alternatives to Hi-Temp Prep Wash?

P

ptownTSI

New member
So this stuff isn't that expensive but throwing on $14 shipping and a week wait is too long for me. Are there any alternatives to this that cut silicone like it does?
 
CWG doesn't cut oils like prep wash, imo. I hate that prep wash is tough to get but I've still yet to find something that is quite comparable. I like that it is easy to use, requires little to no mechanical action, and works well. There are other oil removers but they all tend to be a little bit of a pain, ime.
 
Product A of the ABC system knocks the heck out of oils, silicones, etc.

That is what it was developed for and it looks like other companies are trying to make something like it.

Grumpy
 
Q1: Just what does a prep wash basically do (i.e does it strip away all wax/sealant/silicone/oils)?



Q2: Do you have to do a regular wash with car shampoo after?
 
Yes. The product A must be followed by at least the "c" detail wash. This product is a neutral shampoo wash, which uses the main ingrediants of any quality hair shampoo.

Just a few other additives to really clean up the surface without being harmful to the paint, trim, etc.

The A product is alkaline, opens the paint pores, removes wax, silicone, light grease (which is similar to wax in chemistry), etc.

After it's wash, the paint film should be neutralized, which is what the C product does.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Product A of the ABC system knocks the heck out of oils, silicones, etc...
Click to expand...



Yeah, "A" works well for this too, but it's more of a conventional wash product. Different means to the same end.



jmsc said:
Q1: Just what does a prep wash basically do (i.e does it strip away all wax/sealant/silicone/oils)?
Click to expand...



Yeah. Note that the PrepWash can be used without rinsing, though many of us do some degree of that anyhow.



Q2: Do you have to do a regular wash with car shampoo after?
Click to expand...



Not really, just a rinse (maybe not even that with the PrepWash). If anything, I'd do a conventional shampoo wash first as (IMO) these products aren't that great with regard to lubricity/encapsulation/stuff that makes for a marring-free wash.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Product A of the ABC system knocks the heck out of oils, silicones, etc.

That is what it was developed for and it looks like other companies are trying to make something like it.

Grumpy
Click to expand...



This is what I use when Im doing full-on projects. Often times, Ill use it before and again after a polish to get any of the remaining oils off the paint. Keep the surface wet, let it dwell for at least 5 mins, do a full rinse, and you're good to go.



Which reminds, that I have to order some more for the spring.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Yes. The product A must be followed by at least the "c" detail wash...After it's wash, the paint film should be neutralized, which is what the C product does.

Grumpy
Click to expand...



Q about that, and no, I'm not being nit-picking smart-@$$ ;)



If the "C" is neutral, does it really neutralize the "A" or does it, uhm....more like "dilute it and wash it away"? I can see how the "B" would neutralize it, but that's 'cause "B" is so acidic :think:



I hadn't thought of the "A" opening the pores of the paint, and that might be a good argument for following it with something as opposed to just rinsing it really well (say, when it's used post-polishing to remove oils/etc.).
 
When we did the Finish Kare 1119/883/118SC system, the instructions required the use of all three.

When I did the much safer "ABC" system, I was able to work with two of the big 3's paint tech engineers and their paint suppliers to get things right.

All of them wanted the paint film to be as "neutral" as possible following the alkaline/acidic parts of the system.

That required the using of the "C" Detail Wash as the final step.

During the FK days, I could not get to these sort of engineers for testing, etc.

Seems the owner of FK had really upset them over the years.

No such concern with ValuGard's team.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham- Yeah, you've impressed me with the need to, uhm...do it properly with the FK stuff ;) If anything, I usually wish the "A" and "B" were a bit more potent (and/but less idiot-proof ;) though, huh?) ).
 
I wouldn't mind if A and B were a bit more potent as well--as long as risk remains low, of course.



It took me two full complete, 3 step washes for me to remove some overspray for the most part, but the system did come through and no damage whatsoever occured to the clear. If it is a better safe/more work than more potent but much more potential to be sorry scenario, I'd opt for keeping ABC just the way it is then.
 
It was never, actually, formulated for paint overspray removal.

The goal was to safely remove ferrous oxide particles, the damaging acids they produce and some other enviormental contaminates.

Very important the the acids produced by the particles are removed/neutralized from the substrate of the paint system.

We found over time that is was fairly good at removing latex overspray if the overspray was not allowed to dry for a year or so on the surface.

Over the years we made some samples of more potent A and B, however when we took them to the paint companies labs, they used their scanning microscopes, etc. indicated that under the right circumstances, damage to the paint's resin system could result.

So, keep it simple, keep it safe, after all the paint system on the body costs more than the metal and it's production of the body.

The later addition of the ValuGard Insect Pad to use while the B is dwelling did make up for not being able to make the B more potent.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
So, keep it simple, keep it safe, after all the paint system on the body costs more than the metal and it's production of the body.
Click to expand...



I'll certainly give an amen to that! :2thumbs:



Safer and smarter always is > riskier and pushing the limits in my book.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top