Anyone use Meguiars Polishes?
- Thread starter imported_sal3291
- Start date
Eliot Ness
Active member
OK guys, like MDRX8 suggests lets get this thread back on track before a mod has to step in.
I also recommend the 83 and 80 combo as an abrasive polish. For something with more bite then the #95 that EisenHulk suggested might be a good choice in the Meg's line-up (disclaimer, I have not yet used Meg's #95, but Casey has had good luck with it).
For a pure polish (non-abrasive) I have had good luck with Meg's #5 for use on fresh paint until it cures....... very easy to use. Some guys rave about #7, especially before going to a show but there is a slight learning curve to it:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/detailing-articles-videos/23740-meguiar-s-7-mike-phillips.html
I also recommend the 83 and 80 combo as an abrasive polish. For something with more bite then the #95 that EisenHulk suggested might be a good choice in the Meg's line-up (disclaimer, I have not yet used Meg's #95, but Casey has had good luck with it).
For a pure polish (non-abrasive) I have had good luck with Meg's #5 for use on fresh paint until it cures....... very easy to use. Some guys rave about #7, especially before going to a show but there is a slight learning curve to it:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/detailing-articles-videos/23740-meguiar-s-7-mike-phillips.html
Eisen Hulk
New member
Like John just said, I have had very good results with #95. #95 with a 4" orange pad and my PC gives me great correcting power. Is it a rotary? No. But it's one of the best compounding combos for a PC/DA.
MDRX8 said:
I agree but I find that #3 Machine Glaze gives pretty much the same look and is the easiest of Meguiars pure polishes to use.
I regularly use #83 and #105 (although #105 is meant for rotary or hand use only) and to a lesser extent, #80. Where the Meguiars polishes really shine (pun intended!) are on softer clears and on single stage paints.
DaGonz
Autopia fire/rescue.
I use a lot of Meguiar's pro and detailer line products.
I use the following Meguiar's polishes:
For wax, it's #26 Hi Tech yellow or #21 Synthetic Sealant.
I use a lot of Meg's products because my supplier either has them in stock or can get it within a day, 2 at the latest.
I use the following Meguiar's polishes:
- Meguiar's #83 DACP
- Meguiar's #80 Speed Glaze
- Meguiar's #2 Fine Cut Cleaner
- Meguiar's #9 Swirl Remover 2.0
- Meguiar's #3 Machine glaze
For wax, it's #26 Hi Tech yellow or #21 Synthetic Sealant.
I use a lot of Meg's products because my supplier either has them in stock or can get it within a day, 2 at the latest.
Junebug
JAFO
I got a sample of 95, after using - I'm getting myself a quart and when the other medium polishes run out, they'll be replaced by 83 & 80. I'm currently looking at a bunch of the Detailers Line products, they're next on my to buy list as soon as the weather gets nice and I get some paying details.
imported_sal3291
New member
Thanks all. I have been doin a lot of reading so I have searched, I have not seen many posts lately about Meg with the exception of 151 and 105. I have Prima Swirl and Danase Swirl Abolishers now. I am running a lil low, as I do like these products I can get Meguiars local and cheaper so I was looking to get an idea of some good polishes to keep on hand. I have no particular car in mind just lookin for ideas on what to keep ready as I mentioned. I am still on the fence about 105 and a PC. But I think I will def pick up 151, 95, 83, 80. #3 and #7 can I use DWG, Prima Amigo or RMG instead (only bc I have those already).
Thanks everyone for your input
Thanks everyone for your input
Can someone post adequate Meg's replacement for Menz IP and FPII or 106FF?
As far as I can tell, 83 followed by 80 is roughly the same but #80 seems to have more cut than FPII.
I'm running low on the CMA "Get Acquainted" kit and I don't want to pay for shipping cross country to get it again. One of the big draws for me to Menzerna was the fast working time but when I started refining my technique I had to start cutting IP with a little FPII to work slower and longer passes to have an overall shorter polishing with the same results. Meg's "trade secret oils" seem to be just what I'm looking for.
Also, what's the most aggressive compound and finest polish that Meg's has that's reasonably safe for a PC?
Searching for Meg's on this forum is a lot like searching for a needle in a needle stack. You can't tell which one has the thread you're looking for.
As far as I can tell, 83 followed by 80 is roughly the same but #80 seems to have more cut than FPII.
I'm running low on the CMA "Get Acquainted" kit and I don't want to pay for shipping cross country to get it again. One of the big draws for me to Menzerna was the fast working time but when I started refining my technique I had to start cutting IP with a little FPII to work slower and longer passes to have an overall shorter polishing with the same results. Meg's "trade secret oils" seem to be just what I'm looking for.
