Anyone here use "Wet Paint" before?

See what I was getting at too with my original post is that one doesn't need to just spray it on a dirty car to use...if I purchase this stuff down the road I'll still do a 2 bucket wash with multiple sheepskin mitts and make sure the car is clean first "just in case"...In other words I am not looking for an "all in one" product...simply something that might make a good LSP for my car.

What I am more interested in really is your opinion on the end results this stuff can provide...and also in all your expert opinions if its safe to use every 1-2 months on a car you care about. Personally I didn't like the fact it contains kerosine....doesn't sound like its too good for the paint in the long run.

And yes I know this stie represents the top 10% or so of people who love a clean car, and hence why I wanted to ask this here.
 
Why not just ask the manufacturer directly instead of relying on speculation? That should give you a satisfactory answer. Unlike most, at least the MSDS is posted on the site.

Just for the heck of it I looked up the MSDS's, which took some doing, on hand glazes from 3M, Malco, and others this morning. Several have kerosene, naptha, and various petroleum derivitives at three times the amount shown in WP. Some are very popular products.....but I had to dig to find the MSDS's. Maybe that's why they don't get the cold shoulder, it's too much trouble to look them up.

No matter, it works for me so I'm happy!
 
RTexas,

Thanks for directing us to this product. I can see where it would have a definite place on my shelves.

I am contemplating using it on my personal vehicles during the winter here in the Northeast. Maybe something like this:

1-Go to the local U-SPRAY-IT car wash and go over the car with rinse/soap/rinse. Do not scrub anything except maybe the tires.

2-Do not dry, instead, drive home and air dry.

3-Use WET PAINT per the directions.

Do I dare use this on 2 brand new cars to keep them maintained during the winter months, or rely on something like the Klasse Twins that I already have on one car with a new application to get me from Nov-Mar???

One question is where they discuss using it with a BUFFER and MF bonnets:
http://www.wetpaintglaze.com/story.html

I am wondering if they are talking about using the buffer to apply and remove, or just remove??? The directions for hand app. say to use a terry applicator-primed w/product, then spray on car and buff to haze. I'm thinking a terry bonnet for applying and mf bonnet to remove???

Thanks
 
The Klasse twins are absolutely top shelf products, no two ways about it. I use them myself depending on the situation.

I think that your approach with the new cars is sound.....knock off the majority of the crud and apply two coats of WP (my recommendation), in order to make sure no spots are missed. By machine or by hand it works extremely well for me......... your call on your results.

Thank you for being open minded to an 18 year old (new) product.

I have used AIO followed with WP with excellent success. It is so much easier to apply than Klasse SG and yields the same results. In spite of those that think I sell it, which I don't, it has its place on the shelf.

I'm only trying to share what I have found with those that have shared so much knowledge with me.

For me the terry bonnet followed by a MF (by hand) wipe down yields the best results, but I'm not saying that is the optimal way to do it.
 
RTexasF said:
The Klasse twins are absolutely top shelf products, no two ways about it. I use them myself depending on the situation.

I think that your approach with the new cars is sound.....knock off the majority of the crud and apply two coats of WP (my recommendation), in order to make sure no spots are missed. By machine or by hand it works extremely well for me......... your call on your results.

Thank you for being open minded to an 18 year old (new) product.

I have used AIO followed with WP with excellent success. It is so much easier to apply than Klasse SG and yields the same results. In spite of those that think I sell it, which I don't, it has its place on the shelf.

I'm only trying to share what I have found with those that have shared so much knowledge with me.

For me the terry bonnet followed by a MF (by hand) wipe down yields the best results, but I'm not saying that is the optimal way to do it.
Click to expand...

Tex-Thanks for taking all the time to explain this product. For $20, I'm going to give it a shot. I do weekend paid details, so I'll try it out on someone's car that wants a budget deal. Between this and Aquawax, I'll be able to offer a great shine and good protection for those customers who only want a shiny car and not pay for any extra polishing steps. Then, if I like the process, I'll try on one of my own. The order is being placed now~!

P.S.---The gal on the phone wanted to know where I heard about the product. I told her DETAIL CITY, and she gave a pleasing chuckle and said they've had a lot of action from this forum~!
 
I'm sure it will work as well for you as it has for me. As with some other products it's easy to use too much so be aware of that.

To avoid overspray on a portion you've just wiped down I suggest you do the entire car then wipe it all down. It does NOT get harder to remove if left on for a while, even overnight.

PM me if you have any questions. I'm not the authority on it but I've used it for a while and have some experience with it that I'll be glad to share.
 
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