Another Headlight Sealant thread--hopefully this one will generate some answers

Wow that's a real UV curing light right there. Can you buy the bulbs separate and assemble your own unit, or is there more to the light assembly than just the bulb and power source? Also I wonder if you can find JUST the sealant from lenzsaver or if anybody sells a similar formula. I already have all my own materials--the only thing i'm missing is the sealant.
 
The bulb itself is pricey. And making your own - which can be done - probably

will be too time consuming. Look on Ebay or even Craigslist for a used model.



Try a few approaches and see what works best for you. Don't have to be limited

to just one. Basically, you have 3 choices/offers; polish, clear or (and) film.



Precuts:

XPEL Head Light Protection



I would get the film and cut them as needed.
 
Nice thanks flashtime. I think I will just let my customers know that they need to maintain their headlights. A coat of quality wax every 4 to 6 months should do it, or every time they have their car detailed. When I'm in the green I'll look into offering other services like film and solaray coating.
 
I have been offering all 3 methods as well, it all depends on what the customer wants spend.............



6 Step headlight lens restoral seal with LSP



options as follows..



1) Wrap with PPF

2) Paint with UV top coat........





I have found that for the vehicles I maintain on a regular weekly basis the correction without options, just a 6 step correction has lasted over 1 1/2 years with regular application of LSP on lenses.



Here is a sample of my headlightlens restoral which I have posted in the past.....



YouTube - Headlight Lens Restoration on a 2002 V.W. Jetta by Innovative Detailing





Here is my new webblog that I have been putting together on my down time.



Headlight Lens Restoral
 
I just discussed this very issue with the body shop I recommend to my customers. Just like mini1 suggested, have the body shop clear them afterwards. They shoot clear everyday and you can work it into their line up. The body shop I use charges $75.00 to polish and clear them. This is per set even! I charge $50.00 per headlight to polish without being able to clear them!
 
Thanks for the heads up Darren...Unfortunately I would be hard pressed to get people to take their cars in and spend another 75 bucks. If it were my car I would consider it for sure!



I just bought Klasse AIO and Klasse SG, however I didn't realize that Klasse SG is ONLY for painted surfaces. Somebody in a different thread recommended Klasse AIO/SG so I bought both. Can the SG be used on headlights?
 
Before buffing, wetsand the headlights with 1000 grit sand paper to remove dings. Then smooth it with 2000.

While buffing, during each stage, reduce your buffer to about 1500 rpms and go over the headlights. Then apply wax to them as you do the rest of the car.

Just go over them every time you buff/wax your car and they will be maintained.



DO NOT CLEARCOAT!

Chips will be visible at just about 2k miles. Eventually the clear will start to peel away. It can not properly adhere to the plastic.

Cleaning up the inevitable mess from this will be very stressful.





Personally, I would not bother with any other sort of protection.

Your customers will not appreciate the job as much as you will, and restoring to better than factory condition seems a little unnecessary.
 
Thanks SlantS. I have Klasse AIO and SG on the way. Should arrive tomorrow. I will be using this and advising my customers to wax their headlights after 8 months and every 6 months from then on. I have everything I need now to start my business. Here is my final setup:



Menzerna Super Intense Polish

Menzerna Finishing Polish

Porter Cable 7428 rotary

orange medium cut pads

white pads

Klasse AIO and Klasse SG for finish sealant

Mothers washing soap to pre-clean the headlights

Meg's 1000, 1500 and 2500 grit wet-sandpapers

Mothers wax spray to clean up around the lights

Many-a-polishing cloth ;)



That is all! Think I'll be able to do a decent job? Been thinking about 600 grit for those REALLY tough jobs...
 
Some headlights, like the ones found on 2000 > Jeep Grand Cherokees, have a top layer that must be completely sanded away before moving to the final stages.



I have used 600 grit, but working your way back to a smooth surface will take nearly an hour. And you may want to remove the headlights.



Try to remember that not all headlights can be fixed.



Take Kia headlights for example. They crack and fade all the way through.
 
DO NOT CLEARCOAT!

Chips will be visible at just about 2k miles. Eventually the clear will start to peel away. It can not properly adhere to the plastic.

Cleaning up the inevitable mess from this will be very stressful.
Click to expand...



You're not correct. Clear does adhere quite well when the panels - headlamps

too - are properly prepped. This is true.
 
Flashtime said:
You're not correct. Clear does adhere quite well when the panels - headlamps

too - are properly prepped. This is true.
Click to expand...



I don't feel like having a debate. Good luck with your clear coated headlights in about 4 years.
 
SlantS said:
I don't feel like having a debate. Good luck with your clear coated headlights in about 4 years.
Click to expand...



well i think 4 years is pretty good. i mean i have seen some 2007 autos with horrible looking headlights. and thats only 3 years and factory protected
 
There is no debate. Your experience is entirely your own but not necessarily

factual. It's not. And to claim it as such is wrong when there's overwhelming

evidence/proof otherwise. Many things to take into consideration; the prep,

materials, location, driving habits, maintenance, etc.
 
I have always been under the impression that clearing headlights has NO protection from UV rays.



True or False??
Click to expand...



UV inhibitors are the most expensive ingredient in clears. Not all clears are the

same. Prices range anywhere from $60 to $600 plus for a gallon kit... It's

mostly false.
 
I don't know if I'm the only one here that thinks that maybe Optimum's opti-coating might be the ideal product to coat headlights.



I haven't used opti-coating, but I believe it has been tested for a few years on many vehicles.
 
Ahhh, debates are so fun...and time consuming, and did I mention fun! But this is how we learn. So many cars, so many products, so many methods. We all have to figure out what works in our world.

As with anything; there are so many variables to any given problem we are trying to solve. What may work in the moment, may end up not working long term. When you pick up one end of the stick, the other end follows. When I talked to my body shop guy about clearing the headlights, we never discussed how these will wear long term. I assume that if done correctly, (that being the key word here) the clear will be able to wear and be maintained just like the clear on your paint. Once again, just like detailers, body shops are not all created equal.
 
Just received my Klasse AIO and Klasse SG in the mail. Can I use slightly soapy water on the "damp cloth" required for application of these products? Or should it just be straight water?



Oh yah and can I just rince my pads with soapy water then regular water after use?
 
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