isn't bad by hand, not as nice as the PI-III stuff though. If you use the PI-II, either wear a mask or don't do too much work with it- it contains silica-based abrasives that are like asbestos if/when you inhale the dust (not good).
If you try the 3M route, get *only* the two products I mentioned, PI-III RC 05933 and PI-III MG 05937. The newer versions are not the same and I can' recommend them, at least not by hand.
The PI-II Fine Cut RC (39002 in the common pint-size bottle) isn't bad by hand, not as nice as the PI-III stuff though. If you use the PI-II, either wear a mask or don't do too much work with it- it contains silica-based abrasives that are like asbestos if/when you inhale the dust (not good).
Accumulator said:
Thanks
Is PI-III RC 05933 a ONE STEP polish? and PI-III MG 05937 a glaze?
Can I easily just replace OC with PI-III RC 05933 and use OP after? or would OP just be redundant?
Can I not use PI-III MG 05937 because I wanna use RMG instead? Or do you half to use the MG right after RC?
Accumulator
Well-known member
Rsxer said:
Never mind the names (isn't that a hassle
)- I'll try to explain. The 05933 will need a milder product as a follow-up. I dunno if the OP will do it as I've never used OP.
The 05937 MG isn't reall a "glaze". It's a mild abrasive polish sorta like what OP is. Very user-friendly and it's perfect for use after 05933. You could still put RMG over the 05937.
Yeah, the 3m stuff is getting hard to find, but my local autopaint/body supply place has it on the shelf.
1z is very user-friendly. Their Extra/Ultra is pretty aggressive and their PP is pretty good as a general-use polish. But note that these leave wax behind.
Thanks for all your help accumulator ... seriously without you i would be loss .
I think I am just going to use the OP and not OC and see how it works out. This is what I am going to do:
OP --> AIO --> RMG --> NB
However is there any step where i have to wait inorder for the product to cure? (I think i read somewhere that i have to wait 24 hours between RMG and NB, is there any others).
Thanks again. your a car wash saint
.I think I am just going to use the OP and not OC and see how it works out. This is what I am going to do:
OP --> AIO --> RMG --> NB
However is there any step where i have to wait inorder for the product to cure? (I think i read somewhere that i have to wait 24 hours between RMG and NB, is there any others).
Thanks again. your a car wash saint
Accumulator
Well-known member
Glad to be of help, but you'll need somebody else's input on your chosen approach as I dunno from RMG or Natty's 
I'd *guess* that there'd be no real need to wait between any of the steps, but you'd better find out for sure.
I'd *guess* that there'd be no real need to wait between any of the steps, but you'd better find out for sure.
imported_mirrorfinishman
New member
Yes, compounds can be damaging to clearcoat/paint.