all you rotary buffs...

central

central

New member
I know you all had some practice/training.

Question is how many cars did you do before you felt "you got it?"

I have about 12 junk cars to practice on, is that suffice enough to get the "I GOT IT" feeling??

thanks

btw, I own a PC, so talking about a rotary buffer.:bigups
 
I only destroyed the paint on one before I stopped using a rotary.:D
Old single stage that was in very bad shape. I found out it was a fine line between shiny paint and no paint.

With the help you have available from some of the people here, I would think you would be fairly proficient after one of those junkers.
You can do a panel, take a look at it and ask questions about anthing you don't feel comfortable with. There are people here that can tell you where you are going wrong and can also tell you what you are doing right.
The guys that are really good with a rotary can do some amazing things with paint.
If you have need of what a rotary can do, it is certainly worth spending some time learning to use one.

Charles
 
what im actually worried about is, once the panel is done... in a few days seeing the burn marks in the paint.

So,
1. do i buff one panal and wash a few days later.

2. do several panels and at different pressure, then check in a day or so.

3. just burn through the paint and see how long it takes to get to the metal. (im sure only a few secs)

4. any advice welcomed :)
 
im learning too im practicing on my neighbors old tore up suburban its looking good i even tried some wetsanding out that turned out real nice. .. i also did the hood on my stepsons 89 jeep with the peeling clearcoat i used p&s clearcut II . medium compound with diminishing abrasives .. i really had to crank it up but i took all the flaky clearcoat off.and got the swirls out with my p.c. using polish then followed up with some creme carnuba on the pc also looks great . i bought a chicago rotary at harbor freight tool for 49.99 with 7 in velcro backing plate included. works just fine. also has speed control on handle like a dewalt . for $8.00 more i got 2 yr warranty .. this is good to learn .. im not going to rotary every car i do but now i have one if needed to get the job done
 
I say this.........Buy a paint gauge. Always know how much paint in on a car before you rotary. I always do every panel. hood and truck.
 
Many people look at using a rotary with the mindset of "How do I avoid burning the paint?"

It's a good question but if you have cars to practice on then what you should do is burn the paint. Thsi way you will see just exactly what it takes for paint to burn. Use various pads, burn the seams and edges and burn the middle of the hood.

This way you can better grasp what a burn looks like, how hot the paint can get before you degrade the top coat and you then learn to avoid that.

As for swirls, well that is really all about the correct product/pad and RPM selection. Try and keep the pad as flat as possible and after buffing a section feel the paint. It should be warm, toasty warm to the touch. If it is hot then you know you are buffing or moving the buffer to slow for the set RPM's.

Heavy paint leveling should be done around 1800 to 2000 RPM's. Really no need to go beyond 1800 really. For swirl removal and light marring set it at about 1200 to 1400 RPM's. Finishing can be done around 1100 to 1000 RPM's.

Anthony
 
I started off with a Dewalt 849 Rotary and was just plain lucky.

I took to the rotary quickly and am just a natural at it.

Never burned or damaged any paint yet, and still use a rotary on most of my projects.


Took me about an hour to figure things out with it on a black car, but I was just one who picked up the rotary, and after about an hour and a half, I was proficient with it.


Don't even have a PC here, but I am considering buying one for kicks.

Either way, 12 cars to practice on should be more than enough.

good luck!
 
Three tips I could give a beginner....
  1. Try sanding some plywood By working with a sanding disk (40-80 grit) attached to the rotary, and working on a piece of plywood, one will be able to see how the groves (swirls when polishing) are laid out when using different areas of the disk as well as help in developing the the proper technique in not gouging (tip the sander at a steep angle and see what happens). Even more important, the proper pressures needed in keeping the surface flat will be gained. It will also help in learning the directional pull that the rotary develops and leaning to work with it, not against it. If you use a 1/2" faced plywood (oak, poplar, maple, etc) it will also simulate the painted surface, and with 40-80 grit paper, you are simulating a heavy compound... see how long it takes to get through the finished layer???
  2. Remove the side handle By removing the side handle and gripping the buffer by the head with ones hand, one will have a lesser chance of tipping the buffer up to the steep angles conducive to heavy swirls, and more chances of keeping it at the desired almost flat position. This will also develop more side to side control in moving the buffer.
  3. Contact a junk yard If you contact a junk yard and explain your purpose, most will have no problems letting you use fenders, doors, hoods, or parts to practice upon until you've built up the confidence to tackle whatever comes your way (of course, leave the sandpaper at home).
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