Anybody know anything about mid 90's Jaguar Paint?

C

cptzippy

New member
In particular 1994 Glacier White. Is it generally hard or soft? One suggestion for hard already and I would have assumed soft.



TIA,

Tony
 
Going to try this "one" more time, since I was booted as I was in the middle of explaining the DuPont paint system used at that time.



The "English" wanted what they wanted back then, even though they had the Ford World Wide system behind them.(at least Ford was able to remove most of the Lucas electrical things from the builds-so if a dog took a wee on a wheel, it would start)



They used a "clear" that was old school, more of a "lacquer" based clear than what the Ford system was using.



It was not a more modern "urethane-2 part" clear.



As such, it would cure out to be rather "hard" as it grew older.



This is why so many Jag's like your's are now showing "crazing/cracking" of the clearcoats.



So, after all the long winded explaination, "it's a hard mutha" unless it has been subject to a repair or complete refinish in it's life.



Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham- Yeah, it's a bit of a mystery when Jag switched completely over to b/c; I've never got a straight answer on it even from the guys who oughta know. Heh heh, I've had people try to tell my mine is b/c just because it's a metallic :rolleyes



captzippy- Heh heh, if yours does the cracking/crazing thing, just think of it as "patina"/originality. Seriously! Hey, it's a not-new/imperfect when it *was* new British car, the rules are different for those than they are for, say....a Lexus.
 
I have detailed a couple of Ford Jag's from the mid to late 90's and the paint was hard but also very sticky

my first encounter with sticky paint
 
The "hard but sticky" paint that my GMC had would really retain polishing oils, just an incredible [hassle] getting the paint truly "bare".
 
What's the best to get it the oils out then? I've got Prepsol, could easily get IPA, or some of the special sprays (Top Inspection etc).
 
Back to this to ask a where to start question. Should I assume it's hard and start with pretty aggressive pad polish combo?



Here's what I have to use now:

Polishes:

Meg's D300

Wolf's WP-3N

OPT Hyper Polish Spray

Menz SF4000



Pads:

OPT Cutting

LC Hydro Cyan and Tangerine

Uber Orange, Green, Blue

6.5 inch Prima full set of foam pads
 
cptzippy said:
Back to this to ask a where to start question. Should I assume it's hard and start with pretty aggressive pad polish combo?
Click to expand...



This will fly in the face of the conventional wisdom, which is to always start with the mildest combo, so disclaimer: "Always start with the mildest combo and work up from there".



With that out of the way, I believe that correction is almost always a LOT harder than people expect it to be. I'd probably just start with the D300.



But again...yeah yeah, just give it a try with the milder combo (your tangerine/WP-3N sounds like the "right thing to try first") and see if that's sufficient. But when it's not, go ahead and get very aggressive.
 
Think I'll go the semi conservative route. Don't really think there's a reason to start out with the Menz SF4000 and a light pad. Want to try out the Wolf's; heard good things about it.
 
Got my Highline II and finally got to use it today. Just did some random testings on each panel to get a rough idea.



Hood - 159 microns

Left Front Fender - 263

Right Front Fender - 231

Driver Door - 480 (car fax had said it had had a repair there)

Passenger Door - 222

Left rear fender - 281

Right rear fender - 205

Trunk - 177



So do you notice anything from these numbers? Is Jaguar paint from this era usually this thick?



I guess the good news is that I have plenty to work with :)
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Change the readout to mils and I can offer some input.

Grumpy
Click to expand...



Hood - 5.5

Left Front Fender - 10.7

Right Front Fender - 7.3

Driver Door - 26 (car fax had said it had had a repair there)

Passenger Door - 7.4

Left rear fender - 7.6

Right rear fender - 9.3

Trunk - 6.4



done very quickly
 
captzippy- With mine in storage up in Clevelan, I can even take readings for comparison, not that they're really the same vintage anyhow. But yeah, those sound *really* thick :think:



Wonder if it's a "story car"...no, that's not a slam at least not from me, mine was almost completely repainted about halfway through manufacture, weirdest thing my Jag guys have ever seen and they've seen a lot of 'em. Some of these cars just have odd stories in their history that leave us :confused:



Makes it tricky to know how much paint to take off, huh?!?
 
Accumulator said:
captzippy- With mine in storage up in Clevelan, I can even take readings for comparison, not that they're really the same vintage anyhow. But yeah, those sound *really* thick :think:



Wonder if it's a "story car"...no, that's not a slam at least not from me, mine was almost completely repainted about halfway through manufacture, weirdest thing my Jag guys have ever seen and they've seen a lot of 'em. Some of these cars just have odd stories in their history that leave us :confused:



Makes it tricky to know how much paint to take off, huh?!?
Click to expand...



Not familiar with the term 'story car'. I know it's got the correct color code on the door for what's on it. Truth be known though, white isn't my favorite color.
 
I have owned my 1997 Sapphire blue XK-8 Since 2006. Base coat clear coat. My advice would be dont be too aggresive on it. If its crackiing....that is coming from the body side. All the polishing in the world wont resolve that. If the paint is just dirty. Coumpound to light cleaner. Then a light buff with a green pad and polish of your choice. I dont know about any sticky. Every auto paint feels somewhat different under the pad. I have been at this since 1969. I have experienced a few surfaces since then!!! "Paintxpert" SHINE Since 1969. I do xkes quite a bit. Most are new paint though.
 
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