Any advice for year old Optimum Gloss-Coat renewal?

D

dschur

New member
So I put Optimum Gloss-Coat on my 2007 Corvette (and a Mini, MDX and Jeep Wrangler :) ) a year ago after a full correction with Meguiars Clay, then Buffing with a Porter Cable/Orange Pad/Megs 105, followed by White Pad/Megs 205, IPA wipedown and application of Gloss-Coat.

The coating has been great and has held up well. It is not driven in the winter or nasty.

I was thinking of renewing it this year rather than stretching it to 2 but wanted to skip the whole 9 yards. The paint is still in very good shape (largely helped by the Gloss-Coat I suspect) and does not appear to need correction. What I was thinking of doing was skip the clay and the Orange/105, and just buff it with a white pad(or orange?)/205, IPA Wipe and apply a new layer of Gloss-Coat.

Any thoughts or recommendations on this would be greatly appreciated. I was thinking that if I could get by with 1 pass and reapply, next time around (year 3) I would do the whole correction again.
 
If the paint is still in good shape i would just clay it and reapply the gloss coat. Or even top the existing coating with opti seal if you still think the coating is intact.
 
I would first try a reset wash , if that won`t bring it back. I would iron X and wash with apc. If that is not bring back the beading it time to finish polish and re coat. My gloss cost is 2 years old and a simple apc wash brought it back to life right after winter.
 
If you listen to the guys on the Optimum Synergy Podcast, Dann talks about a decon wash with an iron remover. Give that a try first. You could always follow up with opti-seal as an option if you have it.
 
Claying is certainly an option, but frankly it takes me close to the same time as a 1-pass and I always feel like I need a wash afterwards ( I may be dense on my clay strategy). I don`t know how to do a clay job fast and easy it`s just not in my DNA to date.

The decon wash with an iron remover sounds appealing, what does it entail? (not done one before), but I`d ask, is it as thorough as a 1-pass? I`m not worried about beading, I still seem to have that pretty good, I`d just like to clan/top off the protection level and look. I have lots of Opti-Seal on hand but have avoided applying it over the gloss-coat (figured it was a waste of time).

Does just a 1-pass with 205 surpass these other options, or is it too tough on the existing coating?
 
Should add, thanks a ton for the advice/help here, I`m a bit stuck between doing something (which I tend to want to do) and just letting it go for another year.
 
dschur said:
Claying is certainly an option, but frankly it takes me close to the same time as a 1-pass and I always feel like I need a wash afterwards ( I may be dense on my clay strategy). I don`t know how to do a clay job fast and easy it`s just not in my DNA to date.

The decon wash with an iron remover sounds appealing, what does it entail? (not done one before), but I`d ask, is it as thorough as a 1-pass? I`m not worried about beading, I still seem to have that pretty good, I`d just like to clan/top off the protection level and look. I have lots of Opti-Seal on hand but have avoided applying it over the gloss-coat (figured it was a waste of time).

Does just a 1-pass with 205 surpass these other options, or is it too tough on the existing coating?
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The decon wash is an iron remover and a wash. Nothing much to it. I believe Dann Williams and Yvan Lacroix mentioned using a fine grade clay. I would have to listen to episode 6 as I can`t recall correctly. Hopefully Yvan chimes in.

If you use M205, it will remove the coating from the paint as M205 contains abrasives.

Gloss Coat can be topped with opti-seal or optimum car wax with no issues. The products are meant to work with each other.

Pulled this from Autogeek`s product description

Optimum Gloss-Coat is a high-tech polymer system that forms an extra layer of clear coat over painted surfaces, wheels, plastic trim, bumpers, aluminum, and chrome. Formulated by award-winning Dr. David Ghodoussi, Optimum Gloss-Coat is designed to provide unsurpassed resistance to etching caused by harsh detergents, and swirl marks that are often inflicted during the wash process. Surfaces that are coated with Optimum Gloss-Coat will be protected for up to two years.

