Alcohol solution: application and dilution

I just ordered New Car Prep. I'll have access to a brand new car to use it on right on a dealer lot soon.
 
Bill D said:
I just ordered New Car Prep. I'll have access to a brand new car to use it on right on a dealer lot soon.
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Why a car prep on a new car. It doesnt sound the best place to try a car prep... or I'm I wrong. a new car is on bare paint right ??
 
You need to at least remove the Rapgard ( using the solvent-New Car Prep, Prepsol, etc), wash,clay, inspect for paint defects, correct them and protect (wax/seal).
 
Is Distilled white vinegar more better and effective than using ISA??? I hear its great for water spots & can remove LSps.
 
mystickid said:
Is Distilled white vinegar more better and effective than using ISA??? I hear its great for water spots & can remove LSps.
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Thats a good one... But if I think about it, I will guess that vinegar will leave to much residue on the paint compare to alcohol(which dont or almost).



Any expert?
 
Yeah I bet. Some might stray away it not only because of that but also because although weak, it is acidic.
 
I use vinigar to clean the mortar out of my glass level bubbles, if that says anything....



It disoves it in around 3 minutes with repeat applications. Also have used it to remove stuck on mortar on the paint.
 
Bill D said:
Yeah I bet. Some might stray away it not only because of that but also because although weak, it is acidic.
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Bill, vinegar is a very weak acid and even if poured directly on your hood and left there for a long time it would not harm modern automotive paint. It may not even affect (fully strip) sealants like Z2 and SG without a prolonged contact time and much surface agitation and reapplication with a cloth.



I've heard car dealers recommend products like CLR and Limeaway to remove severe water spots. These products do contain mixtures of stronger acids like sulfamic, glycolic, and citric acids. I would not recommend trying these on auto paint water spots unless you have a good acid neutralizing shampoo or plain old baking soda mixed with water to rinse these products away. I would be more concerned about metal trim pieces or coated plastics being affected by these stronger acids than the paint itself, though.



Not to sound smug, but yes, I am a chemist.
 
Yes true. I'm not sure of the specific reasons or even of an "official explanation" of why IPA is the standard rather than vinegar. :nixweiss



With regards to the severe spotting, industrial fall out, that sort of stuff, the 3 step decontamination wash process from Finish Kare and Auto Int's Valugard have received press here. One uses a difference blend of acids than the other.



I don't recall the exact acids but it would be great to have a chemist's commentary on these three step wash systems and which, if any, seems "more preferable".
 
Bill D said:
Yes true. I'm not sure of the specific reasons or even of an "official explanation" of why IPA is the standard rather than vinegar. :nixweiss



With regards to the severe spotting, industrial fall out, that sort of stuff, the 3 step decontamination wash process from Finish Kare and Auto Int's Valugard have received press here. One uses a difference blend of acids than the other.



I don't recall the exact acids but it would be great to have a chemist's commentary on these three step wash systems and which, if any, seems "more preferable".
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Bill D--Funny you should mention the decon wash process and Finish Kare. I just placed an order from FK last week and I am awaiting my sample decon kit. My black Audi is in need of a complete strip and the last vinegar treatment I gave it only removed some superficial water spots. The finish is also very rough from the chemical plant fallout from our silicas production unit--can't park far enough away. I'm hoping the FK decon kit lives up to my expectations. I know others had mentioned using the Auto Int decon kit, but I could never find any detailed info about it here or from their website. Maybe it's just me being lazy, but in this internet age if you don't clearly present your products and their directions for use, it is reason enough for me to move on. I could never figure out which of their products was in the Auto Int decon kit, or what chemicals they were using either.



If I get the chance I will try to post about my experience using the FK decon kit.
 
So how much alcohol/water would one need to do a car the size of a Porsche (one application)? I'm going to give it a try but need to know how much alcohol to buy.
 
Buy enough so you can fill between a 24 to 32 oz bottle with IPA:water. This is going to be enough for a full detail plus a good amount left over for that size car for sure.
 
Had to raise his thread back up for a quick question,



Do we strip the protection on a car via ISA/Water before or after claying the car????

Thanx,
 
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