Anyone use IP with cutting pad ?

M

mpmiller37

New member
I have a PC and used IP with polishing pad and realized its not that aggressive even though it removed all swirls. I want to attempt to remove some tiny spec like pitting that I discovered on my black car. Can I use IP with a more aggressive pad like Sonus SFX-1 instead of their mid-grade polishing pad without marring the finish ? Is the SFX-1 pad considered a cutting pad or not really ?
 
Rotary not an option for me. Want info about using IP with various pads on a PC, polishing pad versus cutting pad. Or would moving up the Menzerna PowerGloss be a better option, but with what pad ?
 
I've used IP with a cutting pad. Definitely gives it more cut. It still wouldn't be able to fix serious paint defects like wet sanding would.

However, if your problem is pitting then likely you would have to go through the whole clear coat to level the paint with the bottom of the pit. Without seeing your problem, I would guess that the only thing that could fix it is fresh paint.
 
I'm not positive that's its pitting. It looks like very tiny white specs on the paint that were not noticable until all the swirls were removed. I was just going to attempt a small sectin with something more aggressive and if it didn't work, I would live with it.
 
Even moving up to PG with the a polishing pad you are still going to have to go over the area again with a lighter polish or IP with a polishing/finishing pad to remove the hazing. As mentioned above it will depend on your paints hardness ect but I have a sneaking feeling that you will have to go back over the area with a lighter polish to bring the gloss back up after using a harsh compound and/or a cutting pad. Those little pits are annoying, I too have have them on my hood. I dont bother getting rid of them anymore because if it is a daily driver they are just going to reappear quickly due to driving and sand/stones/debris hitting the front end. Are they just on your hood and the front of the car or are they all over?

I think you could have success with PG and the PC it will just take some time to use but it for sure can be done. A rotary will be faster but a PC I think can do it.
 
mpmiller37 said:
Rotary not an option for me. Want info about using IP with various pads on a PC, polishing pad versus cutting pad. Or would moving up the Menzerna PowerGloss be a better option, but with what pad ?
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I have used IP with an orange LC pad and I could have went right to a LSP if I wanted to it finished that good. I still did FP II with a polishing pad just for the extra 1%.

I would try IP with a cutting pad before I would go to Powergloss.
 
Are you sure they are some type of chip in the clear coat or is is some type of contaniment ontop of the paint? I would guess this is the case and you don't notice them until the polish gets on them and then they catch your eye. When has the car been clayed last??? If I am understanding what you are saying, claying the vehicle will remove these specs. However if you have clayed recently and if its a clean surface and it is a chip, you'll need to live with it, try your best to get it to what looks decent to you or get a paint job.
 
Now that I know its been done, I will try IP with orange (or cutting pad) first to see what happens. I don't have PG but may try it in the future. Thanks.
 
Budman: Before 3 months ago the car was never polished and the finish looked good. I attempted my first claying using Zaino claybar and when done, noticed marring and light scratches all over the finish. At that point I tried polishing by hand using ScratchX. Didn't work. Bought a PC and did my first polish job on the car using #80, multiple passes. Looked ok and got rid of most of the marring. That's when I noticed the tiny specs which were not apparent before. So I bought some IP and FP and did the hood. Finished nice and clean, all swirls and marring removed, but tiny spec like looking pits on the surface. Not sure what it is as I have owned the car since it was new. They are on hood, trunk, roof. Because the finish is so clean now, they stand out :down:
 
mpmiller37 said:
Budman: Before 3 months ago the car was never polished and the finish looked good. I attempted my first claying using Zaino claybar and when done, noticed marring and light scratches all over the finish. At that point I tried polishing by hand using ScratchX. Didn't work. Bought a PC and did my first polish job on the car using #80, multiple passes. Looked ok and got rid of most of the marring. That's when I noticed the tiny specs which were not apparent before. So I bought some IP and FP and did the hood. Finished nice and clean, all swirls and marring removed, but tiny spec like looking pits on the surface. Not sure what it is as I have owned the car since it was new. They are on hood, trunk, roof. Because the finish is so clean now, they stand out :down:
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Even though the car is "new" it could have been repainted because of damage from shipping. If the repaint is crap (which is likely if it was done by the dealer) than you could be seeing solvent pop.
 
Anthony A said:
I have used IP with an orange LC pad and I could have went right to a LSP if I wanted to it finished that good. I still did FP II with a polishing pad just for the extra 1%.

I would try IP with a cutting pad before I would go to Powergloss.
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Anthony will this work with po85rd?
 
mpmiller37 said:
I'm not positive that's its pitting. It looks like very tiny white specs on the paint that were not noticable until all the swirls were removed. I was just going to attempt a small sectin with something more aggressive and if it didn't work, I would live with it.
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Try clay first. I've seen the 'white spec' effect before on black, and I think it was caused by a sealer/wax combo that I tried. They showed up a day or so later. My wife has a black Tahoe and it has very tiny pits in the paint (hood). I'm not sure if you can do anything to remove them. IMO they were caused by acid rain and/or crap hitting the hood when you're driving. You can level them out to some extent, but you're sacrificing clear coat for a mild improvement.

I use IP with a medium cut pads from time to time, and it does very well on swirls (but you usually need to follow up with FPII). IP & FPII used to be my go to combo. IP tends to dust. Keeping your pads clean will help keep it down. If you mist water (or non wax QD -I use S&W) on the paint, it will make the polish more aggressive. These days I prefer Optimum Polish over IP, but I still use IP from time to time.
 
I believe what you are seeing could either be etching, or from the clear not being sanded down enough to the lowest point of the "valleys" when it was painted. At my work, we have been seeing a lot of cars with these dots/specs all over, even after solvent cleaning, and mild and aggressive claying.

-Shaun
 
Does the pitting look like this??:

2.jpg


Close up:

4.jpg
 
mgm2003 said:
blkyukon - The second shot is EXACTLY what I have. There's not much you can do with it is there?
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I've had it on my hood from day 1 and it's still there...if it's solvent pop it came from the factory like that (my Yukon still had the plastic on it when I first saw it) Mine isn't the only factory paint I've seen it on either.

I'm sure you can get rid of it by using a more aggressive approach but I'm not willing to compromise my clearcoat to find out.
 
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