Any fixes for rust in trunk lip?

gpshumway-Welcome to Autopia!



I've used both and wouldn't expect any undesirable interaction between the existing Wurth and the ValuGard stuff.



BUT...if the Wurth is already covering/sealing/protecting the areas in question, I don't see any point in applying *anything* more on top of it. AFAIK the Wurth doesn't degrade/dissipate/"go away" so IMO you're just adding more and more stuff on top of the somewhat minimal amount of it actually required to prevent corrosion.



Plus, IMO too much can be just as bad as not enough it it results in some kind of build up that just might retain water/ect., exactly the sort of thing you're trying to head off.



BTW, I prefer Amsoil's Heavy Duty Metal Protector for hardware that will be disassembled. Lighter and "cleaner" product that's better suited to that kind of application. You mentioned changing a flat in winter, and this is the stuff I use to make sure the under-vehicle spare's mounting hardware stays in good shape.



For subframes/etc. I like Eastwood's Black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust, which dries very clean and dry, ending up almost like a satin/matte black paint.



Oh, and if you haven't tried it, Wurth's Rost Off is another good metal treatment spray to have on the shelf.



Heh heh, guess I have a pretty wide assortment of rust-prevention products!
 
In the body cavities, I have little reason to re-apply frequently (though I probably will do so every few years). It's on the more "active" surfaces of the undercarriage where I may switch to the ValuGard, things like a-arms and steering knuckles. I haven't used Eastwood's Heavy Duty Anti-Rust, thought I've used their coroless and chassis black paint products with success in the past, I'll check it out.



I have a can of HDMP which I haven't cracked open yet. I was going to use it in place of the Boeshield T9 I've been using on exposed aluminum surfaces primarily in the engine bay. Boeshield is nice and "clean", but less persistent than the Wurth product. Brake heat makes it go away really fast, maybe the Amsoil product will prove better on brakes.
 
gpshumway said:
In the body cavities, I have little reason to re-apply frequently (though I probably will do so every few years). It's on the more "active" surfaces of the undercarriage where I may switch to the ValuGard, things like a-arms and steering knuckles. I haven't used Eastwood's Heavy Duty Anti-Rust, thought I've used their coroless and chassis black paint products with success in the past, I'll check it out. ..
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The coroless is now called Rust Encapsulator.



The Black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust is what I'd use for those A-arms/etc. that you don't want to bother "doing right" (scare-quotes intentional as the BHDAR works fine and looks like paint). Much as I like the ValuGard stuff, I wouldn't use it for those areas.



I have a can of HDMP which I haven't cracked open yet. I was going to use it in place of the Boeshield T9 I've been using on exposed aluminum surfaces primarily in the engine bay. Boeshield is nice and "clean", but less persistent than the Wurth product. Brake heat makes it go away really fast, maybe the Amsoil product will prove better on brakes.
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I've never used it on brakes, nor on areas that show. Never tried the Bioshield, sounds like it might be a little cleaner. If you try the HDMP, I'd appreciate hearing how it compares to the Bioshield.



FWIW, I treated the under-vehicle spare mounting hardware on the Tahoe with the HDMP years ago. Even though I give it a cursory cleaning with APC/etc. at every wash, the HSMP is still holding on and preventing corrosion.



What brake components are you thinking about for this sort of treatment?
 
Accumulator said:
The Black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust is what I'd use for those A-arms/etc. that you don't want to bother "doing right" (scare-quotes intentional as the BHDAR works fine and looks like paint). Much as I like the ValuGard stuff, I wouldn't use it for those areas.
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Interesting, though I may have to clean the Wurth BCS off before trying the Eastwood stuff. Lots of good products out there, it's too hard to know them all. The WURTH BCS seems to last a winter on most exterior surfaces, though it's gone from the most active surfaces by the spring.





