Am I using HD Polish the right way?

[Nav45]

I'm starting to learn how to use a DA and have been paint correcting my car for the past few weeks using HD Polish. I believe there has been quite a difference in some sections, lesser so in others. I've been using HD Polish with a DA orbital machine using medium cutting pads.

The way I prime the pad is to apply 5 small drops and then touch the small section of the paint I will work on. I then use fast movement to spread the polish. Then I proceed to do the section slowly, applying firm pressure. After that, I usually apply 3 drops and work another section or so. Then I move on to a different pad because the pad I'm using gets dusty. (The brush that I used seemed to damage the pads so I stopped using it). I'm not sure if this is the most effective way or not. I have seen improvements in the car but I feel I can do better.

My goal is to remove the vast majority of swirls out of the car. After a closer look, there are more swirls present than I thought so I'm thinking my technique needs work. I'm tempted with using a compound but I think I would like to stick with HD Polish and continue working at it.

I would appreciate any tips so I can look more closely at my technique and the way I'm using the product. Thank you.

 

[4u2nvinmtl]

I would try a more aggressive polish (or pad) then step up to a compound if needed.

Some questions that might help you get more responses:
- What DA are you using?
- Which pad are you using (make model)?
- What make and model car is it (different thicknesses and hardness for each manufacturer and in some cases per car or panel)?
- Any Pictures?

 

[pwaug]

You seem to be doing things correctly as far as the HD Polish is concerned ie not too much polish. What speed are you using on the DA? I typically use 5 or 6 on hard VW paint. When you say "medium cutting pad" are you referring to orange? I have great results with a B&S orange on the hard VW paint, but the marring is light wash marring. HD Polish is pad dependent so you can always step up to a more aggressive pad if you have to. Also, be patient--perhaps a couple more passes will do the trick. If you're trying to do the correction with fewer passes perhaps you need HD Adapt-a mild compound.

As far as cleaning the pad--I use a denture brush from the Dollar store--it's quite stiff and causes no damage to my B&S pads as well as a towel after every section. You shouldn't have to be replacing the pad after every section.

There a couple of great links here-- trouble shooting and cleaning your pad on the fly.

Car detailing articles by Mike Phillips - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum

 

[Rsurfer]

Work a small 18" X 18" area with slow arm speed ( 1" per second).

 

[Accumulator]

Doing serious correction on most paints just takes a more aggressive approach, and a lot more time, than people usually expect.

Even with very aggressive products and (brand-new) aggressive pads, it can *still* take longer than one might expect.

 

[Accumulator]

... You shouldn't have to be replacing the pad after every section...

I don't disagree, but I'd rather somebody swap pads frequently than either 1) use a loaded-up/clogged/glazed-over one, or 2) work too hard at on-the-fly-cleaning. I've sometimes used a *LOT* of pads on a correction, simply because it was quick and easy (if pricey).

 

[Nav45]

I would try a more aggressive polish (or pad) then step up to a compound if needed.

Some questions that might help you get more responses:
- What DA are you using?
- Which pad are you using (make model)?
- What make and model car is it (different thicknesses and hardness for each manufacturer and in some cases per car or panel)?
- Any Pictures?

4u2n,

-It's a Griot's Garage orbital
-I have various Buff N Shine pads. I mostly use the orange pads
-It's a 2008 Mazda 3

I will post a picture soon. What aggressive polish do you use? I appreciate it.

You seem to be doing things correctly as far as the HD Polish is concerned ie not too much polish. What speed are you using on the DA? I typically use 5 or 6 on hard VW paint. When you say "medium cutting pad" are you referring to orange? I have great results with a B&S orange on the hard VW paint, but the marring is light wash marring. HD Polish is pad dependent so you can always step up to a more aggressive pad if you have to. Also, be patient--perhaps a couple more passes will do the trick. If you're trying to do the correction with fewer passes perhaps you need HD Adapt-a mild compound.

