Another PC swirl removal thread...

1 Clean WS6 said:
I say tomato you say tomatoe my friend. ;) I think we must take our respective tools in hand...go polish something and agree to disagree. :cool:
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Yeah, experiences vary. Like you I've used the PC for a long time (since the early '90s) on a lot of different cars and I've used the Cyclo since '84 (and I first used a rotary in '78). By now we both know how stuff works for us and arguing is pointless.



Mark77- That's a good question about the PC/4" vs. Cyclo. IMO it's gonna be *so* close performance-wise that I'd call it a toss-up. I'd base the choice on which machine you have/prefer. I of course greatly prefer the Cyclo ;)



But...I'd give the performance edge to the PC with the 4" pads.



Note that I've *never* damaged paint with the Cyclo and I've really leaned on it. But I *have* damaged paint with the PC/4". I hate to read too much into an isolated incident, but considering the countless hours I've spent with the Cyclo the fact that it never damaged any paint for me, I can't ignore what happened with the PC/4".
 
Good to know, becouse the thing about the PC burning through the CC scared me:soscared: I have a Cyclo and I am very happy with it.

But thanks Accumulator for clearing this up for me :heelclick
 
I could not agree with you more Mike. I think the PC was one of the greatest things to change detailing. I have taken swirls out with a pc, and on a couple of occasions using paint cleaners and extremely mild (like paint cleaner) polishes. For me it has been all in the technique, good material of course, the pads, and patience.



PS: Tormado??? Toronado....I liked those a lot lol!!!!!!
 
Thanks for the bump BigAl, this was interesting.



A related question - some of the earlier posts indicated that it was unnecessary to tape while using a PC, unlike a rotary. I'm no expert but I would have thought that taping was desired in either case. Can someone explain.



Thanks,

bw
 
Good thread. After searching and a lil posting, I decided to go straight for the 4" pads. As a new PC user, I wanted to make sure that I could get the correction I need. I just ordered the pads and backing plate, and already have some bottles of Mequiar's 83, 80, 105, 7 and NXT. I'll be posting up pics once I have some practice in and I'm ready to start in on my Durango and Dakota. The Dakota has a good amount of swirls, not quite as bad as the pics in the first post of this thread, but close.
 
IMO I prefer a rotary due to the slower rpm. I use plenty of detailer on the pad and never had a problem. Even with a soft paint like Toyota/Nissan I prefer the rotary. Perhaps as a kid years ago I used to use a pad on an electric drill and that was over 6000 rpm and never burnt the paint work. but that was all we had in the 80's.



:2thumbs:
 
beachwolverine said:
A related question - some of the earlier posts indicated that it was unnecessary to tape while using a PC, unlike a rotary. I'm no expert but I would have thought that taping was desired in either case. Can someone explain...
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With the PC, there's less chance of immediate damage to fragile areas than there is with a rotary. Also less chance of sling and usually less chance of the machine simply "getting away from you", which can happen to beginners using the rotary.



There's simply less chance of something going wrong because the PC is so gentle, so there's generally less need to protect things with the tape.



But if you're worried about polish getting on things it might stain, or about polish building up in inaccessible areas (hint: use less product), then sure, tape no matter what machine you're using.



On certain cars there are areas that simply shouldn't get abraded, and those areas should be taped off as well..e.g., the clear anodized aluminum trim on Audis, edges of painted plastic trim, corners and/or other edges where the paint might be thin.
 
Thanks for the bump Al!! Hope all is well my friend.



I have switched to a Flex 3401 since this thread but the same basic premise still 100% applies.



EisenHulk said:
Did he do a prep-sol/IPA wipe after those last pics?
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Menzerna polishes do not contain fillers so that step was not needed. I did, however, use a glaze after the correction steps (as I do in nearly all my details) to attain that last little bit of "wow". PICS were taken before and after that step to show the difference.
 
1 Clean WS6 said:
Menzerna polishes do not contain fillers so that step was not needed. I did, however, use a glaze after the correction steps (as I do in nearly all my details) to attain that last little bit of "wow". PICS were taken before and after that step to show the difference.
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You'll never know until you try that step......
 
1 Clean WS6 said:
Menzerna polishes do not contain fillers so that step was not needed.
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Menzerna *can* and *will* fill on certain paints with a PC. It will look perfect at first and even after an IPA wipe, however, a few washes down the line and micromarring will start to reappear. I haven't noticed it on harder paints, but on softer paints this effect will be apparent after a month or so (and the LSP will be in great shape, too).
 
Mike you must have wrists of steel to use a PC for that long... I find that I enjoy the *feel* of a rotary more than a PC, but I'll break out the PC on paints that are thinning, irreplaceable, or will not finish down hologram-free.
 
Bigpoppa3346 said:
Menzerna *can* and *will* fill on certain paints with a PC. It will look perfect at first and even after an IPA wipe, however, a few washes down the line and micromarring will start to reappear. I haven't noticed it on harder paints, but on softer paints this effect will be apparent after a month or so (and the LSP will be in great shape, too).
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As mentioned in another thread, I've seen this, and it was on a harder clear too (my '04 GMC). The vehicle was detailed (by a very good pro, a member here), with the final polishing being done using 106FF. It was waxed with 476S and then stored in my climate-controlled garage while I drove other vehicles. At that time it looked very, very nice...no holograms, that's for sure.



Over the course of 6-7 months, during which time it was not washed/driven (much)/detailed/anything, previously unseen holograms and other light marring appeared, even though the 476S was still in great shape :nixweiss By the time I decided to put it into service it looked so bad I had to completely redo the detail, and the 476S was *still* in great condition.



No, the above isn't intended as a slam at Menzerna, I don't really have any opinion about the brand as I don't use it. But I've *never* seen holograms appear under still-good LSP like that with any other product combo.
 
Wow, two years since this post, and I still find that the pc will make short work out of most issues with the right pad and polish combination; A little patience and good handling are plusses!
 
lbls1 said:
Wow, two years since this post, and I still find that the pc will make short work out of most issues with the right pad and polish combination; A little patience and good handling are plusses!
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Yeah, now that we have the 3.5" PFW pads (and the 4" Edge yellow and blue wool) there shouldn't be much that *can't* be done via PC. Doesn't even take very long. Very different from how things were a few years ago.



Well, there are those stupid-soft clears I hear about, that can supposedly only be done via rotary (not that I'd put up with *that*, but then I'm not a pro either).
 
Yup. Just the right pad size and aggressiveness, and speed depending on the stubborness of the issue.



You also have to learn when *enough is enough*, as you don't want to risk thinning out too much of your clear with excessive polishing (unless you're getting rid of the car or don't mind repainting).
 
lbls1 said:
..You also have to learn when *enough is enough*, as you don't want to risk thinning out too much of your clear with excessive polishing....
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Yeah, I agree, but...heh heh, I dunno how well that idea's ever gonna catch on around here ;)
 
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