are coin ops bad for our cars

6']['9

New member
are they bad for cars that are very well taken care of. i know i have aio, sg and p21 if i take my car to a coin op will that water that comes out be bad for the p21. i know carnubas are supposed to have a low surface adhesion as far as temp goes compared to synthetics. but would a car washe that use recycled water or hard water be bad?
 
I feel the high water pressure sand blasts the dirt into the finish as you make a pass over the paint but that's just my 2 cents.



I would not make a habit of it.



rd
 
I would rather handwash then use coin op wash. Nevertheless, depending on the weather and condition of your car, it will probably be ok to do it every once in a while.
 
Depends, in the winter it can be very difficult to wash a vehicle at home - especially if you have a very thick layer of road grime from slush etc caked on. Going to a coin op to remove the majority of the salt, sand etc may an only option.



If you do use a coin op, make sure not to get to close with the wand, never use the brush (except on the tires and wheel wells) and just treat it as a rinse.



That's what I do.
 
6']['9 - It's gonna depend on the place. Many really do have decent water. As rd_volvo said, you don't want to blast the dirt INTO the surface of your car, and it's not the best way to wash a car, BUT, it may well be better than letting the car get/stay really filthy.



Try to find a place that advertises "spot free rinse". They might have soft water which won't leave too many spots. Hard water can cause SERIOUS spotting. This is important as you'll probably want to "air dry" the vehicle. You won't get it perfectly clean just by blasting it with the nozzle (and NO, DON'T USE THE BRUSH), and if you try to dry it with a towel or something similar, you'll probably mar the finish due to some dirt still being on there.



When Accumulatorette travels in her A8, she runs it through touchless carwashes and doesn't let them dry it. When she gets back home, the car's a LOT better than if she'd just let it stay dirty for the whole trip. Sometimes it's hard on the wax, but usually it's not too bad.



Again this isn't something I'd recommend you do often, but sometimes you have to choose the lesser of two evils.
 
I always spray the car at an angle to avoid sandblasting the paint. In all honesty most of those coin ops dont use pressure that high, mine I can put my hand in the spray, it doesn't feel nice but its not a 2000 PSI industrial unit, its closer to 600 PSI. Touchless washes are even weaker.
 
We have two kinds of coin ops here in Erie.

We have the "traditional" coin op where you put in the quarters and have the wand and wash brush. I tend not to use these except in the extreme case where my car is caked in ice, salt, slush and muck. This is where it curls around the wheel well and practically scrapes the ground. I usually go in and spray it with the rinse cycle and get all the stuff off around the wheel wells and the dirt off of the doors and such.

Then we have some brand new touchless drive through where you pay $8 for the premium wash and it does a DARNED GOOD JOB.. The down side is that you wish the undercarriage wash would last a lot longer but its ok. The rest of the wash if very very good. It has the usual soap soak along with the wax, polish, etc. It finishes off with a spotless rinse and a blow dry.

I use this one because at least it doesnt have brushes and the car looks good when I leave. Its below freezing here most of the time and washing your car at an apartment is not an option.

If it makes my S100 last less, then so be it, the S100 can be replaced in the spring. Having said that, the S100 is still beading strong. I did a really good coat in late fall.

Dana
 
I use the power spray wash when the truck is really dirty but most of the time I can keep it clean by using Poorboys Spray and Wipe once or twice a week in the garage. Half an hour max and done.
 
Vincent Vega said:
I just use the rinse water. I bring my own bucket/soap. rinse/wash/rinse. Then off to the heated garage for drying etc...



Yeah, that's what I used to do as well assuming there isn't a line of people 30 long.



As others noted, simply use the rinse cycle to get the bulk crap off and then do your QEW once you get home. That's probably the best "partial" solution for the winter time washing blues.



Apart from that, I would never elect to use a hi pressure wash system against the paint of any car I liked.
 
Vincent Vega said:
I just use the rinse water. I bring my own bucket/soap. rinse/wash/rinse. Then off to the heated garage for drying etc...



This what I do as I do not have a garage. Also, I do not live close to coin-op to make just washing the crude off and then QEW a benefit. I am also going to polish the car come spring.



Eric
 
I've read that some places use a much too strong mixture of soap, or too harsh of a soap in order to get more dirt off the car (get rid of the film that's usually left behind, that you'd have all over your drying towel if you were to wipe the car without washing with a mitt). As most of the coin ops here are totally self serve, and the ones that do have "attendants" don't have any knowledge of the products, other than"fill this jug with the white stuff, this jug with red stuff" you probably won't be able to find out what brands they use. If the soap is harsh, then you will likely be disolving the wax pretty quickly. Sealants, I don't know.



What I've been doing lately is going to one of the "pay by the minute" places. They don't care if you bring your own bucket- they probably prefer it, as it doesn't cost them anything extra. You can use your own stuff and use only their water and heat. If you felt the urge, you could even wax it there, thus helping 'up' winter protection! One word of caution, though, is that, unless it's a "bad" day for washing, you'll likely be in there with lots of others, as there are usually 6+ bays, partitioned off by only a tarp or small wall on either side. This leaves you exposed to all the steam, water and mist from neighbors, so you probably would want to go early in the morn to avoid this. Also, if you plan on waxing, bring a wax that doesn't need to haze dry, as these places are often humid all the time, so why pay extra time waiting for it to haze and run the risk of overspray attacking the wax? I've been able to do "quickies" in about an hour, which here costs about $10.00-Pretty cheap, I think, since I'm getting a thorough wash and quick wax, versus a spray only and it would still cost around $4-$5.00, with poor results-streaks, film, etc.



My fingers hurt:rolleyes:



Just my thoughts.
 
6']['9 said:
are they bad for cars that are very well taken care of.



A coin op car wash is really no different than any other process you could use to wash your car.



If you are careful, you really should not have a problem. For example, the closer you hold the spray wand, from the surface of your car, the more higher the pressure of the water will be that is blasting against your car.



Always use your own best judgement when you wash your car.
 
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