As far as cleaning the pad--I use a denture brush from the Dollar store--it's quite stiff and causes no damage to my B&S pads as well as a towel after every section. You shouldn't have to be replacing the pad after every section.

There a couple of great links here-- trouble shooting and cleaning your pad on the fly.

Car detailing articles by Mike Phillips - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum

pwaug, I'm using the B&S orange pad. I think I will try again and see how it goes. If the swirls are still there, I might step it up to a more aggressive polish/compound though I prefer not to. I have the Ultimate Compound so I'm wondering if that's the way to go if my next session doesn't do it or another polish?

For the denture brush, do you simply hold it against the middle/outer part of the pad while the DA is spinning? I tried that with a pad cleaning brush and it did some damage to the pads.

Work a small 18" X 18" area with slow arm speed ( 1" per second).

I try to stay within a limited area. I will try to slow it down too but if I slow it down too much then dusting happens because of the longer working time. I think I may need to get more pads or learn how to clean them properly. Thanks.

 

[Nav45]

Doing serious correction on most paints just takes a more aggressive approach, and a lot more time, than people usually expect.

Even with very aggressive products and (brand-new) aggressive pads, it can *still* take longer than one might expect.

I heard someone say that it took him 6 months to fully paint correct his car and that one should not expect to do it in a weekend. Haha, I thought I could do it. Now a couple of weeks later I'm figuring out that isn't the case. But it's fine. I'd rather do it slowly and learn from the whole experience. I'm going to try not to go the more aggressive route but if the next session doesn't produce results, I might step it up.

I don't disagree, but I'd rather somebody swap pads frequently than either 1) use a loaded-up/clogged/glazed-over one, or 2) work too hard at on-the-fly-cleaning. I've sometimes used a *LOT* of pads on a correction, simply because it was quick and easy (if pricey).

I have 9 orange pads that are still wet even when I leave them out in the sun for several hours. I've also got some white B&S ones too that I could use. I'm thinking for a non-professional, this is enough pads; though often times, I do wish I had more

 

[Accumulator]

Nav45- I trust you first blotted/squeezed the pads somewhat dry using a cotton towel...

Sounds like another good reason to buy an air compressor! Blowing pads (somewhat) clean, blowing them (somewhat) dry, along with all the other stuff a compressor is handy (or essential) for.

 

[pwaug]

pwaug, I'm using the B&S orange pad. I think I will try again and see how it goes. If the swirls are still there, I might step it up to a more aggressive polish/compound though I prefer not to. I have the Ultimate Compound so I'm wondering if that's the way to go if my next session doesn't do it or another polish?

For the denture brush, do you simply hold it against the middle/outer part of the pad while the DA is spinning? I tried that with a pad cleaning brush and it did some damage to the pads.

I hold the brush at a slight angle (tilted the opposite way of rotation if you know what I mean) so that it doesn't get caught on the pad while it is spinning on speed 3-4 and move the brush across the surface of the pad. I also then use a MF towel bunched up and hold it against the spinning pad. Never had either cause problems with the pad.

After cleaning my pads and rinsing very well I squeeze out as much water as I can (no twisting of the pad) then lay them Velcro up inbetween mulitple layers of an old terry towel on the floor--then stand on each one for a second or two--Then air dry on an open rack. By next morning they are totally dry. I think some put them in the dryer on very low heat.

 

[silverfox]

That's why I love using MF pads whenever possible...its so easy to clean then between panels with compressed air, plus once primed, you don't need to add much product which in turn doesn't clog the pad like foam. You can just keep going and going. Foam pads are much more wasteful and time consuming to work with imo, but unfortunately foam pads are better suited to most polishing.

 

[Nav45]

Nav45- I trust you first blotted/squeezed the pads somewhat dry using a cotton towel...

Sounds like another good reason to buy an air compressor! Blowing pads (somewhat) clean, blowing them (somewhat) dry, along with all the other stuff a compressor is handy (or essential) for.

