All Weather Mats Dressing

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imported_Ronin

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How many capfuls of wash do you use per gallon of H20? Zaino instructions call for 2-3 capfulls for every gallon (if I remember correctly). Currently I am using 2-3 capfuls for a 5 gallon pail. Is that enough Z7? Most car wash products instruct users to use too much product (in my opinion) so you run through it faster, hence you buy more. What do you guys think? How much Z7 should I be using for 5 gallons of H20?
 
Now this is something I can sink my teeth in! You are correct. Too much soap per the instructions. Just wing it, maybe about half as much. That's what I do.



For further instructions, let me recite.



I fill two buckets up. Each one has at least 4 gallons of pure, filtered H2O (OK, it's from a hose - a nice hose.) Then, I add to bucket #1 about 4 to 5 caps. I pore it out, so I can't be sure but I am definitely stingy.



Then I insert the sprayer, and make suds. Then wash with a chenile mit and rinse often in bucket #2.



Peace!
 
Interesting. I picked up my zaino and the distributor said 2 capfuls for 3 gallons. He said the stuff would last me at least a year. Haven't tried it yet.
 
I use 3 capfuls for a 5 gallon bucket (with 4-5 gallons of water) and it works great. To get more suds, I put the soap in the empty bucket then fill with water. For less suds, add the soap to the water and agitate. It truly is a good car wash.
 
Most say 1 capful= 1oz of product. When I use my car wash, I acutally take the cap off and pour the wash into the cap and then put it in my bucket.
 
Ok... I use about is 1/64 (?) of the Z-7 bottle in about two gallons. Is this enough? It suds up very nicey.
 
BW,



As long as you are getting plenty of suds, and you are happy with the preformance of the wash, then keep using the same amount you are using.





Adamah,



Since the cap on a bottle of Z7 is smaller, that is why Sal says to use 2-3 cap fulls instead of just one. Most car washes that I have tried you only use 1 capful, which is usually 1 ounce.
 
Hello, all.

Just a technical point. A couple of the above posts talk about "making suds." Just to try to kill an idea that has been going around for years and years: it is unnecessary to "make suds" to make a cleaning product work. In the case of products that are to be mixed with water, all that is necessary is to mix the product with water. Its chemical properties and cleaning power are not affected by spraying water into the bucket and making suds.

If you are spraying the water just to mix, great, but no one should think they are creating cleaning power by the creation of suds. If you would like more details, see my posts at: http://216.147.22.29/forum/showthread.php3?s=&threadid=2763&perpage=15&pagenumber=2 and http://216.147.22.29/forum/showthread.php3?s=&threadid=2763&perpage=15&pagenumber=3

Re amount of Z7 per gallon, I would follow Sal's recommendations. A very slippery solution has a lot of benefits. For economy, I would suggest simply reducing the amount of water you use, which automatically reduces the amount of Z7 you need to use. I can wash my car with 1.5 gallons of water in the soap bucket (using the two bucket system). This would cut your Z7 use by 70%, while avoiding using a dilute concentration of Z7.
 
I respectfully disagree...but not with data, just personal observation/opinion. I think the suds are important. Although the chemical properties of the solution are not different, the physical properties are! While the surfactants in the soap help ensure the dirt can "slide" off the finish of the car with minimal scratching and surface tension, the suds give the dirt a suspending media to further isolate them from the paint. In addition, the suds give a good idea of where the car wash was applied, so as to help in ensuring that there is no areas missed.



I dont think the amount of suds are as important as the surfactant abilities of the soap, but they do help IMO.
 
Hi Yell00ITR -- I can see your point and I am certain that there are probably some benefits, as you describe.

I guess I just don't have evidence that it is that much of a benefit. When you rub a wash mitt over the surface of the car, I think the mitt is in direct contact with the paint, mediated by the cleaning solution, which cannot have much in the way of suds, if only for the fact that you have compressed the mitt and the solution.

But, to put this in perspective, I do not believe there is anything
<em class='bbc'>wrong[/i] with creating suds, so go for it! :)
 
Soap/shampoo has a few things it should do to properly clean any surface.



1. Loosen the friction the dirt has with the surface it is clinging too.



2. Suspend the dirt away from the surface so it can be rinsed away before it adheres to the surface again.



3. The soap must form a hydrodynamic bearing for the physical scrubbing device (mitts or whatever). It is the principle of a liquid under pressure providing a bearing surface for two objects that are moving at different speeds. Hence your mitt's fibers will not touch the paint at the microscopic level hence reduce chances for scratches.



The chemicals in the soap (cleaners, detergents, etc) are the main ingredient and solve item 1. This is for any cleaner or soap may it be 409 or tidy bowl.



Bubbles help with item 2. Preferably smaller bubbles because the bubble surface tension can hold heavier objects. On car finishes we want to float the dirt over the surface so as not to scratch. Hence nice mitts and tiny bubbles.



The viscosity of the soap helps with item 3 along with the chemicals compostionl. Every try to scrub your paint when your hand is loaded with raw soap? Not easy till you rub all the soap away.



OK I am done being geeky now!
 
darbh (and everyone else)

suds by my washing method (foaming disperser method) serve two purposes only.

1) the foam sits on the paint. I go around the car and put foam on bugs and other visable dirt and let it sit for a bit. Soapy water will sheet off my car.

2) it allows you to use less product. I use about 1/2 of an ounce of Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo to Clean my whole car panel by panel.

But granted that's it. If you're not out to use less product or let it sit on your paint, then foam is not your thing.

The interesting point might be to see how well it would work in a foaming dispenser.
 
I have all weather mats for both of our Volvos and finally got a chance to clean the coating of salt off of them today. But, they always seem kind of dull, but I don't want to put anything on them that will make them slick, but I would like them to look a little nicer. Any suggestions?
 
That's always been a bit of a problem, because, as you said, you don't want them slick.

Almost every dressing I've tried on my all-weather rubber floormats, made them slick.

BUT.... after MANY different dressings, I found that I could spray them lightly with 303, then massage it in with a microfiber towel until dry and they weren't slick.

They were nice and black and not slick at all!

Here's a "How To" thread I did on cleaning and dressing rubber floormats....

http://truthindetailing.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=990
 
Thanks Bill, after clicking on that I remember reading that when you posted it, but I forgot what you used. Do you have a local source for the 303? I was actually trying to find some of that the other day at a couple places.

I had those exact floormats in my GP's as well, I never could get the gray GRAND PRIX lettering to look clean.

These Volvo mats have a carpet type material where your heal sits, so that helps with traction a bit (you know Volvo and their safety).
 
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