Applying SG by pc (help)!

[lpquick]

OK, need some direction, I've read allot of the reviews, checked the learning channel and with the limited experience I have I'm still questioning my technique. I tried the woo method with SG and pc using a terry cloth pad for applying and a MF cloth for buffing by hand. Obviously I'm having some mixed results. My first thought is maybe the terry cloth pad is to harsh, not feeling very soft to the touch, I do wet it with water than spin it at 5 or so to remove excess. I then apply a very thin layer around the outside edge. O blot or lightly smear the sealant on the paint over the 2X3' area I plan to polish. I set the pc to 3.5 and using smooth figure eight movements going first left to right, then up and down. I then grab a MF buffing towel and hand rub. In normal lighting this looks great but under careful scrutiny, I can see some light hazing in small clumps in two or three different areas. Reapplying the sealant over these areas doesn't change anything. Do I need to apply AIO over these area's first and then reapply SG, or am I doing something wrong? Is the terry cloth to harsh on my BMW finish? Should I use a MF towel under the pad to apply by pc until the MF pads I ordered arrive? Can I use the charcoal grey polishing pads I bought from CMA three weeks ago, in the sonus pad kits? Should I be using a little QD spray instead of water before applying? I am starting to question too many variables. Would someone please set me straight? Thanks I appreciate everyone help on this forum!

:nixweiss

 

[shaf]

Moved to Detailing.





I am not sure where you got those terry bonnets from, but just because it "feels" soft, doesn't mean it is.... I'm hoping that you did not scratch the paint with it.



Try using AIO to start over, but this time use a foam finishing pad instead of terry.

 

[Corey Bit Spank]

I'm applying SG to my car by hand and I have found the best way is to take half of the hood, and work it until it's clear. Wait a few minutes, then wipe it off.



I don't know if this is the right way, but that's how it's working for me, and the paint is slick, so I know it's on there just fine.

 

[PakShak]

SG with a foam applicator pad by hand is the way to go. You can apply thin layers and not waste product. Which makes removal a blessing.



With Aloha,

Ranney

 

[Corey Bit Spank]

SG with a foam applicator pad by hand is the way to go. You can apply thin layers and not waste product. Which makes removal a blessing.



With Aloha,

Ranney

I'm not experiencing any removal problems even when i let it sit for a few hours :nixweiss

 

[Accumulator]

lpquick- Yeah, I too think you should ditch the terry. Way too likely to mar, IMO. I always apply SG with foam (I tried MF but like the foam a lot better). And I use *dry* foam. Just enough SG on it so the applicator glides across the finish, not enough that you can easily see it on the paint.



Although I've done SG by machine, I consider it an advanced technique.



You're on the right track- limit your variables as best you can. Clean the area by reapplying AIO and see if the "hazing" goes away. If not, the terry marred the finish- use a polish to fix it. Apply the SG by hand with a foam pad using as little as you can. If you want to w-o-w-o then do that, or let it set up and *then* take off the excess. Take it off with a MF. Fogging the surface with your breath will make it come off easier.



FWIW, I usually still use the old method of letting it set up overnight but a) I have a dust-free garage and b) that method just works conveniently for me in *my* situation. As you can tell there are many different ways to use Klasse, just find the one that works best for you. When you *do* find the method that's right for you, you'll know it; KSG can be extremely easy to use.

 

[Accumulator]

I'm not experiencing any removal problems even when i let it sit for a few hours :nixweiss

And you still won't have any problems if you let it set up for *days*. I played around with some *long* set-up times, and it always came right off with no trouble.

 

[Corey Bit Spank]

And you still won't have any problems if you let it set up for *days*. I played around with some *long* set-up times, and it always came right off with no trouble.

Why, this stuff is easier to use then Blackfire. I'm not sure about the look yet. My hands are so dried out I can't tell if the paint is slick. I can tell it's on there though. Seems to layer very thick. We'll see how i like it!

 

[lpquick]

OK, thanks for kind responses. I'll use AIO to remove the light hazing, then reapply SG by foam pad (dry), I'll try WOWO method first since my ride stays outside all the time for now.

Accumulator:

1 question, if I did leave it on say overnight or a day or two, and I keep it outside, would you rinse it real good before buffing it out to ensure a clean as possible surface, or would you just use a little QD and a MF towel?

 

[Accumulator]

.. 1 question, if I did leave it on say overnight or a day or two, and I keep it outside, would you..

If you mean letting it set up for a while before you buff it off, in *your situation* I wouldn't leave it overnight before buffing it off- too great a chance that something abrasive would stick to the SG and result in marring.



If you mean letting it sit outside before you try to buff off the bothersome haze, I'd just wash the car and then see what it needs. This would not only clean off anything that's settled on it, but might also solve the hazing problem. I'm sorta paranoid about marring the finish, so if a vehicle's been outside I wash it before resuming work. It's a little more work, but a lot *less* work than polishing out scratches

 

[lpquick]

OK, so far the Klasse twins AIO x2 and SG x3. Will wait a week and start adding layers of Pinnacle Paste wax. The color isn't black, nor as light as Silver, interested on how Pinnacle (made for metallic) paste wax will view over the Klasse twins. Hope there's enough of a difference to catch it on film. I'll try and post the pictures.