I squeeze the pads but do not use a towel. I'm going to have to do that. These thick pads take almost a week to dry because I'm apparently not removing enough water out of them. Thanks for the air compressor suggestion. This product can have multiple uses besides car-related ones.

I hold the brush at a slight angle (tilted the opposite way of rotation if you know what I mean) so that it doesn't get caught on the pad while it is spinning on speed 3-4 and move the brush across the surface of the pad. I also then use a MF towel bunched up and hold it against the spinning pad. Never had either cause problems with the pad.

After cleaning my pads and rinsing very well I squeeze out as much water as I can (no twisting of the pad) then lay them Velcro up inbetween mulitple layers of an old terry towel on the floor--then stand on each one for a second or two--Then air dry on an open rack. By next morning they are totally dry. I think some put them in the dryer on very low heat.

I might look into that cleaning method. Interesting that it has worked very well for you.

I've actually been twisting the pad a bit sometimes :redface:. I was also thinking this isn't really good for the pad. Nice approach you just mentioned - I will have to try that. Not sure if I want to experiment with the dryer yet, haha. Thanks.

That's why I love using MF pads whenever possible...its so easy to clean then between panels with compressed air, plus once primed, you don't need to add much product which in turn doesn't clog the pad like foam. You can just keep going and going. Foam pads are much more wasteful and time consuming to work with imo, but unfortunately foam pads are better suited to most polishing.

I've still got a lot to learn when using foam pads so I'm not even going to try the MF pads for a while. Do these offer more of a cut and faster working time than foam pads? Sounds like good products and more user friendly. Thanks.

 

[4u2nvinmtl]

I will post a picture soon. What aggressive polish do you use?

I use Meguiars (M205 to polish and M101 to compound). I normally use M101 for scratches and M205 for swirls. The only difference between the two is, how my fingernail catches the scratch when inspecting. The more my nail catches on the scratches the more I lean towards M101, but I always do a test spot of M205 just in case it's enough.

I've also tried to polish with KAIO but found it doesn't do much other than clean the paint (others have had some success polishing with KAIO likely on softer paints).

 

[pwaug]

Nav45--I don't know if it's a wise idea to use something so aggressive as 101 while you're still learnging technique etc. and without a paint thickness guage. As I remember you have a Mazda and they typically seem to have thin clearcoat from what others have posted. For my first 2 or 3 machine polishing trys I use HD Speed (an all in one) just to play it safe then moved on to a polish, then to a compound as I got more experience. Maybe I'm just too cautious.

 

[Accumulator]

That's why I love using MF pads whenever possible...its so easy to clean then between panels with compressed air, plus ..[all sorts of other good points]...

Yes indeed! The combo of MF Cutting Disks and compressed air is simply great. I still finish out with foam, but that's just me.

I've still got a lot to learn when using foam pads so I'm not even going to try the MF pads for a while. Do these offer more of a cut and faster working time than foam pads? Sounds like good products and more user friendly. Thanks

If you don't mind spending the $, I can't think of any real downside to switching to the MF Cutting Disks. Plenty safe/etc., no worries there. In *some* instances I do better serious correction via the maroon foam cutting pads, but I suspect that's just because I have more experience with those as opposed to the MF. The MF Cutting Disks (I've only used the Meguiar's ones) really do work great and they run *cooler* than foam so they're actually safer with regard to several potential "oops!"-factors.

I've also tried to polish with KAIO but found it doesn't do much other than clean the paint (others have had some success polishing with KAIO likely on softer paints).

I always find it surprising when people claim to get *any* correction out of KAIO; must be from the pad itself as KAIO has proven fuctionally nonabrasive for me, even on *VERY* soft single-stage black.

 

[JustJesus]

I didn't read most of the replies, but here's something from my personal notes collection, that I got from another thread on HD Polish. Mr. David F wrote the following (OH, and I used this technique last sunday and I was happy with the turnout):



**Take a fresh, clean pad of your choice. Again, if this pad hasn't been completely cleaned prior to use, old product residue could still be in the pad and cause dust to fly everywhere. Very important to get this off on the right foot.