Optimum Gloss-Coat is much like the clear coat that already exists on your vehicle, except it forms a shell of protection that is glossier, slicker, and less prone to wash-induced swirl marks and marring. Optimum Gloss-Coat creates a self cleaning finish that is considerably easier to clean and maintain compared to conventional waxes and sealants. Carnauba-wax lovers rejoice – Optimum formulated Gloss-Coat so you can top it with your favorite non-abrasive finishing wax.

Optimum Gloss-Coat can be applied to all exterior surfaces. It is not recommended for glass since improper application can affect visibility. For other exterior surfaces, Optimum Gloss-Coat is a highly effective, transparent protective coating.

Optimum Gloss-Coat can be applied to:
  • Painted surfaces
  • Wheels
  • Plastic trim
  • Bumpers
  • Aluminum & chrome surfaces
Optimum Gloss-Coat is an additional barrier between the elements and your vehicle`s paint. The paint will retain its color and contaminants will be blocked out to keep the paint smooth and clean. Unlike waxes and paint sealants that require frequent reapplication, Optimum Gloss-Coat provides constant, unyielding protection for up to two years!

Because Optimum Gloss-Coat is semi-permanent, the paint finish has to be properly prepared before applying it. Any blemishes or contamination on the paint will be locked in so remove them first! On a properly prepared paint finish, Optimum Gloss-Coat will look clear, smooth, and clean.

Once Optimum Gloss-Coat cures, washing is the only maintenance needed to keep your vehicle looking fantastic. The coating can be clayed but it should not be necessary since Gloss-Coat releases contaminants easily. Use detail sprays as desired to intensify the gloss. You can top the coating with your favorite non-abrasive wax or sealant if you desire.
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dschur said:
Should add, thanks a ton for the advice/help here, I`m a bit stuck between doing something (which I tend to want to do) and just letting it go for another year.
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Heh heh, guess the regulars here know what *I* would recommend...even without applying the Bold to your post ;)

Does it really *need* anything? I don`t redo my GlossCoated (or am I still using up old OptiCoat? Whichever...) wheels every year and they probably take a beating compared to your vehicles. I`m disappointed if I have to re-LSP some of my vehicles annually, and having to reCOAT every year seems (well, just to me..) to defeat the point of using a coating in the first place.
 
So the Carpro Reset, and Iron-X route is appealing to me. One of the things I should have mentioned is that while garaged at home, this car is parked every day for a commute at a major commuter rail station outside of Chicago. It`s probably seen the definition of "rail dust". That said, I am totally new to the Carpro products - I`ve never used them before and don`t know how to. How do I use them?

Could I for example Wet the car down (even after a week or so without a wash), then spray Iron-X liberally on a panel or 2, let it dwell for a minute or two then wash with Reset? Would I add anything else to the wash bucket? I generally wash with Meguirs Gold Class and a healthy amount of ONR in the bucket as I like the lubricity - Do I skip both of those with Reset? Does Reset go in the bucket (say a 5 gallon filled to 4, and a rinse bucket), or directly on the MF Bone?

Would I be good to go with a simple spray down of Iron-X with a little dwell time, then a wash with reset, and a new application of Gloss-Coat? Cause that sound pretty stupid simple to me and if it buys me another year or 2, Im all for it.
 
Would I be good to go with a simple spray down of Iron-X with a little dwell time, then a wash with reset, and a new application of Gloss-Coat? Cause that sound pretty stupid simple to me and if it buys me another year or 2, Im all for it.[/QUOTE]

This is the way to go. You are not compromising the coating or instilling any new swirls (with good wash technique). The coating should last another year easily.
 
I often use Mike Phillips Aggressive Wash Method when getting ready to do a decon. The only thing you will skip is the claying part or foam gun part if you don`t have one. You could Ironx, rinse and then wash.

You can wash with Reset or Optimum Car Wash or even ONR. Either way you should be good to go. I did ask Dann Williams of Optimum to go into detail of his decon wash on the optimum podcast. Looks like he will be doing that as he responded to my comment.

Good luck and post up your results.
 
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