Also, what's the most aggressive compound and finest polish that Meg's has that's reasonably safe for a PC?
Searching for Meg's on this forum is a lot like searching for a needle in a needle stack. You can't tell which one has the thread you're looking for.
imported_Ivan Rajic
New member
evenflow said:
Best combo on the PC for me... you can use both with a Meg's 8006 or 9006 pad, or orange, white and/or black LC pads... great results and great polishes to start of with in Meg's line
Wolf-Strong said:
M9, from my experience, fills more than M80 and also has a cut similar to M82 not M80... just make sure you do an ipa wipe down after M9 to make sure you're not leaving swirls in the paint
Scottwax said:
I couldn't agree more... I absolutely LOVE using Meg's 80, 82 and 3 on Porsches and any single stage paints, red being my favorite.
sal329 said:
I would only add M82 to the mix as well, as it's a really good polish between M80 and M3
phamkl said:
From my experience, and it's mostly with the rotary and some with PC, IP is similar to M83 but M83 does seem to have more cutting ability. I haven't used FPII much but after using a lot of 106ff I think it falls somewhere around M82, maybe a bit more cutting ability... If you were looking for exact replacements, I would say go with 83 and 80, simply because 83 has enough cutting ability to correct many defects on many cars, while 80 finishes down nicely with the right pad...
As for work time of Menzerna, are you using PC or rotary? If rotary, it might be the temperature affecting the work time... if you're using a PC there's no way you should have a short working time... I can easily make 5-8 passes @ 1200-1500 with the rotary with PG, SIP and 106ff, and it should be even longer with the PC... this of course depends on how big your work area is (if it's too large you might have a short work time because there's not enough polish), pressure, etc.
The most aggressive polish Meg's recommends with a PC is M83 on a 8006 pad, but now you can buy the burgundy 2.0 soft-buff pads which are meant for the PC as well, and I'm guessing use that with M83 as well... aside from Meg's recommendations, people have been successfully using even M105 on a 7006 (old burgundy cutting pad), so you won't know until you try it... as for finest, you can't get much finer than M3, 7 and/or 5... 81 might be similar but I've never tried it
imported_sal3291
New member
So would #3 be used to "jewel" the paint? The after apply a glaze such as DWG? Or could I skip #3 and go from say #80 on a white LC pad to DWG?
imported_Ivan Rajic
New member
sal329 said:
Yes #3 can be used to "jewel" the paint with a black LC pad or similar... you could go from #80/white LC pad to a sealant/wax especially on hard paints... it depends on what's done before the #80/white... if you just did a rougher polish and #80 didn't leave a great finish, or the paint is too soft, you'll probably need something like #82 or #3 to refine it a bit more... if you're doing a 1-step, especially on hard paint, where #80/white will leave a great finish, you can go straight to LSP
imported_sal3291
New member
Generalizing, if I can, would 83/80 be used for harder clear coats and 82/80 or #3 used for softer clears?
As far as one step I am looking at D151 or Poli-Seal (I have a small sample of this to try).
As far as one step I am looking at D151 or Poli-Seal (I have a small sample of this to try).
imported_Ivan Rajic
New member
sal329 said:
You could generalize it that way... 83/80 for harder and 80/82 or 3 for softer...
Accumulator
Well-known member
sal329 said:
I wouldn't think of #3 as a "jeweling" polish as it doesn't have any cut; I think of jeweling/burnishing polishes as those with just a *little* cut...barely functionally abrasive but not functionally nonabrasive. I.e., something more along the lines of #9 or #82.
The functionally nonabrasive "pure polishes" (#3/#5/#7/#81) are, to my way of thinking, just variations on the glaze theme. And there might be better glazes for certain applications anyhow...I like #3 OK but it did absolutely *nothing* for me on a perfect-paint Audi; there were no microfissures/etc. for the #3 to get a toehold in so it simply wiped right back off leaving no benefit like I would usually get from it. DWG woulda been a much better choice in that case.
(Lest somebody think I've missed something regarding the "pure polishes" in the 30-odd years I've used them, note that I've done the jeweling thing with #7 and #3 on ss black lacquer back in the day, but the burnishing effect came from the application media, not the #7/#3 itself and IMO today's products have rendered this methodology obsolete; now it's best to let the *product* do the jeweling as opposed to the media. Mike Phillips has discussed this over at MOL if anybody wants more info.)
imported_sal3291
New member
Well looks like I am goin to pick up some 151 (for one step), 105, 95, 83, 82, 80, goin to skip #3 as I have glazes to use already.
Thanks all
Thanks all