Am I missing Anything

A

ap300c

New member
Hello, I am new to the detailing world and have been poking around here for a week or so reading everything I can to get started. Heck, before coming here, I though Turtle Wax ice polish and their liquid clay bar were advanced, boy was I wrong.



I am not trying to win any awards, just trying to keep my daily driven (during the summer) car looking the best it can. If it matters, I have a 2007 Inferno Red Crystal Pearl Chrysler 300 SRT8. It stays in the garage at night and gets washed a few times a week followed up with Meguiar's Ultimate detailer as needed for water spots and such.



So far, I have purchased:



Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital (direct from Griot's)

5" backing plate

2 each, orange, white and black Lake Country 5.5" pads



Meguiar's M105

Meguiar's M205

Meguiars M34

Collinite 845



200g clay (DI) plus Poorboy's Spray & Whipe

Chemical Guys Bug & Tar Remover

Poorboy's World Leather Stuff

303 Aerospace Protectant



12 Cobra all purpose microfiber towels

3 Cobra Miracle Towels (for polish and wax removal)

12 foam wax applicators

1 Terry cloth applicator (for the leather seats)





My plan is: wash, clay bar, 105 (orange), 205 (white), 845 (black) removing all polish/sealants by hand. Any thoughts of additional steps?



Other than the obvious did I miss something, my only other aprehension involves using the 105. Overall, I think my paint looks great, with one small scratch near the sunroof. Should I skip the 105 and see how it looks with the 205 plus the sealant? I am planning on doing another round in October before winter (in case this car gets out of the gargage before spring).



Any and all thoughts, recomendations or ideas are appreciated.



Thanks,



Tony
 
MDRX8 said:
Tony, how about your rims and tires. Duragloss 253 is great for tires. Have fun.
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The rims are clear coated so I was simply planning on trying to hand polish them. I guess I forgot about the tires, thanks for the suggestion.
 
GatorJ said:
The product is fine if you use it according to the directions. It's not fair to totally misuse a product and then blame it for the results.
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Totally agree, just giving a heads up just to be careful...
 
ap300c said:
..

My plan is: wash, clay bar, 105 (orange), 205 (white), 845 (black) removing all polish/sealants by hand. Any thoughts of additional steps?
Click to expand...



That should be fine, and I commend you for not overcomplicating things.



Be careful buffing off the M105 residue as it remains abrasive. Prime your pads properly and use the right technique with those products (don't spread M105 around before you "do the work" and don't work large areas, keep 'em small).



If (maybe a big "if") you get oily pseudo-holograms from the M205, either use IPA or do a Dawn wash.

Other than the obvious did I miss something, my only other aprehension involves using the 105. Overall, I think my paint looks great, with one small scratch near the sunroof. Should I skip the 105 and see how it looks with the 205 plus the sealant? I am planning on doing another round in October before winter (in case this car gets out of the gargage before spring).
Click to expand...



Plan on using the M105 on the obviously serious marring, but otherwise sure, see if the M205 is sufficient. I wouldn't want to repolish again this year (so watch that wash technique ;) ) but redo the 845 before it needs done, stay one step ahead of its degradation.



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!
 
Accumulator said:


That should be fine, and I commend you for not overcomplicating things.



Be careful buffing off the M105 residue as it remains abrasive. Prime your pads properly and use the right technique with those products (don't spread M105 around before you "do the work" and don't work large areas, keep 'em small).



If (maybe a big "if") you get oily pseudo-holograms from the M205, either use IPA or do a Dawn wash.





Plan on using the M105 on the obviously serious marring, but otherwise sure, see if the M205 is sufficient. I wouldn't want to repolish again this year (so watch that wash technique ;) ) but redo the 845 before it needs done, stay one step ahead of its degradation.



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!
Click to expand...



When you say don't spread M105 around, how is the best technique for getting the product on the paint without it splattering all over. I had a horrible time with M105 drying up on me WAY to quick so maybe I'll try another technique when I need to redo it (as of now I just plan on redoing M205 to sharpen the paint). Any links you can send that shows what you mean?
 
jayhkr said:
When you say don't spread M105 around, how is the best technique for getting the product on the paint without it splattering all over. I had a horrible time with M105 drying up on me WAY to quick so maybe I'll try another technique when I need to redo it (as of now I just plan on redoing M205 to sharpen the paint). Any links you can send that shows what you mean?
Click to expand...



I'll try to explain it as best I can, but I bet you're just overthinking it (and I hardly *EVER say that!!)...



Prime the pad ala KMB, no excess, but fully "loaded" with each pore having some M105 in it (but not enough to "clog" the pores).



Shouldn't get *any* splatter if you prime the pad right and have the pad pressed against the paint when you turn on the polisher (right at speed 6 from the start).



Set the polisher on the paint. Turn it on. Work a much smaller area than whatever you're doing now, maybe 1 foot square. Move it across L-R, R-L, Up-Down, Down-Up, Diagonal R-L, Diagonal L-R. Move it at a speed where the polish isn't quite dry after those six movements, but if it dries faster *STOP* and buff off the residue while it's still not quite dry.



Adjust the speed/size of area to work with the amount of product you have on the pad and how fast it flashes, but have "smaller area, fewer movements" in mind and work up from that perspective.
 
Accumulator said:
I'll try to explain it as best I can, but I bet you're just overthinking it (and I hardly *EVER say that!!)...



Prime the pad ala KMB, no excess, but fully "loaded" with each pore having some M105 in it (but not enough to "clog" the pores).



Shouldn't get *any* splatter if you prime the pad right and have the pad pressed against the paint when you turn on the polisher (right at speed 6 from the start).



Set the polisher on the paint. Turn it on. Work a much smaller area than whatever you're doing now, maybe 1 foot square. Move it across L-R, R-L, Up-Down, Down-Up, Diagonal R-L, Diagonal L-R. Move it at a speed where the polish isn't quite dry after those six movements, but if it dries faster *STOP* and buff off the residue while it's still not quite dry.



Adjust the speed/size of area to work with the amount of product you have on the pad and how fast it flashes, but have "smaller area, fewer movements" in mind and work up from that perspective.
Click to expand...



:thx This helps a lot. I will give it a go on my roof, which I still havn't finished yet.
 
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