I've never used it on brakes, nor on areas that show. Never tried the Bioshield, sounds like it might be a little cleaner. If you try the HDMP, I'd appreciate hearing how it compares to the Bioshield.
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I'm not trying to be pedantic, but it's Boeshield as in Boeing, not Bio as in Biological. It was originally developed by Boeing to protect exposed surfaces of airplanes until the customer could paint them. I've used it for years as a chain lube for my road bike. It works well under the hood on unprotected aluminum, but it doesn't seem to stand up to heat as well as the Wurth BCS. Amsoil HDMP advertises similar properties, so I ordered a can to try with my last Amsoil order. I'll do my best to remember to report back after using the HDMP. I'll probably try it as a chain lube next time I tune my bike as well.



Boeshield Website



FWIW, I treated the under-vehicle spare mounting hardware on the Tahoe with the HDMP years ago. Even though I give it a cursory cleaning with APC/etc. at every wash, the HSMP is still holding on and preventing corrosion.



What brake components are you thinking about for this sort of treatment?
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Good to hear the HDMP lasts a long time on what I assume is uncoated hardware, maybe I'll just try it and skip a new order of ValuGuard or Wurth BCS.



I use Wurth BCS on the brake rotor/hubs of my WRX to prevent corrosion. The wheel mounting surface and the "tophat" part of the rotors are coated with what I believe to be manganese phosphate. Treating these surfaces with BCS prevents corrosion and leaves a reasonably attractive dark-brown/black finish as long as I re-do it relatively frequently. I use a light coating in the summer which stays black, the heavier winter coating ends up a little more brown. The thick coating lasts pretty easily through a winter, but a track day or autocross will kill a thick coating pretty fast and leave a stink. I use a fresh spray of BCS each time I rotate the wheels to dissolve the old waxy coating and leave a fresh layer. I believe some treatment like this to be essential in keeping the wheel mounting surface flat and free of corrosion. I use two sets of wheels (winter + summer) and they have slightly different hub configurations, any corrosion would cause them to no longer sit flat on the hub face.



The other area I use it on is the central vents (vented rotors). These surfaces seem to lack the phosphate coating, being simple black cast iron. The BCS doesn't work quite as well on these surfaces, though mine look much better after six MN winters than most. This seems to be confirmed by BCS's somewhat poor performance on the steering knuckles which are also black cast iron. I'm guessing the heat in the vents is much greater than at the hub and that's the reason for poor performance. Maybe Eastwood HDAR would work better on the knuckles, I'll give it a try.



I formerly used Boeshield on the brakes/hubs on other cars, but the brake heat seemed to kill it on the tophat area. It worked fine on the wheel mounting surface/hub. Those cars didn't have mag phosphate on the hubs though, so I don't know exactly how much better BCS is. My Honda Civic is relatively new and lacking the mag phosphate, so we'll see how the BCS does on those rotors in a couple of years.



I should probably fill in my signature with the cars I own...
 
gpshumway- Thanks for schooling me Re the Boeshield (and never any worries about being pendantic where I'm concerned ;) ).



The vented edges of the rotors are aways a challenge! Next time I buy rotors I'm leaning towards having them coated with something; I've seen a few powder/ceramic coating places offer something that they say is good/OK for rotors (such as this NitroPlate- High Performance Ceramic Header Coatings - Nitroplate ). For now I'm just living with the unsightly corrosion.



On the rotor hats, what about using something like RustSeal Galvanized Steel by KBS Coatings - Stop Rust - Rust Paint ? That's what I'm leaning towards on some rotor hats that are bugging me in this regard. I do wonder about application uniformity/thickness (the "flatness" issue you mentioned) on the mounting surfaces but I'm hoping it won't be a problem.



I'm currently doing OK with anti-sieze paste on the mounting surfaces of the hats, on the areas where contact with the wheels and exposure to salt/etc. cause corrosion. I have basically zero issues with the corrosion causing functional problems even on the vehicles I drive in the winter, not like the wheels get stuck-on or anything like that.
 
I've thought about using something more paint-like on the hats, but worries about flatness, the time it takes to properly prep them and the effectiveness of my current solution have kept me from doing so. I seriously considered putting POR15 on the hats of the Civic when I painted the calipers with POR 15. It's a case of "if it aint broke..." the rotors on my WRX will look quite decent through the wheels right up until I have to replace them. When I do replace them, I'll buy a set of premium rotors from Centric or DBA which come pre-coated with a corrosion resistant coating on the vane and hat areas. Some are zinc plated (galvanized) others are painted, all should survive longer than OEM rotors, and are a lot less hassle than painting oneself.



