Applied a coating for the first time with mixed results (long post)

Bill1975 --

Thanks for your reply !
Sorry, I forgot you had said you used Griot`s Fast Correcting Cream; that is a compound and it should have knocked out the defects..
Make sure you have a lot of downward pressure on the machine, but not so much that it stops rotating..
You need all the rotation you can get.

I use only Rotary Power and I always put downward pressure on the work, and on some really hard German paints that are totally scratched, I put a LOT of downward pressure on the work, so think how that little Porter Cable is going to compare to that... Not very good, unfortunately.. :)

See that some really good men are recommending microfiber, that might just be the ticket.. It doesn`t require as much pressure, but it does get hot quickly and the microfiber pad has to be fiddled with, using a brush and/or air to clean it out so it will work more passes and panels, before you have to change it out.

Goes without saying you will need a lot of these as well, so you don`t have to stop all the time, and possibly run out and you`re not done yet..
I have never liked them because they tend to leave a haze on there (but they do correct very well), and then you have to take that haze out... And I`m using them with a Rotary..

The applicator you used perhaps soaked up too much of your coating, causing you to run out too quick..

I only use the Tuf-Shine Orange, Rectangular, Curved in the middle, tight foam sponge, I stick it into a nitrile glove, and then put a small suede CarPro Coating Applicator over that, and then there is no soaking up of that coating, except by the thin suede cloth..
This orange sponge is just the right size for my hand, its curved a little but is still a rectangle, and has enough give to get into any place you need it to go.. And the price is outstanding ! Of course it`s the perfect applicator for Tuf-Shine Clearcoat which I absolutely love..

The dropper on that bottle is the infamous "european dropper" that is used on all bottles of the many therapeutic oils I buy and use for various things.. It IS a pain when the bottle gets close to gone as you found out.. I just keep it dropper side down and make a quick downward motion and stop, to try to shake out the last of the product in there..
I suppose, one could pull that dropper out somehow and get the last of the coating out, but it might come out all at once, etc., so you have to manage that...

I will always be a fan of the Syringe method for storing coatings, much more precise, you just have to be sure to get all the air out before you cap it up.. and store it syringe cap up..

You GTI is beautiful ! Love that color ! You did a great job ! And look at all that you learned !
Dan F
 
WaxAddict said:
For you guys that do a lot of coatings, what do you do with the towels when you`re done? Are they trash? My one and only coating experience, I used my Split Purplenality towels, and later realized I may have ruined $16 of towels. They still feel soft, but.....
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applicator covers toss, wipe off towels, just drop in a bucket of warm water with detergent. I use 3D Towel Kleen. Soak them and when you`re all done just drop them in the washer and double rinse. Good to go.

I do mostly all coatings now and really prefer the 16x16 suede cloths for removal. They leave zero lint and work very well.
 
If you have to buy again to redo it try CSL instead. Way easier to work with and you can see which last longer for you on the same car and do your gf car with it. I tried CSL topped with EXO 16 months ago and its still going strong after 2 winters. I loved CSl and did one side of the bed with EXO and stopped it was a pain to work with and looked like it was leaving high spots so I just put bottle away and left the rest the truck with just CSL.
 
trashmanssd said:
If you have to buy again to redo it try CSL instead. Way easier to work with and you can see which last longer for you on the same car and do your gf car with it. I tried CSL topped with EXO 16 months ago and its still going strong after 2 winters. I loved CSl and did one side of the bed with EXO and stopped it was a pain to work with and looked like it was leaving high spots so I just put bottle away and left the rest the truck with just CSL.
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In looking at the Gtech website, I got the impression that Exo was easier to apply.
 
Oneheadlite said:
Be careful about using tape to create an actual section for coating- I’d be afraid slight variations in application, or even just having a physical barrier in place could leave you with visible sections left in the final product.

I always wonder about that for people that tape tape off their test section as well. Looks great for photos, but I’d worry about having to remove that line. I guess I’m paranoid though.
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I was thinking more of outlining a grid on the edges or just outside the panel. For example, on the passenger door, I might line up pieces of tape for the vertical lines on the rubber seals at the top, and door jambs at the bottom. For the horizontal lines, just mark off pieces of tape at the fender and rear quarter panel.

I`ve noticed when polishing that I sometimes have a tendency to push the boundaries of my work area a bit. I probably did the same thing here
 
hawaiidude said:
I agree with others. CSL is so much easier to work with thank EXO. It leaves a nice slick feel while EXo leaves a "stickier" feel to the paint. I`m curious to see how the EXO holds up without CSL under it. It may not look perfect but you have a really good protective coating. If you have the energy, CSL+EXO+EXO leaves an unbelievable finish that lasts a long time.
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Supposedly CSL lasts longer as well. I will just have to pick one over the summer. I would be curious to see if there is a striking visual difference between Exo and CSL.

I`ve really only heard about these types of coatings in the last year or so. Not sure who developed them first, but if they truly last as long as they claim then I don`t see why I or anyone would go back to a traditional wax again.

Also, I was reading what some pro detailers charge to apply a coating. Obviously their experience and quality of work is worth it, but I like the idea of doing it myself and saving a chunk of cash, even if I have to strip some off and start over.
 
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