Any Pro's can Shed Some Insight on PPF Install

P

pingable

New member
For you pros that install PPF, or know the basic mechanics of it.



Cutting a outside *edge to edge* is pretty straightforward.

As a analogy, the underside CUP of the handle.

How do you make a cut for this.



The question is actually for my $$$ Honda Snowblower.

I plan to buy film and Line the Inside of the Bucket as well the Chute. Thicker is better IMO for this application. You guys may advise me otherwise and recommend a less thicker product so it can hug curves/crevices better.
 
I have a plotter and a program that will provide me the exact pieces required for installing just about any piece I could need.



Let's say someone needed a last minute cup installation and a plotter was out of the question. I would cut a template and do a rough test fit. From there I would cut the film and install. Bottom line, it's about being symmetrical in appearance.



If you do not have experience with installing ppf, I would not advise you freehand cut film that is already applied to a surface unless you do not care if you cut through(cut the surface that the ppf is supposed to protect). Beyond the cutting, if you're not working with a flat surface and don't have experience, you can go batty learning how to get film to lay flush on a curved surface.
 
If a "perfect" appearance isn't important, couldn't you heat the film and stretch or shrink it to fit the contour, similar to installing a vinyl wrap or window tint?
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
If a "perfect" appearance isn't important, couldn't you heat the film and stretch or shrink it to fit the contour, similar to installing a vinyl wrap or window tint?
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Yes and no. Vinyl and clear bra respond differently to heat as well as install slightly different(in general). With clear bra, a slip solution is necessary. Finding the happy balance between the clear bra and slip solution being heated and applied properly can be difficult. High-slip slip solution can give a lot of work time but be difficult to apply or heat to a curved surface. Low-slip slip solution can be better but will not give you the opportunities to apply/remove/reapply that a high-slip will allow. PPF is a monster to learn how to apply well on complex curves. IPA water mix solution means 1-chance at proper application.



If he is only doing a small cup area, he can buy 2 sq ft of ppf and have a lot of goes at it to figure it out and it won't cost much.
 
I'm wondering whether the PPF in the bucket/chute of a snowblower is a good idea to begin with...wouldn't want to do it to mine, if it somehow failed to stay adhered it might make for some real problems.
 
Accumulator said:
I'm wondering whether the PPF in the bucket/chute of a snowblower is a good idea to begin with...wouldn't want to do it to mine, if it somehow failed to stay adhered it might make for some real problems.
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That's what shear bolts are there for......

It can't be any harder than a branch or stone.....which sometimes do get unfiltered. And when have you seen a PPF unbond. The only time for me, was thick film, on a curved foglight, Hot Xenon.





I believe the benefits are out there. I'm incumbed to DIY this....but maybe best left to a pro. Just kinda silly to pissmoney to a pro for a snowblower. My guy uses hot water and flushes it when he's doing a *stretch* over a whole panel. Pretty interesting to watch the pros at work.
 
chefwong- OK, I'm sure not gonna argue against it! I just had visions of lying in the snow trying to unwrap a twisted up disaster (before doing those shear bolts).



Eh, I gotta admit that I'm pretty...uhm, negligent with regard to mine. Or maybe I should be generous and just say I let "form follow function".



But then somebody could probably make a good (functional) case for doing a whole lot more than I do too :o My less-powerful previous one did benefit a little from waxing up the insides.
 
As a fellow snowblower enthusiast (this is sad, in a way) I am concerned that the film would add some friction to the chute areas where you really want no resistance so the snow can fly better. I also wax my chute because I think it helps (and because I'm bored).



I know film is pretty slick, and can be waxed to make it more slippery. But I am concerned that the film deformation when struck by an object (which is how it works to prevent chips) will actually SLOW the passing of snow and debris. That's where cold (pun intended) hard steel just bounces it through.



Just a thought. Man, I need another hobby. ;)
 
Brad B. said:
As a fellow snowblower enthusiast (this is sad, in a way) I am concerned that the film would add some friction to the chute areas where you really want no resistance so the snow can fly better. I also wax my chute because I think it helps (and because I'm bored).



I know film is pretty slick, and can be waxed to make it more slippery. But I am concerned that the film deformation when struck by an object (which is how it works to prevent chips) will actually SLOW the passing of snow and debris. That's where cold (pun intended) hard steel just bounces it through.



Just a thought. Man, I need another hobby. ;)
Click to expand...



I don't really care about 40 feet of throw ;-)

Or raising the impeller speed and maximizing the clearnance of the impeller area ;-)



Actually, Yamaha does line their chute area. Not the bucket. I have not gotten around to it, but I'm planning to do the as much paint as I can (bucket, chute and the sides/wrapping the weld/bottom the bucket) being the primary 3 and then the rest can follow.
 
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