**(initial application/prime)Apply 4-5 small drops of product throughout the outer edges of the pad. This doesn't mean the center and this doesn't mean to use water, QD or anything else.

**On medium speed (speed 4 or 5 on a GG for example) work the product in a 2 by 2 foot area using slow arm speed and moderate downward pressure.

**Make 2 to 4 passes. A pass is considered 1 back and forth and 1 up and down movement.

**Wipe & inspect

**Clean pad with either a firm pad brush, compressed air and/or towel.

**For reapplication, apply 3-4 more drop on outer edge of pad.

**Swap to fresh pad after 2-3 full sized panels or when pad begins to be over-saturated with product.



NOTE:

*This product does not break down. You don't need to work this product very long due to the non-diminishing abrasive technology. If you make too many passes, the oils will dry up and dust could result. If you don't clean your pads after each pass session, dust could result.

*There isn't a need, nor was this product designed to be used with water, QD or any other liquid to assist with this products performance.

*Keep your bottle closed after use. Store in a cool, dry environment.

*****IMPORTANT*****

*DO NOT overly prime pad.

When using HD Polishing compounds in sunny, outdoor or hot environments/surfaces:

1-Use a little more product

2-Work smaller sections/areas

3-Clean pads well/frequently

4-Be mindful of long work times

 

[Accumulator]

Heh heh, I love David's "...this doesn't mean to [do something other than what I just said].."

 

[JustJesus]

^
Yes. That cracked me up.

 

[ZL1Mark]

Yes indeed!


If you don't mind spending the $, I can't think of any real downside to switching to the MF Cutting Disks. Plenty safe/etc., no worries there. In *some* instances I do better serious correction via the maroon foam cutting pads, but I suspect that's just because I have more experience with those as opposed to the MF. The MF Cutting Disks (I've only used the Meguiar's ones) really do work great and they run *cooler* than foam so they're actually safer with regard to several potential "oops!"-factors.

The MF cutting discs definitely have much more potential to remove defects compared to the maroon discs.

I didn't read most of the replies, but here's something from my personal notes collection, that I got from another thread on HD Polish. Mr. David F wrote the following (OH, and I used this technique last sunday and I was happy with the turnout):



**Take a fresh, clean pad of your choice. Again, if this pad hasn't been completely cleaned prior to use, old product residue could still be in the pad and cause dust to fly everywhere. Very important to get this off on the right foot.

**(initial application/prime)Apply 4-5 small drops of product throughout the outer edges of the pad. This doesn't mean the center and this doesn't mean to use water, QD or anything else.

**On medium speed (speed 4 or 5 on a GG for example) work the product in a 2 by 2 foot area using slow arm speed and moderate downward pressure.

**Make 2 to 4 passes. A pass is considered 1 back and forth and 1 up and down movement.

**Wipe & inspect

**Clean pad with either a firm pad brush, compressed air and/or towel.

**For reapplication, apply 3-4 more drop on outer edge of pad.

**Swap to fresh pad after 2-3 full sized panels or when pad begins to be over-saturated with product.



NOTE:

*This product does not break down. You don't need to work this product very long due to the non-diminishing abrasive technology. If you make too many passes, the oils will dry up and dust could result. If you don't clean your pads after each pass session, dust could result.

*There isn't a need, nor was this product designed to be used with water, QD or any other liquid to assist with this products performance.

*Keep your bottle closed after use. Store in a cool, dry environment.

*****IMPORTANT*****

*DO NOT overly prime pad.

When using HD Polishing compounds in sunny, outdoor or hot environments/surfaces:

1-Use a little more product

2-Work smaller sections/areas

3-Clean pads well/frequently

4-Be mindful of long work times

Great advice.

 

[Accumulator]

The MF cutting discs definitely have much more potential to remove defects compared to the maroon discs...

Oddly enough, I really have had a few rare instances where that was *not* the case and things went faster with the foam. Yeah, I know..who woulda thunk it?!?