Edit:

Aarghh - Is there a minimum post requirement to paste links? It won't let me paste a link to the DBA or Centric product info pages. I'm too lazy to type them longhand.
 
gpshumway- I think you'd like the KBS stuff a lot better than POR15, I know I do.



Note that the zinc/etc.-washed/plated ones don't stay nice. One winter will have 'em rusty, that finish just isn't much of anything when it comes right down to it. I've had *scads* of "factory finished" rotors and not one of 'em held up to my satisfaction.



Heh heh, this thread is really getting me motivated to take care of this stuff on a few of my vehicles!



Oh, for calipers, I'm currently all about Goldline Brakes (link: http://www.goldlinebrakes.com/ ). Unless I'm upgrading with a Big Brake Kit, that's where I'd send 'em. I'd go that route before buying new (stock-spec) calipers.
 
Both Centric and DBA make upgrade rotors with much more robust coatings than the typical gold Zinc Dichromate. They're often referred to as being for "show cars". Some are powder coated, others have electrlized metal plating. I believe Stoptech (Centric's premium brand) has rotors that are plated with electroless Nickel. At any rate there appear to be options which are much better than the typical cold zinc wash.



Thanks for the tip on Goldline. I'll consider them next time I need to have calipers rebuilt. Hopefully it'll be quite a while though. The WRX came with painted calipers, and the Civic's POR 15 is holding up well so far.
 
gpshumway- Ah, good info on the upgraded rotors. Can't remember whose I went with the last few times I did "upgraded" rotors, but oh man was I disappointed in the finish (some of 'em were pricey too).



Interesting that you mentioned StopTech as they're supposedly working on a brake package that'd fit my newer Crown Vic. If they do get it figured out we'll see what their rotors have finish-wise.



I'm about to get a set of DuraSlots, and after I get 'em Cryo'ed I think I'll send them off for that NitroPlate. The calipers are going to GoldLine.
 
Yea, I'll caveat my research by saying I haven't personally used any of the "show car" rotors yet. They're at least marketed as being highly corrosion resistant by companies which are well respected.
 
Hey, getting back to the original topic of this thread....



I repaired some rust on the lower seam of the left "barn door" on my Tahoe. It was one of those "hopeless cases" where the real solution is to just get a new door shell since you can never get into the area to really fix the rust. Note the scare-quotes around "hopeless case" though ;)



Any expert would say the door was toast though, it's just one of those things where no repair can be expected to last. I'd even called my paint/body guy about having it done, but then I started thinking about DIYing it. Hey, this thing's my POS dog-truck and I spend stupid money on it as it is!



So...I ground out the rust as best I could with my Dremel and various diamond burrs. Did a pretty thorough job, spent quite a few hours on it over the course of a few days. Managed to grind out all the rust that I could see, but still....gotta be more that I couldn't get to, where the panels are folded over and welded. By the time I was finished it was awfully ground-up, but nothing that'd show when the door was closed; luckily, I'd gotten to it just before it spread just a *little* farther to where it *would've* been visible.



I treated the area with a product called MetalBlast (best rust remover/etch stuff I've ever used) and painted it with RustBullet. Three applications, then sanded a bit and redid the sanded areas with two more. Got it down into the seam as best I could using both brushes and a paint syringe.



Brushed touchup paint on the part that's visible (oh man did I do a terrible job of this part :o ).



That was over a year ago, and the Tahoe got *VERY* salty over the winter...like caked-on in this area. A thorough inspection shows that the repair is still doing great. Zero new (visible) rust.



For comparison, the last time I had a shop do a fix like this it started rusting again within six months and was downright awfull after the first winter. That's why I'd been thinking that the only real fix would be a new door.



Was this the "right" fix? Depends how you look at it. It's not as good as a new door with proper rustproofing and professional painting, no question about that. But for a *very* inexpensive fix of an area that doesn't show...well, I'm satisfied. At least for now.



If/when it rots out, I'll post back...but for now all is well.
 
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