Any pointers for first time using SIP

Always start the least aggressive method first. So the white LC CCS Pad should be to one to go to.
 
Dewalt DW849

About 2 years ago, myself and Ryan Blanchette spent hours on the phone, testing, and re-testing PO85RD3.02 (which would become SIP) and comparing notes.

The technique we developed was start with a small amount of polish on the paint, maybe a 4 inch line, and to pick the bead up at about 1000 rpm. Work over the paint for several passes, until a very uniform, thin film of product covers the section.

Increase the RPM, more with each pass, to about 1500-1800, and increase your pressure slightly. Work with smooth passes for a good while, until the polish starts to flash slightly, then reduce pressure and RPM with each subsquent pass. By the time you make your final couple of passes at 1000 rpm, the polish should be flashed and ready to remove.

To recap: SIP has a long work time, but makes the most of it. Start it at a slow boil, bring up the speed and pressure, and work until it just starts to flash (this will be hard to determine when the pad becomes saturated), then reduce rpm and keep the polish working at the flash point. Once you get the hang of it SIP will finish down really well and provide some great results.
 
Also if you have you are using an orange pad from another vendor it might better to stick with a white pad. Please remember that we are the only one who use the highest quality foams on all pad sizes, and that the constant pressure technology on our orange foam in particular makes them very easy to use. The other orange foam pads can have poor quality foam or be so stiff that they are very hard to control!
 
[The technique we developed was start with a small amount of polish on the paint, maybe a 4 inch line, and to pick the bead up at about 1000 rpm. Work over the paint for several passes, until a very uniform, thin film of product covers the section.

Increase the RPM, more with each pass, to about 1500-1800, and increase your pressure slightly. Work with smooth passes for a good while, until the polish starts to flash slightly, then reduce pressure and RPM with each subsquent pass. By the time you make your final couple of passes at 1000 rpm, the polish should be flashed and ready to remove. ] TH001

That's how I was taught to use my Father?s Black & Decker back in the day (maybe that should be back (way back) in the day) ;)
 
;)
[The technique we developed was start with a small amount of polish on the paint, maybe a 4 inch line, and to pick the bead up at about 1000 rpm. Work over the paint for several passes, until a very uniform, thin film of product covers the section.

Increase the RPM, more with each pass, to about 1500-1800, and increase your pressure slightly. Work with smooth passes for a good while, until the polish starts to flash slightly, then reduce pressure and RPM with each subsquent pass. By the time you make your final couple of passes at 1000 rpm, the polish should be flashed and ready to remove. ] TH001

That's how I was taught to use my Father?s Black & Decker back in the day (maybe that should be back (way back) in the day) ;)


I really wish he would have showed me. The rpm method (start at a low boil and bring up the heat) is pretty common place, with the only exception being that I find that SIP likes a little more time at low rpm, which was the point I was trying to illustrate. Most polishes are spread at low RPM, where as I find SIP likes to be worked in at low RPM.

Also, SIP doesn't seem to flash like a traditional polish, but rather the difference is much more subtle. With a clean unsaturated pad it is noticeable change however. The trick, at least to me, is reduce the RPM at pressure at a rate that keeps the polish from simply flashing off, but rather keeps it on this transitional fulcrum, so that the polish can level itself out and refine itself. If SIP is over worked (almost clear) before RPM and pressure is dialed out, the finish isn't usually at it's highest potential.

By the same token, if the polish is under worked (not enough pressure/rpm) before the pressure/RPM is dialed back, SIP can be very difficult to remove and may have 'filling' problems.
 
This was posted on the wall of his detailing area-

Polishing Pyramid System

High Speed Rotary
Using a Sliding Scale 600-900-1200 rpm- commence by spreading the product and then start polishing by setting the speed to 600 rpm, then adjust to 900rpm culminating at 1200rpm then descend to 900rpm and finish at 600rpm; linear speed should be 2 ? 3 inch per second (IPS) 1200 rpm is where most of the paint surface defects will be removed. There probably will be some polishing defects (holograms, etc) by descending the sliding scale (1200-900-600rpm) you will remove these and any other minor defects
1.Spread at 600rpm, single pass
2.Begin polishing at 1200rpm, 2 - 4 passes
3.Increase speed to 1500rpm, 10 passes until abrasives breakdown
4.Refine at 1200rpm, 2 - 3 passes

Random Orbital Polisher

Slow Hand method - (apologies to Eric C) using a random orbital polisher, Menzerna Final Finish (PO 106 FF) and a LC White CCS foam pad - this polish is formulated with very finely milled micro diminishing abrasives that allows for a consistent breakdown and thus a consistent micro marring free finish

Start at speed # 4, move the pad slowly across the area, then speed # 5, without any pressure, when the polish starts to go clear, spray the pad with distilled water, reduce to speed # 4, then spray pad again, increase to speed # 5 and apply pressure.

Apply polish at a machine linear speed (MLS) of approximately 0.25 to 0.5-inch per second for each 2-foot x 2-foot panel (hence ?slow hand?) Burnish paint surface using an ultra-fine (100 PPI) finishing, primed foam pad (LC Black Finessing CCS Foam pad) this method is time consuming but the results are well worthwhile.


An extract from one of a series of in-depth detailing articles ? TOGWT ? Ltd Copyright 2002-2008, all rights reserved.
 
Long working time is right! I used SIP on my Flex and wow- just get too much on the pad one time, bet you won't do it again!
 
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